Dietrich Hasse
Dietrich Hasse (born March 24, 1933 in Dresden ) is a German climber and author, who was best known in the 1950s and 1960s for his extreme climbing tours.
Life
Hasse, who comes from Bad Schandau in Saxony , was one of the best mountaineers in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in the 1950s . His most famous first ascents in the Saxon Switzerland climbing area include a. the valley path on the Höllenhund , the west ridge on the Falkenstein and the Rudolf Fehrmann memorial path on the Bloßstock . In 1955 he left the GDR and went to West Berlin , later to southern Germany. After studying geography , politics and biology at the Bergakademie Freiberg and the Free University of Berlin , he worked as a school teacher at grammar schools in Stuttgart and Munich .
Dietrich Hasse experienced his international breakthrough with the first ascent of the north face Direttissima of the Great Peaks in the Sexten Dolomites in 1958. He also repeated numerous extreme routes and carried out other first ascents, such as B. on the southwest face of the Rotwand in the rose garden together with Lothar Brandler . Hasse also took part in some non-European expeditions, such as B. 1960 in the Hindu Kush , 1969 in the Andes and 1971/72 in the Hoggar Mountains in the Sahara . From 1975 he kept going to the famous Greek Meteora rocks, which he helped to climb.
Dietrich Hasse is the author of several geographical, alpine and other publications. Since 1990 he has been an honorary member of the Saxon Mountaineering Association .
The direttissima of the Great Zinne north face
This route, first climbed from 6 to 10 July 1958 by Dietrich Hasse, Lothar Brandler , Jörg Lehne and Sigi Löw and therefore also called Hasse-Brandler , leads in a direct line through the 550-meter-high north face of the Great Zinne and was considered the most difficult at the time Rock climbing all over the Alps. At that time, the first climbers climbed technically, ie they used hooks, step ladders and similar materials not only for safety, but also for movement; the level of difficulty was given as VI / A2 (according to another source VI- / A3). The approximately 140 (according to other information: 180) hooks that were hit sparked heated debates, e.g. B. in the magazine Bergsteiger , about how many hooks are acceptable when climbing a new route and when one can only speak of a material battle against the mountain. 1987 was Hasse-Brandler by Kurt Albert and Gerold Sprachmann first redpoint climbed and was difficult to top VIII. Degree turn, one of the hardest free climbing in the Alps. On August 1, 2002, Alexander Huber finally accomplished one of the most remarkable feats of modern alpinism when he climbed the Hasse-Brandler free solo .
Literature by Dietrich Hasse
- Dietrich Hasse, Heinz Lothar Stutte: Felsenheimat Elbe Sandstone Mountains, Saxon-Bohemian Switzerland , Verlag HL Stutte, Wolfratshausen, 1979, ISBN 3-922066-00-3
- Dietrich Hasse: Cradle of free climbing - Saxon landmarks in global alpine sports until the middle of the 20th century , Bergverlag Rother , Munich, 2nd edition 2000. ISBN 3-7633-8103-1
- Dietrich Hasse et al .: Meteora / Greece. Experience a landscape. Ger.-Engl . ISBN 3-922066-01-1
- Dietrich Hasse et al .: Meteora / Greece Volume II. Climbing Guide Supplementary Volume. German / Greek / Engl. ISBN 3-922066-05-4
- Dietrich Hasse et al .: Meteora special map. Hiking map. 1: 8000. German / English , Stutte, Heinz Lothar, Photography and Publishing 1985. ISBN 3-922-06603-8
swell
- CV on the website of the Saxon Mountaineering Association
- Brief curriculum vitae and a photo of Dietrich Hasse
- Route description with topography and photos on bergstieg.com
- To the north face Direttissima at the Großer Zinne
Web links
- Literature by and about Dietrich Hasse in the catalog of the German National Library
Individual evidence
- ↑ Numerous websites give the year 2003 as the date; this is wrong.
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Hate, Dietrich |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | German climber and author |
| DATE OF BIRTH | March 24, 1933 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Dresden |