Grand Capucin
| Grand Capucin | ||
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| height | 3838 m | |
| location | Haute-Savoie ( France ) | |
| Mountains | Mont Blanc massif , Savoy Alps , Western Alps | |
| Coordinates | 45 ° 51 '7 " N , 6 ° 53' 54" E | |
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| First ascent | July 24, 1924 by E. Augusto, Adolphe Rey, Henri Rey and L. Lanier | |
| Normal way | Difficult climbing | |
The Grand Capucin [ gʀɑ̃ kapyˈsɛ̃ ] is a 3838 m high mountain in the French Mont-Blanc group . It is considered to be the most difficult mountain in the Alps to climb (normal route at VII degree). It rises as a huge rock obelisk almost 400 meters from the Glacier du Géant and can only be seen from the glacier and the surrounding peaks. To the north it is covered by the steep east wall lines of Mont Blanc du Tacul , directly to the west is Mont Maudit , which leads to the summit of Mont Blanc to the southwest . In the south lies the Tour Ronde .
The ascent can be done from Chamonix ( France ) by cable car to the Aiguille du Midi or from Entrèves near Courmayeur ( Italy ) by cable car to Pointe Helbronner .
The first ascent of the summit took place on July 24, 1924 by E. Augusto, Adolphe and Henri Rey and L. Lanier.
The first ascent of almost 400 meters high, near-vertical eastern face succeeded Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo of 20 to 23 July 1951. They overcame difficulties to V +, A2 . The first free ascent of the Bonattiführe was not possible until 1983 (difficulties up to VIII-).
Ever since the Bonatti ascent, the Grand Capucin has been in the constant interest of climbers, despite its hidden location. Especially in the 1980s, numerous new routes were committed in the steep granite walls . For example, in the south face Sourire de l'Été (1981, VII, A2) and O Sole Mio (1984, VII +) or in the east face Elixier d'Astaroth (1981, VII +, A3) and Directe des Capucines (1983, VII +) .
2005 was Alexander Huber with 8b in the French scale Rated route Voie Petit first rotpunkt commit. In 2008, Alexander Huber climbed the Voie des Suisses free solo in ascent and descent without using artificial ascent or descent aids.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ cf. ALPIN 12/08
- ↑ Announcement about the first free ascent of Voie Petit