Ludwig Purtscheller
Ludwig Purtscheller (born October 6, 1849 in Innsbruck , Austrian Empire , † March 3, 1900 in Bern ) was an Austrian mountaineer and teacher.
Live and act
Son of Tyrolean parents (the father a kk tax collector from Innsbruck, the mother from the Stubaital ), Purtscheller attended the secondary school in Innsbruck from 1859 and then went to the secondary school in Rovereto for a year to learn the Italian language. His excellent knowledge of spoken and written Italian also came from this time.
In 1865 he came to Villach , where he had got a job in the Bleiberger mining company . Here he acquired extensive mineralogical and geological knowledge, which was useful in his later literary occupation. After he had passed the exam to become a gymnastics teacher in Graz, he was employed in Klagenfurt in 1872 with this qualification. In his free time he roamed the Karawanken , the Steiner Alps , the Julian and Carnic Alps and parts of the Tauern .
In 1874 Purtscheller moved to Salzburg, where he worked as a teacher at the kk teacher training institute and at the kk grammar school . During the school year he hiked through West Styria , the Salzburg region , North Tyrol and the Bavarian Alps . Purtscheller's endeavors were aimed at first getting to know the Eastern Alps thoroughly. He undertook successful mountain trips in all larger groups in the Eastern Alps , especially with his friend Heinrich Hess , with whom he later wrote Der Hochtourist in the Eastern Alps . After intensely climbing the local mountains, he turned to the western Alps .
Ludwig Purtscheller made many first ascents and first ascents without a mountain guide . In his time he was considered the best expert on the Alps , in which he climbed over 1700 peaks .
With the brothers Otto and Emil Zsigmondy , the first complete crossing of the Meije was achieved in 1885 . With the Zsigmondy brothers, he had already climbed the Kleine Zinne , the Ortler , the Monte Rosa east face and the Bietschhorn south face and crossed the Matterhorn without a guide . With Johann Punz from Ramsau , he climbed the east face of the Watzmann for the second time on June 12, 1885 .
On October 6, 1889, Purtscheller and his companions Hans Meyer and Yohani Kinyala Lauwo reached the summit of Kilimanjaro for the first time on their second attempt . In 1891 Purtscheller was active in mountaineering with Gottfried Merzbacher and the Glockner guides Kerer and Unterweser in the Caucasus (including Elbrus ).
In 1895 Purtscheller fell seriously ill with typhus , which from then on denied him the greatest possible exertion. In the same year he married Hedwig von Helmreichen († 1942 in Salzburg). The marriage produced a daughter and a son.
In 1897 Ernst Otto Leuenberger portrayed Purtscheller. After climbing the Aiguille du Dru on August 25, 1899, Purtscheller and his two rope companions fell into a 4-5 meter deep bergschrund and broke their right upper arm. After five weeks of inpatient treatment in Geneva , he was transferred to Bern to the clinic of the surgeon Otto Lanz , where he slowly recovered and planned to return to Salzburg in mid-March 1900. However, a flu attack and the accompanying bilateral pneumonia led to his death in the early morning hours of March 3, 1900. The burial in an honorary grave of the city of Salzburg took place on March 11, 1900 at the Salzburg municipal cemetery with great participation .
On June 28, 1901, on behalf of the Central Committee of the German and Austrian Alpine Club, the grave monument made by Hans Bitterlich was unveiled.
Honors
The Purtschellerhaus (an alpine club hut in the Berchtesgaden Alps ), a lane in the Salzburg district of Froschheim , a cul-de-sac in Innsbruck and the Purtscheller-Steig on the Schafberg were named in his honor. In addition, the channel called Couloir Purtscheller on the Dents d'Ambin near the Col de Clapier and the 3478 m high Aiguille Purtscheller on the south ridge of the Aiguille du Tour bear his name.
Fonts (selection)
- On the nomenclature of the Venediger group. Notes accompanying the card (Plate 18). In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1883, (Volume XIV), pp. 511-522. (Online at ANNO ). .
- The chamois. Sketches of their natural history. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1883, (Volume XIV), pp. 101–120. (Online at ANNO ). .
- The Tennen Mountains. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1884, (Volume XV), pp. 102-139. (Online at ANNO ). .
- Ascent of the Piz Roseg. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1884, (Volume XV), pp. 350–358. (Online at ANNO ). .
- The Meije in the Dauphiné Alps. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1885, (Volume XVI), pp. 401–417. (Online at ANNO ). .
- Two mountain trips in the Berchtesgaden Alps. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1886, (Volume XVII), pp. 281–292. (Online at ANNO ). .
- From the Graian Alps. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1887, (Volume XVIII), pp. 355–371. (Online at ANNO ). .
- Carl Diener , -: Ascent in Val de Bagnes. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1889, (Volume XX), pp. 418–469. (Online at ANNO ). .
- The Schober Group. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1891, (Volume XXII), pp. 283–343. (Online at ANNO ). .
- From the lake alps. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1893, (Volume XXIV), pp. 249–290. (Online at ANNO ). .
- -, Heinrich Hess : The high tourist in the Eastern Alps. 13 volumes. Meyer's travel books. Bibliographical Institute, Leipzig / Vienna 1894–1928, OBV . (Also: 8 volumes. Meyer's travel books. Bibliographisches Institut, Leipzig 1925–1930, DNB .)
- On the history of the development of alpinism and alpine technology in the German and Austrian Alps. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1894, (Volume XXV), pp. 95–176. (Online at ANNO ). . ( Digitized and full text in the German text archive )
- Carl Blodig, -: From the mountains of the Maurienne and the Tarentaise (part I). In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1895, (Volume XXVI), pp. 68–119. (Online at ANNO ). .
- The Manndlwand in the "Uebergossenen Alm" . (Part One). In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , year 1895 (Volume XXI), p. 167 ff. (Online at ALO ).
- The Manndlwand in the "Uebergossenen Alm" . (Part II and conclusion). In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , year 1895 (Volume XXI), p. 181 ff. (Online at ALO ).
- † Fritz Drasch . In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , year 1896 (Volume XXII), p. 220 f. (Online at ALO ).
- From the Alpine ridge of the Defreggerthal. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1897, (Volume XXVIII), pp. 155–187. (Online at ANNO ). .
- From the Glarus Alps. In: Journal of the German Alpine Association / Journal of the German and (the) Austrian Alpine Association , year 1899, (Volume XXX), pp. 178–209. (Online at ANNO ). .
- -, Heinrich Hess (Ed.): About rock and firn. Mountain hikes. Bruckmann, Munich 1901, OBV .
- Over rock and firn. Volume 1: Eastern Alps. Published by the DAV. Alpine Classics, Volume 7. Bruckmann, Munich 1987, ISBN 3-7654-2149-9 .
- Over rock and firn. Volume 2: Western Alps and trips outside Europe. Published by the DAV. Alpine Classics, Volume 8. Bruckmann, Munich 1987, ISBN 3-7654-2150-2 .
- Ludwig Purtscheller's great illustrated guide through Salzburg. City and surrounding area (...) Zell am See and Krimml. 29th edition. Krinner, Salzburg 1926, OBV .
- Great guide through Salzburg. Urban and countryside. 31st edition. Krinner, Salzburg 1927, OBV .
literature
- Little chronicle. (...) Ludwig Purtscheller. In: Neue Freie Presse , Abendblatt (No. 12764/1900), March 7, 1900, p. 1, bottom right. (Online at ANNO ). .
- Carl Blodig : † Ludwig Purtscheller . In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , year 1900 (volume XXVI), p. 49 f. (Online at ALO ).
- Josef Kürschner: Personal News. (...) In memory of Ludwig Purtscheller! In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , year 1900 (Volume XXVI), p. 83. (Online at ALO ).
- Anton Ziegler: Ludwig Purtscheller. A selection. Deviator of the Mountains, Volume 2. Lindauer, Munich 1926. - Full text online (PDF; 3.54 MB) .
- R (obert) Hösch: Purtscheller Ludwig. In: Austrian Biographical Lexicon 1815–1950 (ÖBL). Volume 8, Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften, Vienna 1983, ISBN 3-7001-0187-2 , p. 340 f. (Direct links on p. 340 , p. 341 ).
- Ewald Weiß: Ability is the measure of what is allowed. Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900). On the 100th anniversary of the death of the most successful driverless alpinist of the 19th century. In: DAV Panorama. Issue 3/2000. DAV, Munich 2000, ZDB -ID 2589886-3 , p. 52. - Text online (PDF) .
- Peter Grimm: Purtscheller, Ludwig. In: New German Biography (NDB). Volume 21, Duncker & Humblot, Berlin 2003, ISBN 3-428-11202-4 , p. 12 f. ( Digitized version ).
Web links
- Literature by and about Ludwig Purtscheller in the catalog of the German National Library
- Personal folder on Ludwig Purtscheller (I) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
- Personal folder on Ludwig Purtscheller (II) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Personal News. (...) All sorts. (...) Purtscheller memorial . In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , year 1901 (Volume XXVII), p. 173. (Online at ALO ).
- ↑ a b Blodig, p. 49.
- ↑ Blodig, p. 49 f.
- ↑ Personal News. Ludwig Purtscheller (…) In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , born in 1895 (Volume XXI), p. 175 f. (Online at ALO ).
- ↑ Blodig, p. 50.
- ↑ (…) Hedwig Purtscheller, die Witwe (…) In: Mitteilungen des Deutschen Alpenverein , Issue 11, August (1942), year 1941/42 (October 1941 to September 1942), p. 171. (Online at ALO ).
- ↑ portrait
- ^ H. H. (d. I. Heinrich Hess): Personal-Nachrichten. † Ludwig Purtscheller . In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , year 1900 (volume XXVI), p. 55 f. (Online at ALO ).
- ^ H. H. (d. I. Heinrich Hess): Personal-Nachrichten. † L. Purtscheller . In: Mittheilungen des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein , year 1900 (Volume XXVI), p. 65 f. (Online at ALO ).
Remarks
- ↑ In 1898, two years before his death, he had informed Blodig that he had now climbed 1,500 listed peaks . - See: Blodig, p. 50.
personal data | |
---|---|
SURNAME | Purtscheller, Ludwig |
BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Austrian mountaineer and teacher |
DATE OF BIRTH | October 6, 1849 |
PLACE OF BIRTH | innsbruck |
DATE OF DEATH | March 3, 1900 |
Place of death | Bern |