Marcel Rüedi

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Marcel Rüedi (often also Marcel Ruedi ; born November 1, 1938 in Winterthur , † September 25, 1986 at Makalu ) was a Swiss mountaineer . He reached the summit of an eight-thousander ten times .

In 1980 Rüedi climbed his first eight-thousander with the Dhaulagiri . In 1981 he started a new route on the north face of the Eiger . In 1983, together with Erhard Loretan and Jean-Claude Sonnenwyl, he managed to climb the three main peaks of the Gasherbrum group within 15 days (June 16-30), reaching Gasherbrum I via a new route variant. In 1984 he climbed the peaks of Manaslu (April 30th) and Nanga Parbat (June 3rd). With that he had climbed five eight-thousanders in just twelve months. In 1985 Rüedi was the first Swiss to climb the K2 together with Norbert Joos . In the same year he reached the Shisha Pangma Central with Oswald Oelz and Diego Wellig .

In 1986 he was the first Swiss to stand on the summit of Cho Oyu together with Peter Habeler . Together with Krzysztof Wielicki, he climbed the Makalu on a new route variant in the same year. Wielicki reached the summit a few hours before Rüedi and was able to descend into the top bivouac ; Rüedi couldn't do this. Reinhold Messner , who was at Makalu at the same time, saw Rüedi slowly descend from the summit the following day. Messner himself was at Makalu La at about 7400  m at this time . Rüedi is said to have slowly but apparently safely descended the mountain to around 8000  m . Tea had already been made for him in the camp when he disappeared behind a ridge of snow and never appeared again. Messner later found Rüedi sitting, just below his camp, dead in the snow.

Individual evidence

  1. Short biography on Marcel Rüedi, accessed on January 5, 2009
  2. Eberhard Jurgalski : Ascent and route lists for the 8000ers at www.8000ers.com, accessed on January 5, 2009
  3. Messner, Reinhold: Survived - All 14 eight-thousanders, page 220

Web links