Jörg Lehne

Jörg Lehne (born May 6, 1936 in Berlin ; † July 23, 1969 at the Grandes Jorasses ) was a German mountaineer.

biography

Jörg Lehne, who was born in Berlin and grew up in Rosenheim , attended high school and trained as a typesetter . He then attended engineering school and most recently worked as a management assistant in a large graphic company in Stuttgart .

After climbing a lot as a child, he began mountaineering in 1950 and joined Siegfried Löw in 1954 to form one of the most successful rope teams in the Alps. They undertook challenging rock climbing in the Kaiser Mountains , in the Mont Blanc Group and the Dolomites, among others . In 1958, together with Dietrich Hasse and Lothar Brandler , they succeeded in the first ascent of the direct north face of the Große Zinne ( 2999  m ). In 1959 the two succeeded in the first winter ascent of the Rotwand ( 2806  m ) via the Hermann Buhl Memorial Trail (VIII / VI A2). In 1959, the first winter ascent of the "direct east face" of the meat bank ( 2187  m ) followed. In February 1960 he made an unsuccessful first winter ascent of the Eiger north face ( 3967  m ) with Löw and Brandler .

As a participant in the Herrligkoffer expedition to the Diamir flank of Nanga Parbat in 1961, Lehne played the key role in overcoming a slab wall at a height of almost 6000  m . However, the ascent to the summit failed at 7150  m due to waist-high fresh snow. In February / March 1966, as the leader of a German rope team, he was involved in the first ascent of the summit fall line of the Eiger north face. The German rope team had merged with a British-American team after the leader of this rope team had a fatal accident. In commemoration, they therefore named their route John Harlin - Direttissima .

At the end of July 1969 Lehne died while bivouacking on the Walker pillar of the Grandes Jorasses ( 4208  m ) from falling rocks , and his climbing partner Karl Golikow suffered a thigh fracture. Lehne left behind a wife and two children.

Commemoration

In August 1969 he was buried in the Rosenheim cemetery.

In 1971 Herrligkoffer named a tour to the Rakaposhi Jörg Lehne Memorial Expedition . In climbing area Northern Frankenjura there is a climbing route called Jörg Lehne Gedenkweg .

Known ascents

• Totenkirchl in the Kaiser Mountains , west face 1950
• Meat bankin the Kaiser Mountains , southeast intersection, 1951
• Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont-Blanc group , west face 1955
• Grand Capucin in the Mont-Blanc Group , east face, 5th ascent 1955
• Piz Badile in the Bergell Alps , northeast face, 1956
• Aiguille du Dru in the Mont-Blanc group , west face, 5th ascent 1956
• Fieberhorn in the Tennengebirge , southwestern edge, 1956
• Marmolada in the Dolomites , southwest face, 1956
• Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps , south face, 5th climber 1957
• Tofana in the Fanes group , Pilastro, 1957
• Cima su Alto in the Dolomites , Livanos intersection, 11th ascent 1957
• Watzmann in the Berchtesgaden Alps , south face, 1957
• Däumling in the Dachstein Mountains , eastern edge, first climber in winter 1957/1958
• Great pinnacle in the Sexten Dolomites , north face, first ascent in 1958
• Rotwand in the Rosengarten group , southwest face, first climber in winter 1958/1959
• Meat bank in the Kaiser Mountains , east face, first climber in winter 1959
• Western pinnacle in the Sexten Dolomites , Franzosenführe, 1959
• Vordere Karlspitze in the Kaiser Mountains , leaning pillar of the southwest face, first climber in 1960
• Meat bank in the Kaiser Mountains , jewelry fireplace , 2nd walker 1960
• Laliderer peak in the Hinterautal-Vomper chain , north face, 1961
• Eiger north face in the Bernese Alps , summit fall line, first ascent in 1966
• Black Wall in the Wetterstein Mountains , first ascent in 1967

Web links

• Herrligkoffer Foundation
• Historical alpine archive