Lothar Brandler

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Lothar Brandler (born October 19, 1936 in Dresden ; † November 15, 2016 ) was a German climber , mountaineer and mountain filmmaker .

Life

Lothar Brandler was one of the best climbers in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains early on . Here he made a first ascent at the age of 15 . Other important first ascents, such as the "south face" on Falkenstein , difficulty level VIIIb (Saxon), followed.

He had to leave school when he was 13 when he drew a caricature of Adolf Hitler on the blackboard. Later he managed to catch up on his Abitur and study music.

At the end of the 1950s he left the GDR and went to Munich. Here he started at the Munich sports store Schuster and met Toni Hiebeler there . Through his mediation, he began to work as an assistant to Wolfgang Gorter and then stood behind the camera himself at the age of 27. He finished his music studies and became an editor and producer at Bayerischer Rundfunk . For his films “Phenomenon Climbing”, “Direttissima” and his first film “Die Europäische Seilschaft” he received many awards and became one of the most famous mountain filmmakers.

Two actors died during the shooting of the film Der Blitz - Inferno on Montblanc . The film tells the story of one of the worst mountain disasters in alpine history, the drama about the attempt to first ascent the Frêney central pillar (Montblanc) in 1961, in which four climbers lost their lives. The protagonists are two rope teams, an Italian around Walter Bonatti and a French around Pierre Mazeaud , who came together to achieve success together.

Overall, Lothar Brandler received more than 20 national and international film awards.

As a climber, he has left a large number of first ascents, especially in the Kaiser , Wetterstein and Dolomites .

The direttissima of the Great Zinne north face

Well-known routes on the north face of the Große Zinne: 1 = Dibonakante, 2 = Via Camillotto Pellesier, 3 = The Phantom of the Zinne, 4 = Hasse / Brandler (Direttissima), 5 = Sachsenweg (Superdirettissima), 6 = Comici / Dimai

His most important first ascent was the Direttissima of the Große Zinne-Nordwand: He climbed it from July 6th to 10th, 1958 together with Dietrich Hasse , Jörg Lehne and Siegi Löw . It is therefore also called Hasse-Brandler and leads in a direct line through the 550-meter-high Great Zinne north face. At that time it was considered to be the hardest rock climbing in the entire Alps. Some of the first climbers climbed technically , ie they used hooks (140–180 in total), stepladders and similar materials not only for safety but also for movement. The level of difficulty was given as VI / A2 . Probably the seventh degree (UIAA) in free climbing was achieved at that time . Kurt Albert rated the route as an VIII (UIAA) on his red point ascent in 1987 . Today the difficulty of the route, with free climbing, is given as VIII + (UIAA).

Well-known first ascents

Saxon Switzerland

Konstein

  • Schnippelriß (VII-) (UIAA) on the Konsteiner Wall near Konstein

Alps

  • 1954: Oberreintaldom north-west face (VI / A0) (UIAA), Wetterstein Mountains
  • 1958: Great pinnacle north face Direttissima or Hasse-Brandler (VI / A2) (UIAA), Dolomites
  • 1958: Rotwand -Südwestwand Hermann-Buhl-Gedenkweg (VI / A1) (UIAA), Dolomites
  • 1959: Meat bank pillars (VII- / A0) (UIAA), Kaiser Mountains
  • 1960: Totenkirchl -Westwand pillar edge (VI / A1) (UIAA), Kaiser Mountains

Movies

  • 1960: Direttissima
  • 1964: The European rope team
  • 1966: Sensation Alps
  • 1967: Tirol laughs
  • 1969: The phenomenon of climbing
  • 1969: Eiger north face - path of the Japanese
  • 1969: When pigeons let down
  • 1972: The Blitz - Inferno on Montblanc (film adaptation of the Frêney tragedy )
  • 1974: the wall
  • 1986: Matterhorn - a destination of longing

Books

  • Lothar Brandler: With the film camera through the great walls of the Alps , AS-Verlag, Zurich 2008

Individual evidence

  1. ^ A b website German Historical Museum Berlin: Art of the Document - in the mountains
  2. ↑ Reinhold Messner: Vertical - 150 years of climbing art . 2nd Edition. BLV Buchverlag, Munich 2008, ISBN 978-3-8354-0380-2 , p. 168 .
  3. ↑ Website Bergstieg.com/ http://www.bergstieg.com/de/touren.aspx?ID=1505  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.bergstieg.com  

Web links

personal data
SURNAME Brandler, Lothar
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German mountaineer and mountain filmmaker
DATE OF BIRTH October 19, 1936
PLACE OF BIRTH Dresden
DATE OF DEATH 15th November 2016