Peter Diener

Peter Diener

Peter Diener (born January 29, 1929 in Zittau ) is a Swiss mountaineer , pioneer of extreme climbing in Switzerland and the first to climb Dhaulagiri .

Life

Peter Diener grew up in Olbersdorf in the Görlitz district in eastern Germany and trained as a roofer . In 1950 he emigrated in an adventurous way from the GDR , since 1952 he has lived in Switzerland, from 1961 in Wildhaus . He has been a Swiss citizen since 1965, and in 1966 he founded his own business.

At the age of 13 he began climbing in the sandstone of the Zittau Mountains , in 1943/44 he climbed three-thousand-meter peaks in the Zillertal Alps and the Hohe Tauern . In Switzerland he quickly found a connection to the climbing scene and was accepted into the Alpstein climbing club in 1954 , which he headed from 1964 to 1970.

In the 50s and 60s he managed major tours and several first ascents throughout the entire Alpine region.

In 1960 Peter Diener was one of the first to climb Dhaulagiri with the expedition organized by Max Eiselin . This makes him the only German who was the first to climb one of the 14 eight-thousanders .

He was also active as a mountain rescuer and from 1986 to 1988 chief rescue officer in the central committee of the Swiss Alpine Club .

Important first ascents

• 1954 Rässegg west face with Ernst Neeracher
• 1955 Moor, middle south face with Otto Kurtenacker
• 1956 Salbitschijen Südpfeiler with Max Niedermann
• 1956 Big Bockmattliturm direct north face with Max Niedermann
• 1957 Scheienfluh west face with Max Niedermann
• 1957 Large Druze tower southwest pillar with Seth Abderhalden
• 1957 Big Bockmattliturm north face, first solo ascent
• 1958 Large Drusenturm southwest face with Seth Abderhalden , today "Seth Abderhalden Gedächtnisführe"
• 1958 Aiguilles de Chamonix 2nd complete traversal with Walter Philipp
• 1959 Scheienfluh west face , first winter ascent with Ueli Hürlemann
• May 13, 1960 Dhaulagiri 8167 m, first ascent with Ernst Forrer , Albin Schelbert , Kurt Diemberger and the Sherpas Nima and Nawang Dorjee
• 1962 Gätterifirst Nordkante with Ernst Neeracher

Contributions by Peter Diener

• Over the Aiguille Blanche north face to the Peuterey ridge. In: 50th anniversary of the Alpstein climbing club . Alpsteinismus-Verlag, Unterwasser 1998.
• Dru west wall. In: 50th anniversary of the Alpstein climbing club . Alpsteinismus-Verlag, Unterwasser 1998.
• KCA participation in expeditions to the mountains of the world. In: 50th anniversary of the Alpstein climbing club . Alpsteinismus-Verlag, Unterwasser 1998.
• In the last moment. In: Emil Zopfi : Churfirsten . About the seven mountains (mountain monograph; vol. 14). AS Verlag, Zurich 2006, ISBN 3-909111-22-X .

swell

• Toni Hiebeler : Lexicon of the Alps. Bertelsmann-Lexikon-Verlag, Gütersloh 1977, ISBN 3-570-01590-4 .
• Terra plana. Magazine for culture, history, tourism and business. 1989.
• The Alps. Journal of the Swiss Alpine Club , vol. 33 (1957), vol. 34 (1958), vol. 36 (1960), vol. 86 (2010), ISSN  0002-6336 .
• Dietrich Hasse , Heinz Lothar Stutte: Felsenheimat Elbe Sandstone Mountains. Experience of a landscape and its artistic representation; a century of Saxon mountaineering . Self-published, Wolfratshausen 1979, ISBN 3-922066-00-3 .
• Klaus Wilk: ... opened up Teufelsriss, Rosa-Kante and Dhaulagiri ... "A Saxon was first" and more about the almost 30,000 days of life of the mountain climber and family man Peter Diener . Self-published, Dresden 2009, ISBN 978-3-941606-00-5 .

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Daniel Anker for the Swiss Alpine Club in January 2019: From the anniversary tower to the anniversary , Peter Diener to the 90th birthday, accessed on January 28, 2019