Salbitschijen
| Salbitschijen | ||
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 Salbitschijen seen from the west across the Pre-Alp valley |
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| height | 2985 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Canton of Uri , Switzerland | |
| Mountains | Uri Alps | |
| Dominance | 0.54 km → Rohrspitzli | |
| Coordinates | 683 454 / 170 505 | |
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| rock | granite | |
| First ascent | 1899 | |
The Salbitschijen is 2985 m above sea level. M. high mountain in the Uri Alps . It is a climbing mountain with classic ridge and wall routes in granite .
The Salbitschijen is located north of the Göscheneralp valley, through which the Göschernerreuss flows from the Göscheneralpsee . The summit is crowned by the famous 15 m high Salbit summit needle, which can be climbed by climbing in the fifth degree .
The starting point for an ascent of the Salbitschijen is the Salbithütte at an altitude of 2105 m . It is connected to the Voralphütte to the west by a trail that leads through the southern flank of the Salbitschijen with a level of difficulty of T4 . One of the attractions of this route is the 90-meter-long Salbit Bridge , which opened in 2010 .
Climbing tours
Three massive ridges lead up the mountain, the west, south and east ridge. It can be reached from the north through a couloir, often filled with snow, and later over light rocks (I – II).
An often underestimated climbing route with over 30 pitches up to the VII level of difficulty leads over the west ridge , where many rope teams cannot do without a bivouac . The first integral inspection took place in June 1948 by Ernest and Betty Favre and Louis-Maurice Henchoz .
The south ridge is often described as one of the most beautiful ridge climbs in the entire Alpine region . It goes over 16 pitches and has several places in the upper V difficulty level. Alfred Amstad , Otto Amstad and Guido Masetto made the first ascent on August 16, 1935.
The east ridge (IV – V) is the simplest of the three ridges. The first inspection was carried out by August and Hugo Müller on June 20, 1920.
Numerous well-known granite climbs lead through the southeast wall of the twin tower in front.
Many of the routes were gently renovated with bolts by Hans Berger, the host of the Salbithütte .
Surname
Schije in Swiss German means thin lath, fence, long board, fence post, haglatte , which is transferred to the mountain names accordingly, 'towering narrow rock formation'.
Web links
- Homepage of the Salbi Hats
- Description of a climbing tour over the west ridge
- Photo of the Salbit Summit Needle
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Position & altitude according to SwissTopo (maps of Switzerland)
- ↑ Bruno Müller: With magnesia and hemp rope . 1998, p. 93.
- ↑ Jürg von Känel: Switzerland plaisir east . 2001, p. 103.
- ^ Alfred Amstad: La première ascension de la crête sud du Salbitschyn, 2989 meters. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 12th year, 1936, pp. 352–357.
- ↑ Description on top-of-uri.ch ( Memento from February 21, 2012 in the Internet Archive )