Alfred Amstad

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Alfred Amstad (center) together with Guido Masetto (left) and Otto Amstad on August 16, 1935 on the summit of the Salbitschijen after the first ascent of the south ridge

Alfred Amstad (born May 31, 1912 in Beckenried ; † July 11, 1973 in Zurich ) was a Swiss mountaineer and first-time climber of classic routes in the Uri Alps .

Alpinism

In the thirties and forties, Alfred Amstad formed a strong rope team with his brother Otto Amstad, Guido Masetto and from 1937 also Hans Flachsmann , who succeeded in the first ascent of over 40 routes, some of which are still classic today, in the Uri Alps. They were early free climbing enthusiasts and used few rock hooks . Their most famous route is the south ridge of the Salbitschijen , which is considered one of the most beautiful ridge routes in the Alps. Alfred was the strongest climber in the rope team. For example, he mastered the key point on the Salbitschijen south ridge in the lower fifth UIAA level of difficulty with just two hooks. Amstad was a member of the Uto (Zurich) section of the Swiss Alpine Club , where he worked as a tour guide and from 1953 to 1958 as a board member. He also worked as a mountain photographer and presented his works to a wide audience in lectures and publications.

Private life

Amstad spent most of his childhood in Zurich and later lived in the Zollikerberg district of the Zollikon community . He married in 1941 and had two sons and a daughter. After a brief illness, he died on July 11, 1973 in Zurich.

Important first ascents (selection)

Publications by Alfred Amstad (selection)

  • La première ascension de la crête est du Schneestock, 3611 mètres. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 12th year, 1936, pp. 238–240.
  • La première ascension de la crête sud du Salbitschyn, 2989 mètres. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 12th year, 1936, pp. 352–357.
  • La Krönte par le south tower. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 13th year, 1937, pp. 398-400.
  • Varappes near Engelberg. I. Crête est du Lauchernstock (2642 m.). In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 14th year, 1938, pp. 275-277.
  • Varappes near Engelberg. II. La paroi sud de la Bargeln, 2670 m. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 15th year, 1939, pp. 84–87.
  • Varappes near Engelberg. III. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 15th year, 1939, pp. 322-324.
  • The Akademikerweg on the Bifertenstock (3426 m). In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 18th year, 1942, pp. 316–319.
  • Grigna. About small mountains, big difficulties and all kinds of things to think about. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. Volume 21, 1945, pp. 132-137.

literature

  • Hans Flachsmann: Alfred Amstad-Roth, 1912–1973. In: The Uto. News from the Uto section of the Swiss Alpine Club. 52nd Volume, No. 9, 1973, pp. 164-165.
  • Hans Flachsmann: Alfred Amstad-Roth, 1912–1973. In: The Alps. Monthly bulletin of the Swiss Alpine Club. 49th Volume, No. 10, 1973, pp. 247-248.
  • Bruno Müller: With hemp rope and magnesia. Uri alpinism and its history. Self-published by Bruno Müller, Altdorf 1998.
  • Swiss Alpine Club (Ed.): Urner Alpen West (= Urner Alps . Volume 2). 8th edition. Verlag des SAC, Zurich 1986, ISBN 3-85902-013-7 .

Web links

Commons : Alfred Amstad  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Hans Flachsmann: Alfred Amstad-Roth, 1912–1973. In: The Alps. Monthly bulletin of the Swiss Alpine Club. 49th Volume, No. 10, 1973, p. 247.
  2. ↑ Personal folder about Alfred Amstad on the website of the Historical Alpine Archives of the Alpine Associations in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol, p. 2. Accessed on October 3, 2016. (PDF, 954 kB)
  3. ↑ Bruno Müller: With hemp rope and magnesia. Uri alpinism and its history. Self-published by Bruno Müller, Altdorf 1998, pp. 100-102.
  4. ↑ Hans Flachsmann: Alfred Amstad-Roth, 1912–1973. In: The Uto. News from the Uto section of the Swiss Alpine Club. 52nd Volume, No. 9, 1973, pp. 164-165.
  5. ↑ Hans Flachsmann: Alfred Amstad-Roth, 1912–1973. In: The Alps. Monthly bulletin of the Swiss Alpine Club. 49th Volume, No. 10, 1973, pp. 247-248.
  6. ↑ Swiss Alpine Club (Ed.): Urner Alpen West (= Urner Alps . Volume 2). 8th edition. Verlag des SAC, Zurich 1986, ISBN 3-85902-013-7 , p. 372.
  7. ↑ Alfred Amstad: La Krönten par le south tower. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 13th year, 1937, pp. 398-400.
  8. ^ Alfred Amstad: La première ascension de la crête sud du Salbitschyn, 2989 meters. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 12th year, 1936, pp. 352–357.
  9. ↑ Swiss Alpine Club (Ed.): Urner Alpen West (= Urner Alps . Volume 2). 8th edition. Verlag des SAC, Zurich 1986, ISBN 3-85902-013-7 , p. 192.
  10. ↑ Swiss Alpine Club (Ed.): Urner Alpen West (= Urner Alps . Volume 2). 8th edition. Verlag des SAC, Zurich 1986, ISBN 3-85902-013-7 , p. 175.
  11. ^ Alfred Amstad: La première ascension de la crête est du Schneestock, 3611 mètres. In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 12th year, 1936, pp. 238–240.
  12. ↑ Swiss Alpine Club (Ed.): Urner Alpen West (= Urner Alps . Volume 2). 8th edition. Verlag des SAC, Zurich 1986, ISBN 3-85902-013-7 , p. 371.
personal data
SURNAME Amstad, Alfred
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH May 31, 1912
PLACE OF BIRTH Beckenried
DATE OF DEATH July 11, 1973
Place of death Zurich