Erhard Loretan

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Erhard Loretan (born April 28, 1959 in Bulle ; † April 28, 2011 in Fieschertal ) was a Swiss mountain climber . In 1995, he was the second climber to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without additional oxygen, and the third overall . Loretan was both a qualified carpenter and mountain guide and died when a rope team he led fell.

Career

Loretan, who lived in Crésuz in the Freiburg Pre-Alps , climbed his first mountain at the age of eleven, the 1848 meter high Dent de Broc . Just four years later, he managed his first demanding climbing tour, the east ridge of the Doldenhorn (3645 m). By the age of 18, Loretan had an impressive number of extreme routes in his tour book, such as: B. Western pinnacle north face, Matterhorn north face, Mont Blanc Peuterey ridge and much more. In 1981 he received the Swiss mountain guide diploma.

His mountaineering tactic was to be as fast as possible and with little luggage. He became very famous with a lightning climb on Mount Everest in the north face almost in the fall line from the foot of the Rongpu Glacier . It climbed up and down in less than 40 hours and mainly climbed at night because of the danger of avalanches. He wasn't even out with a tent, just a shovel to dig a snow cave and bivouack. He and his climbing partner descended over 3000 meters from the summit in less than six hours.

This technique implied risks, as Loretan carried less food and equipment, but also reduced risks because he could climb faster (than a mountaineer with the usual equipment and food) and was in the death zone for a shorter time on eight-thousanders .

In 1987, Loretan had the idea of holding a competition called Patrouille des Poyets ; after 1992, this resulted in the Trophée des Gastlosen .

In 1986 he managed a new, very difficult route with Wojciech Kurtyka at the Nameless Trango Tower of the Trango Towers .

He climbed his 14th eight-thousander, the Kangchenjunga , in 1995. On the mountain there was a kind of race with Benoît Chamoux , who at that time had also climbed 13 eight-thousander by his own count. While Loretan became the third person to stand on all eight-thousanders, Chamoux died about 50 m below the summit.

In 1996, The King Albert I Memorial Foundation, registered in Zurich, presented Erhard Loretan with the King Albert Medal of Merit for opening "new dimensions in modern alpinism" . According to the certificate, Loretan has made his dreams come true without succumbing to the pressures of expectations of the media, the pursuit of publicity or the lure of commercial mountaineering.

On April 28, 2011, his 52nd birthday, Loretan died on the Grünhorn in the municipality of Fieschertal . He was the leader of a twosome. His 38-year-old companion pulled him down with him; she survived the crash seriously injured.

Infanticide

In December 2001, Loretan inflicted a fatal shaking trauma on his then seven-month-old son after the child had screamed for a long time. In 2003 he was sentenced to four months probation. He agreed to have his name published to draw attention to the dangers of "baby shaking".

Special alpine achievements

Book publication

  • Erhard Loretan and Jean Ammann: Falling for the mountains. Paulusverlag, Freiburg 1996, ISBN 3722803969 . Preview in Google Book Search
  • Erhard Loretan: Himalaya: Regards /views / Reflections Paulusverlag, Freiburg 1998, ISBN 3722804426

Filmography

  • White Out - Solo in the 80th EMC . Directed by Romolo Nottaris , 1996.
  • Höhenrausch - the extreme mountaineer Erhard Loretan. (Original: Erhard Loretan, respirer l'odeur du ciel ). Director: Benoît Aymon, 2011. ( Online video, French )

See also

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Conversation with Erhard Loretan ( memento from May 23, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) in the NZZ Folio magazine
  2. ↑ List of the award winners
  3. ↑ a b mountain guide Loretan killed in crash - brilliant career and private tragedy in: Tages-Anzeiger from April 29, 2011
  4. ↑ Erhard Loretan killed in crash in: NZZ Online from April 29, 2011
  5. ^ Documentation Höhenrausch about the extreme mountaineer Erhard Loretan. In: presseportal.de from November 20, 2012
  6. ^ Walliser Nachrichten in February 2003 , February 11, 2003
  7. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski : Ascents - Nanga Parbat. ( PDF , approx. 49 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  8. ↑ a b c d e f g h i Thomas Mitterer: Erhard Loretan. In: bergfieber.de. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  9. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Gasherbrum I. ( PDF , approx. 57 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  10. ^ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - K2. ( PDF , approx. 48 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  11. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Everest. ( PDF , approx. 355 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  12. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Shisha Pangma. ( PDF , approx. 55 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
  13. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Ascents - Kangchenjunga. ( PDF , approx. 42 KB) In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 4, 2010 .
personal data
SURNAME Loretan, Erhard
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss mountain climbers
DATE OF BIRTH April 28, 1959
PLACE OF BIRTH Cop
DATE OF DEATH April 28, 2011
Place of death Fieschertal