Rose from Rosthorn-Friedmann

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Rose von Rosthorn-Friedmann ,
Gustav Klimt 1901

Rose von Rosthorn-Friedmann (* February 12, 1864 in Prävali ; † January 13, 1919 in Baden near Vienna ; also just called Rose von Rosthorn or Rose Friedmann ) went down in the history of mountaineering as the first woman to climb a summit .

Life

She came from the Rosthorn entrepreneurial dynasty and was a second cousin of the physician Alfons von Rosthorn .

Rose von Rosthorn was married twice. Her first husband was the then legal advisor to the Austrian State Railways, Bruno Wagner von Freynsheim , who later became director of the Northern Railway. A daughter named Dora (* 1885) comes from this connection.

In 1886 she married the Austrian industrialist and alpinist Louis Philipp Friedmann (1861–1939). The following year (1887) their daughter Marie Alexandrine was born. The couple was respected in Viennese society by playwrights ( Hugo von Hofmannsthal ), writers ( Arthur Schnitzler ) and artists. Like Gustav Klimt , who immortalized Rose von Rosthorn-Friedmann in one of his most famous pictures.

During the First World War Rose worked as a nurse in a Viennese military hospital and was infected with fatal typhoid fever ( Salmonella typhi ), of which she died on January 13, 1919 at the age of 54 in the Gutenbrunn sanatorium in Baden near Vienna. Hugo von Hofmannsthal wrote a long letter to the widower, in which he not only expressed the expressive beauty, but also the intelligence and strength of this extraordinary woman.

Mountaineering achievements

Watzmann
Thurwieserspitze, around 1890
  • In 1881, when she was still young, she was the first woman to climb the Watzmann- Ostwand ( 2653  m ), the highest rock face in the Eastern Alps with a height of 1800 m, and made a name for herself as an alpinist.
  • On July 22nd, 1888, Rose Friedmann was the first woman to climb the 3652 meter high Thurwieserspitze in the Ortler group together with the guide J. Pichler .

literature

  • Anton Schaller : The Wertheim Clinic: A History of the Second University Women's Clinic in Vienna , 1992, page 86 excerpt from Google Books
  • Gustav Klimt, Toni Stooss, Christoph Doswald: Gustav Klimt , 1992, page 118
  • Louis Friedmann: The Ortler Group. In: The development of the Eastern Alps. Volume 2, German and Austrian Alpine Association Excerpt from Google Books
  • Harry Muré: Jeanne Immink The woman who climbed into the clouds . Tyrolia, Innsbruck 2010, ISBN 978-3-7022-3075-3 (German, 272 pages, person index Rose Friedmann).

Movie

  • “... just a kind of intoxication, of mountain intoxication” - Arthur Schnitzler's Bergfreunde. ( ORF series Land der Berge ), Austria, 1999, director: Lutz Maurer

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. a b c Georg Gaugusch : Who once was . The Jewish upper middle class of Vienna 1800-1938 AK. Amalthea Verlag, 2011, ISBN 978-3-85002-750-2 , pp. 785 .
  2. He later married Mathilde von Lützow. Her son Helmut Camillo Wagner-Freynsheim became a well-known architect (see web link Architects Lexicon Helmut Camillo Wagner-Freynsheim. In: Architects Lexicon Vienna 1770–1945. Published by the Architekturzentrum Wien . Vienna 2007.)
  3. a b c see web link arteHistoria
  4. see literature Louis Friedmann: Die Ortlergruppe
  5. Nicholas Mailänder: Admired, tolerated, excluded / locked out - The Jews in the Alpine Association between 1918 and 1939 ( Memento of the original from January 22, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (PDF; 60 kB) @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / activepaper.tele.net
  6. a b see literature Anton Schaller: The Wertheim Clinic
  7. see web link first ascent of the Thurwieserspitze