Piz Badile
| Piz Badile | ||
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 Piz Badile with north edge and north-east face |
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| height | 3308 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Graubünden , Switzerland / Sondrio , Italy | |
| Mountains | Bernina Alps | |
| Dominance | 1.06 km → Piz Cengalo | |
| Notch height | 262 m ↓ on the ridge between Punta Sertori and Cengalo | |
| Coordinates , ( CH ) | 46 ° 17 '41 " N , 9 ° 35' 10" O ( 765 456 / 129299 ) | |
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| rock | Granodiorite | |
| First ascent | 1867 by WAB Coolidge with F. and H. Dévouassoud | |
The Piz Badile (Italian: Pizzo Badile ; Piz is the word for tip in both the Rhaeto-Romanic and Bergell dialect (“Bregagliott”) , 'Badile' means ' shovel ' in Italian ) is a prominent mountain in the Bergell Alps in the south of the canton of Graubünden in Switzerland .
location
The border between Italy and Switzerland runs over the summit of Piz Badile . He is 3308 m above sea level. M. high and rises between the Val Bondasca in the north, a side valley belonging to the Bergell , and the Val Masino in the south, which drains to the Adda .
The Piz Badile is the dominant summit of the heavily fissured Bondasca group, but it is overlooked by 61 m by the Piz Cengalo ( 3369 m above sea level ) located around 1 km to the east . The famous northern edge of Piz Badile rises between two torn glaciers, the Vadrec da la Trubinasca in the west and the Vadrec dal Cengal in the east ( Vadrec is the Bergell name for glacier). Particularly impressive are the slabs of the north-east face, which slopes over 700 meters in altitude. The funnel shape of the slabs in the upper part of the wall give Piz Badile the shape of a shovel, from which it takes its name.
geology
The mountain, like the entire Bergell Alps, consists of the geologically relatively young so-called Bergell granite , a granite with conspicuously large potassium feldspar crystals ( petrographically , the Bergeller granite is a granodiorite ). In the Tertiary , around 30 million years ago, liquid magma penetrated the Pennine nappes at a depth of around 20 km . The Bergell granite quickly came to the surface through uplift processes along the Insubric Line , a tertiary fracture zone in the southern Alps .
The rapid uplift and rise in the permafrost limit are also the main causes of the instability of the mountain ridge in which the Badile is located. After relatively minor landslides in 2011 and 2012, a large rock mass, estimated at 1.5-3 million cubic meters , broke off from neighboring Piz Cengalo on the morning of 23 August 2017, triggering a mudslide through the Bondasca Valley. This buried eight descending climbers and caused great damage to alpine huts in Bondasca and in the village of Bondo . Since then, the approaches to the huts have been closed and the northern climbs on Piz Badile are inaccessible. The municipality of Bergell has announced that the measurements of rock movement cannot rule out further landslides in the near future (as of April 2018). See also article Rockslide by Bondo
Since July 6, 2019, the approach to Capanna Sasc Furä and thus the approach to Piz Badile have been open on an old, restored trail
Routes and climbs
Together with its neighboring peaks, the Piz Badile is one of the most famous climbing mountains in the Alps .
The normal route leads from the south, from the Italian Gianetti hut in the uppermost Val Masino to the summit (II). The Piz Badile was climbed for the first time in 1867 via the southern flank of WAB Coolidge with his companions F. and H. Dévouassoud.
The starting point for a mountain ascent from the north, from the Swiss side, is the Sasc-Furä-Hütte ( 1904 m above sea level ), a hut of the Swiss Alpine Club , which can be reached from Bondo through the Val Bondasca. Directly above the hut, the north edge (IV, a point V-) pulls razor-sharp and straight to the summit. The north edge, also simply called Badile edge , is one of the most beautiful and popular edge guides in the Alps with an edge length of over 1,200 m, it was first climbed on August 4, 1923 by Alfred Zürcher and his guide Walter Risch .
The route through the northeast face (Via Cassin, V + / A0 or VI +) was conquered in August 1937 by Riccardo Cassin together with Vittorio Ratti, Gigi Esposito, Mario Molteni, and Giuseppe Valsecchi in a three-day battle in a sudden fall in the weather. Molteni and Valsecchi died of exhaustion on the descent over the southern flank.
Hermann Buhl made headlines when he climbed the north-east face (Cassinführe) alone for the first time in 1952, after having traveled by bike from Landeck , around 160 km away , the day before and returned the same weekend.
Since 1967, the summit which is in close proximity Bivacco Alfredo Redaelli , a bivouac of the CAI .
In September 1972 the German mountaineers Karl Golikow and Otto Uhl had a fatal accident on the northeast face. Like the first climbers, they were surprised by a sudden fall in the weather. In summer and autumn, because of the proximity of the hot Po plain, there are violent thermals and sudden thunderstorms, which make the Badile, especially the northeast face, very dangerous.
See also
literature
- Marco Volken : Badile. Granite cathedral. AS Verlag , Zurich 2006
Web links
- Panorama from Piz Badile
- Pictures of Piz Badile and other Bergell mountains ( Memento from February 21, 2008 in the Internet Archive )
- Photo and text report on the north edge of Piz Badile
Individual evidence
- ↑ https://www.comunedibregaglia.ch/images/stories/2019_07_04_riapertura_sentiero_Sasc_Fur%C3%A4.pdf
- ↑ Climbing: Piz Badile on the website of the Capanna Sasc Furä CAS
- ↑ Karin Steinbach Tarnutzer : In the footsteps of Riccardo Cassin through the famous wall. When the weather is nice, it's busy - on Via Cassin on the northeast face of Badile. In: Neue Zürcher Zeitung Online. Neue Zürcher Zeitung AG, August 21, 2009, accessed on January 3, 2012 .