Totenkirchl
| Totenkirchl | ||
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 Totenkirchl from the north with normal route from Stripsenjoch |
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| height | 2190 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Kaiser Mountains | |
| Dominance | 0.27 km → Hintere Karlspitze | |
| Notch height | 129 m ↓ Scharte to the Karlspitzen | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 34 '12 " N , 12 ° 18' 43" E | |
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| First ascent | June 16, 1881 by Karl Babenstuber, Gottfried Merzbacher , Michael Soyer | |
| Normal way | From Stripsenjoch with a combination of guide path, Untere Schmidrinne, Leuchs variant and Upper Merzbacherweg ( III ) | |
 Totenkirchl summit seen from the Hinteren Karlspitze |
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The Totenkirchl is a 2190 m high mountain in the Wilder Kaiser in the Northern Limestone Alps east of Kufstein in Tyrol . To the north, the Totenkirchl has a steep base with a wide craggy belt, while to the north-west it forms a rock wall, which is interrupted by three large terraces . To the east the mountain falls with a 400 m high wall against the Winkel kar (snow hole), on the west side there is a 600 m high steep wall above the Hohen Winkel .
location
The mountain belongs to the central emperor and is located immediately south of the Stripsenjoch and is connected to the Karlspitzen massif (ridge to the rear Karlspitze) via the Winklerscharte . To the east opposite are the meat bank and Christmas tower , in between is the Winkelkar with the snow hole . To the west is the Hochkar Hoher Winkel , behind it the Haltstock with the Kleine Halt . The mountain belongs to the municipality of Kirchdorf in Tirol .
Routes
The mountain is one of the most famous climbing mountains in the northern Limestone Alps with over fifty climbing routes from level III on the UIAA scale . After two failed attempts, Karl Babenstuber, Gottfried Merzbacher and the mountain guide Michael Soyer (called Steinackerer) first climbed on June 16, 1881. In 1893, the 25th ascent took place. The west face was first climbed by Dülfer and von Redwitz in 1913. It is particularly known and popular as a climbing mountain because of its numerous chimneys , such as the Dülfer chimney named after Hans Dülfer . Heinrich Fick and Fritz Christ climbed the Christ-Fick chimney for the first time .
The starting point for tours to the Totenkirchl is the Stripsenjochhaus of the Austrian Alpine Association (ÖAV).
Today's normal route (combination of guide route, lower Schmidtrinne, Leuchs variant and upper Merzbacherweg, therefore sometimes difficult route finding) begins at the Stripsenjoch and initially leads on a trail over several elevations and notches, partly through pines and over rocks to the foot of the wall (a longer climbing point II). From there the route leads past the guide needles to the first terrace, where the route turns to the right and leads up over the Führerwandl. You continue up over the guide chimney and the Schmidtrinne and then through the Leuchsrinne and over a small gap up to the second terrace. There walking area to the upper end and then upwards over a wall, gutters, past the Erich-König-Höhle and through a small notch on the left over the ridge to the third terrace (Oberer Merzbacherweg). From there the pre-summit on the west side immediately into the notch in front of the summit and over gullies and ribbons as well as scree up to the summit cross with a book. The climbing route is partly marked and secured with bolts . Time required from Stripsenjoch about 4 hours. Difficulty II (multiple) and several longer passages up to III +. Due to the many inspections, partly greasy rock and at risk of falling rocks .
Varia
The first victim of the Totenkirchl known by name was Munich's Josef Ehret, who in October 1892, despite all warnings, had not let himself be dissuaded from conquering the mountain, which is difficult even in good weather conditions, in wet, cold and foggy weather.
On August 1, 1925, the mountain guide Hans Fiechtl fell to his death while climbing the snow hole between Fleischbank and Totenkirchl. It was the sixth fatal crash that had occurred in the Wilder Kaiser area that year. A week before, Fichtl had accompanied Resi Stöger, the 11-year-old daughter of the hut keeper of the Stripsenjoch house, and her 13-year-old friend Toni Steiner to the summit. The two girls are considered to be the youngest conquerors of the mountain. Just one day after Fichtl's death, four Munich tourists died of exhaustion as a result of a sudden snow storm.
The oldest person who stood on the summit of the Totenkirchl was Arno Loth from Rosenheim. He was 86 years old at the time of the ascent.
In 1918 the Totenkirchl was climbed for the first time by a tourist with only one leg.
In 1930 the mountain claimed seven lives. Four young climbers from Munich died in just one day.
According to a note that appeared in the Salzburger Volksblatt in 1931, 130 mountaineers had lost their lives while practicing climbing in the Wilder Kaiser area at the time of the report. The Totenkirchl accounted for 25 deaths.
In August 1938 three mountaineers and one female climber, all four from Munich, fell to their deaths.
In 1942 a team from the cultural film department of Wien-Film made a contribution about the Totenkirchl. During a break in filming, those involved in this project witnessed an alpine emergency that cost two climbers their lives.
In Hinterbärenbad (municipality of Ebbs) a memorial for the climbers who died in the Wilder Kaiser area was built not far from the Anton-Karg-Haus .
In June 1942, the Totenkirchl became the scene of an alpine military action by a mountain artillery division, which had the order to position a cannon on a notch just below the second terrace.
In January 2006, the Austrian mountain guide and high-altitude mountaineer Markus Kronthaler survived a fall from a great height on a winter tour on the Tochenkirchl without significant injuries. Just four months later, Kronthaler tragically died on an expedition to Broad Peak .
The last fatal alpine accident occurred in August 2011.
Literature and map
- Horst Höfler , Jan Piepenstock: Alpine Kaiser Mountains. Alpine Club Guide for hikers and mountaineers (= Alpine Club Guide ). 12th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1257-9 .
- Pit Schubert : Extreme Kaiser Mountains. Alpine club guide for climbers (= Alpine club guide ). Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-7633-1272-2
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, Kaiser Mountains , sheet 8.
- Emil Gretschmann, Munich: The Totenkirchl. Thoughts on the ascension story . In: Austrian Tourist Newspaper, 42 year, 1922, p. 125 ff. Digital copy available at ANNO [13]
Web links
- Climbing routes on the Totenkirchl
- Festivaltour.de - The history of climbing in old photographs, especially part 5 [14]
Individual evidence
- ↑ Fritz Schmitt: The book of the Wilder Kaiser . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1982, p. 160f.
- ^ Richard Goedeke: Climbing Guide Bavarian Alps, North Tyrol / Pleasure Tours III-VII . Bergverlag Rother, 2nd edition, Munich 2009, p. 132.
- ↑ Fritz Schmitt: The book of the Wilder Kaiser . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1982, p. 75.
- ^ Heinrich Fick - a deaf first climber. In: Fritz Schmitt: Mountaineer Anecdotes. Bruckmann, Munich 1985, p. 71.
- ^ The interesting sheet, October 20, 1892, p. 5; [1]
- ↑ Tagblatt, July 22, 1925, p. 6; [2]
- ↑ Innsbrucker Nachrichten, August 4, 1925, p. 5; [3]
- ↑ Neue Warte am Inn, September 13, 1944, p. 2
- ↑ Neuigkeits-Weltblatt, September 21, 1918, p. 6; [4]
- ↑ Innsbrucker Nachrichten, September 10, 1930, p. 6; [5]
- ^ Salzburger Volksblatt, November 3, 1931, p. 8; [6]
- ^ Bregenzer / Vorarlberger Tagblatt, August 24, 1938, p. 3; [7]
- ^ Salzburger Volksblatt, June 2, 1942, p. 3; [8th]
- ↑ Pictures of the memorial [9]
- ↑ Innsbrucker Nachrichten, June 13, 1942, p. 4; [10]
- ^ Article ORF Tirol, January 9, 2006 [11]
- ↑ Report on the accident in the Donaukurier [12]