Mont Blanc du Tacul
| Mont Blanc du Tacul | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Mont Blanc du Tacul from the Aiguille du Midi |
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| height | 4248 m | |
| location | Haute-Savoie , France | |
| Mountains | Savoy Alps | |
| Dominance | 1.38 km → Mont Maudit | |
| Notch height | 213 m ↓ unnamed saddle | |
| Coordinates | 45 ° 51 '24 " N , 6 ° 53' 16" E | |
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| First ascent | August 8, 1855 by Charles Hudson | |
| Normal way | Glacier tour through the NW flank (PD) | |
The Mont Blanc du Tacul is a 4248 m high mountain in the French Alps .
It is located in the Savoy Alps in the Mont Blanc group between Mont Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi . The valley locations for climbing the summit are Chamonix and Courmayeur .
history
The first documented ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul took place on August 8, 1855 by Charles Hudson , when he, after originally targeting Mont Blanc, climbed the summit over the Col du Midi . It is assumed, however, that mountain guides from Chamonix reached the summit with James Ramsay as early as 1854 or earlier in 1855.
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Routes
The normal route starts at the Aiguille du Midi ( 3842 m ) or the Cosmique hut ( 3613 m ). From there, the ascent is initially a descent onto the glacier and over it to the northwest flank. Through this to the west shoulder and in ¼ hour to the summit. The ascent offers difficulties of difficulty WS or PD and steepnesses up to 40 °. 3–4 hours from the Aiguille du Midi.
The normal route is part of the crossing from the Aiguille du Midi to Mont Blanc. Therefore, the Mont Blanc du Tacul is often climbed as part of this ascent (including the descent from Mont Blanc). In addition, the ascent can be carried out as a ski tour in winter and spring.
All other climbs on Mont Blanc du Tacul are much more difficult than the normal route. Well known are the Boccalatte and Gervasutti pillars as well as the southeast ridge (also Devil's Ridge ) with the Aiguilles du Diable , five separate rock needles over 4000 meters above sea level, from the Turin hut on the Italian side of the mountain. The mountain has, also because of its proximity to the cable car, a large number of north face tours, which are among the most frequently climbed on the Mont Blanc massif. In addition to the shorter tours on the Triangle du Tacul such as the Chere Colouir (D), there are also some extreme classics such as the Supercolouir (ED-) at the main summit.
literature
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps. 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .
- Hartmut Eberlein: Mont Blanc Group: Area guide for mountaineers and climbers; written according to the guidelines of the UIAA. 10th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2005, ISBN 3-7633-2414-3 .
Web links
- Mont Blanc du Tacul at 4000m - The four-thousanders of the Alps
- Ski tour to Mont Blanc du Tacul