Gasherbrum group

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Gasherbrum group
The west sides of Gasherbrum IV, VII, V and VI (from left to right) from the Baltoro Glacier

The west sides of Gasherbrum IV, VII, V and VI (from left to right) from the Baltoro Glacier

Highest peak Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) ( 8080  m )
location Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ),
Xinjiang ( PR China )
part of Baltoro Muztagh in the Karakoram
Gasherbrum Group (Pakistan)
Gasherbrum group
Coordinates 35 ° 44 '  N , 76 ° 42'  E Coordinates: 35 ° 44 '  N , 76 ° 42'  E
Type Fold Mountains
surface 150 km²
particularities Mountain group with three eight-thousanders
The Gasherbrum group from space. Left the Gasherbrum cauldron with the southern Gasherbrum glacier, which flows into the Abruzzi glacier.

The Gasherbrum group from space. Left the Gasherbrum cauldron with the southern Gasherbrum glacier, which flows into the Abruzzi glacier.

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The Gasherbrum Group is a mountain range up to 8080 meters high in the Baltoro Muztagh in the inner Karakoram .

With three eight-thousanders , it is the destination of many alpinists and trekking tourists. It is located in the border area between the Pakistani autonomous region of Gilgit-Baltistan and China ( Shaksgam Valley ) in the disputed Kashmir region . The Indian- controlled area of ​​the Siachen Glacier begins a few kilometers away.

The highest mountain in the group is the Hidden Peak , also called Gasherbrum I, at 8080 meters . Broad Peak ( 8051  m ) and Gasherbrum II ( 8034  m ) are only slightly lower . The most striking mountain when approaching from the west is Gasherbrum IV ( 7932  m ), namesake of the massif.

Discovery story

View from the southeast ridge of the K2 (approx. 7700 m) to the south: v. l. No. the peaks of G I, G II, G III and G IV as well as the central and main peaks of Broad Peak, including Broad Peak Nord.

In 1856, the German explorer Adolf von Schlagintweit was probably the first European to reach the area of ​​the Baltoro Glacier , which allows access to the Gasherbrum group from the west. In the same year, British surveyor Thomas George Montgomerie mapped the peaks of the Karakoram from a distance, naming them K1 for Masherbrum , K2 , K3 for Broad Peak, K4 for Gasherbrum II and K5 for Hidden Peak. The K stands for Karakoram. In 1861 Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen was the first to come near the mountains and also to draw up an overview map. Francis Younghusband became the first European to cross the nearby Old Muztagh Pass from China in 1887.

In 1909 Luigi Amedeo di Savoia , Duke of Abruzzo, carried out a large expedition to the Baltoro area. It was recognized for the first time that the mountains between Broad Peak and Hidden Peak were a continuous chain. The chain was initially referred to as Broad-Gasherbrum-Range , because Broad Peak was wrongly determined to be 8,270 meters, which made it (until 1926) the sixth highest mountain on earth and the highest mountain in the group.

In 1926 the English major Kenneth Mason explored the Shaksgam valley on behalf of the Survey of India . The glaciers to the west of the valley leading to the Gasherbrum group were not yet entered, but the mountains could be mapped and measured from the east; the height of Broad Peak has been corrected.

The Hidden Peak (8080 m) is the highest mountain in the Gasherbrum group. The south wall can be seen here.

Another large Italian expedition led by Aimone di Savoia-Aosta, Duke of Spoleto , was dedicated to exploring the Baltoro area in 1929. Unlike the Duke of Abruzzo's expedition in 1909, which aimed to climb K2 and other high mountains, his nephew's company was interested in geographical and geological knowledge gained with the help of Professor Ardito Desio . In particular, the Upper Baltoro Glacier and the Abruzzi Glacier could be explored as access to the Gasherbrumkessel. Desio - finally head of the K2 first ascent expedition in 1954 - also crossed the Eastern Muztagh Pass to China and explored the Shaksgam Valley. In doing so he advanced to the Urdok glacier; he managed to almost completely circumnavigate the eight-thousand-meter region of the Karakoram.

The German geologist and mountaineer Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth , who had explored the Kangchenjunga in 1930 , led the International Himalayan Expedition ("IHE 1934") in 1934, which also had the area above the Upper Baltoro Glacier as its destination. In addition to the first ascent of Sia Kangri, south of Hidden Peak, his team managed to climb over the icefall of the southern Gasherbrum Glacier into the Gasherbrum Basin and to Gasherbrum La, the saddle between Gasherbrum II and Hidden Peak.

etymology

The west wall of Gasherbrum IV, shining in the evening light.
The picture illustrates the assumption that Gasherbrum means "luminous wall".

The name Gasherbrum comes from the Balti language, a Sino-Tibetan dialect , and is often translated as "Luminous Wall", based on the western walls of the massif that shine in the evening light - especially Gasherbrum IV. Dyhrenfurth learned this translation from locals during the 1934 IHE , but admitted that it was not entirely clear. The meaning of the morphemes is now known, the name is composed of “rgasha” (beautiful) and “brum” (mountain), so it means “beautiful mountain”. The names of the mountains are often abbreviated with the first letter G and the respective (Roman) number.

The abbreviations of the mountain names introduced by Montgomerie are no longer in use today. Only K2 - the second highest mountain on earth and northern neighbor of the Gasherbrum Group - is still known by the Montgomery name. Later explorers mostly adopted the mountain names of the residents of the area. Because of their remoteness, there were no indigenous names for mountains such as K2, Broad Peak or Hidden Peak. The English names were coined by the British mountaineer and researcher William Martin Conway in 1892. The Hidden Peak (in German hidden mountain ) got its name because it can only be seen very late when approaching from the Upper Baltoro Glacier . The shape of the mountain with its long summit ridge inspired him for the name of Broad Peak (roughly "Breitspitze / -gipfel"). The sight of the mountain reminded Conway of the Breithorn in the Valais Alps. Falchan (or Phalchan ) Kangri , the translation of his English name into the Balti language, is not accepted by the residents. Its central peak, Broad Peak Central , has the Chinese name Zhongyang , which also means central / central. (It has long been debated whether this 8,011  m high summit should be considered the “15th eight-thousander”.)

In linguistic usage, a distinction is occasionally made between Broad Peak and the Gasherbrum Group (i.e. the mountains that bear this name), but geographically speaking, Broad Peak is part of the group.

Important mountains and peaks of the Gasherbrum group

Gasherbrum group
Mountain / peak height Chart difference reference Notch
1 Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) 8080  m 2155  m K2 Skyang La ( 5925  m )
2 Broad Peak 8051  m 1701  m GI 6350  m
3 Gasherbrum II 8034  m 1523  m GI Gasherbrum La ( 6511  m )
4th Broad Peak Central * 8011  m 191  m Broad Peak Broad Col 7820  m
5 Gasherbrum III * 7946  m 355  m G II 7591  m
6th Gasherbrum IV 7932  m 712  m G III 7220  m
7th Gasherbrum East * 7758  m 170  m G II 7588  m
8th Broad Peak North Summit 7490  m 212  m Broad Peak 7278  m
9 Urdok I ** 7250  m 270  m GI 6980  m
10 Gasherbrum V 7147  m 654  m GI South Col ( 6493  m )
11 Gasherbrum I South ( G 0 ) ** 7109  m not specified GI k. A.
12 Nakpo Kangri 6984  m 718  m GI Nakpo La ( 6266  m )
13 Gasherbrum VI 6979  m 539  m GV 6450  m
14th Gasherbrum VII (GV North West) * 6955  m 165  m GV 6790  m
15th Kharut kangri *** 6942  m 402  m Broad Peak 6540  m
16 Twins **** 6882  m k. A. GV? k. A.

* Secondary peak or relatively independent main peak
** Secondary peak of Hidden Peak or relatively independent main peak
*** Secondary peak of Broad Peak
**** Secondary peak of Gasherbrum VII

geology

As part of the Himalayan system, the Karakoram is a mountain range of folds and is formed as a result of plate tectonics when the Indian and Eurasian plates collide . The mountain building process is not yet complete, in some places the Karakoram is still growing by up to five centimeters per year.

The rock stratification in the Karakoram is very different from region to region. It consists of thin, black slates , dolomite or shell limestone. While the western parts of the Karakoram ( Trango Group , Latok Group , Ogre ) consist of red-yellow granite , the entire Gasherbrum Group is made up of brittle limestone . Its high proportion of crystalline minerals ensures the eponymous “glow” of the west side of the mountains in the evening sun.

geography

The Baltoro region as seen from the ISS . On the right the Gasherbrum group (F, G0-G7, H, N).
The Gasherbrum Group above the Baltoro Glacier (excluding Broad Peak)

Access

Access to the Baltoro area is from the southwest. The starting point Skardu in the Indus Valley is approached from Islamabad , this city can also be reached by road from the Karakoram Highway (KKH). From there the trail goes through the gorges of the Shigar and Braldu rivers . There is now a jeep road as far as the village of Askole, the last settlement before the Inner Karakoram. From here the footpath follows through the gorge of the Braldu River, which leads the waters of the Baltoro Glacier to Shigar and on to the Indus. When approaching over the Baltoro Glacier from the glacier tongue to the east, the west face of Gasherbrum IV increasingly determines the panorama. The main stream of the Baltoro begins in Concordiaplatz , where the Godwin-Austen Glacier coming from the north joins the Upper Baltoro Glacier , which begins in the south-southeast, and flows off to the west as the Baltoro Glacier.

From the Hushetal south of the Masherbrum, it is possible to cross over the Gondogoro La , a 5620 meter high pass between Gondogoro and Vigneglacier . The Vignegletscher flows into the Upper Baltoro Glacier near Concordiaplatz, southeast of Miter Peak . Trekking travelers choose this route as the way back, while the approach takes place over the Baltoro Glacier.

The Chinese side of the Gasherbrum Group cannot be reached via Askole, but via the KKH from Pakistan or in China by plane to Kashgar in the Uyghur Autonomous Region of Xinjiang . From there the route goes via Yarkant into the hinterland of the Kunlun Shan , from where the journey can only be continued as a long march with camels as load carriers. Over the 4780 meter high Aghil pass you get to the Shaksgam valley on the north or east side of the mountains.

Topography of the group

Broad Peak: Central (far left) and main peaks as well as Gasherbrum IV (right) from the Baltoro Glacier

The Gasherbrum group has a north-south extension of about 30 kilometers and a west-east extension of about 15 kilometers. It extends over an area of ​​around 450 square kilometers. The main ridge is formed by an often branched, "about 50 kilometers long wall of large rock and icebergs" with a height difference of 6350 to 8080 meters.

The Gasherbrum Group consists of three subordinate mountain stocks. From north to south these are:

  • The Broad Peak , with north, middle and main summit, which sinks to the south in its lowest notch down to 6350 m to Broad Saddle , from there the northwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV rises.
  • The actual Gasherbrum group , consisting of Gasherbrum II, III and IV; Also included are the mountains Gasherbrum V and VI with their sub-peaks, which connect to the southern ridge of Gasherbrum IV.
  • The hidden peak that connects to Gasherbrum II at Gasherbrum La. Its southeast ridge extends as an Urdok ridge to the multi-peaked Sia Kangri. There is no clear geographical demarcation between Gasherbrum I and Sia Kangri, but the Gasherbrum group, which belongs to the Baltoro Muztagh, ends at the Abruzzi Saddle between Hidden Peak and Sia Kangri. The latter is part of the Siachen Muztagh .
The Gasherbrum I from the southwest, in the middle the so-called western bulwark with the southern summit, on the far right the Urdok I.

Seen from the southwest, the mountains from GI to GVI form a horseshoe-shaped ridge. Some peaks in between are not considered to be independent mountains due to their too low notch height or dominance . In the southeast the ridge begins with the southern summit of Hidden Peak (Hidden South) and extends counterclockwise to the north (Hidden Peak, the Pass Gasherbrum La), northwest (G East), west (G II, G III, G IV) , South-south-west (G VII) and again to the south-east (GV, G VI). The semicircle is open to the south-southeast. The southern Gasherbrum Glacier rises in this horseshoe, the partially flat Gasherbrum Glacier, which flows between Gasherbrum I (or Hidden South) and Gasherbrum VI via an ice break into the Abruzzi Glacier , which in turn joins the Upper Baltoro Glacier shortly afterwards.

The Urdok Glacier approaches the east side of the Sia Kangri and flows along the northeast side of the Urdok ridge and the Hidden Peaks from south to north, is fed there by other hanging glaciers and flows into the Shaksgam Valley, which is directed by the Shaksgam River North is drained.

The northern Gasherbrum Glacier begins on the north side of G II and III, as well as northeast of G IV, flows north past the east side of Broad Peak and then turns east. It flows into the Shaksgam valley shortly after the Urdok glacier.

To the east of Gasherbrum I are the Sagan Pass ( 5800  m ) and Sagan Peak ( 5749  m ) as well as several unnamed peaks. The Sagan Glacier runs north of Sagan Peak and carries the snow masses from Gasherbrum La and thus from the eastern sides of G I and G II to the Urdok Glacier. To the north of it (as an extension of the G-II northeast ridge) there are a series of unnamed peaks with heights between 4730 and 6038 meters on an elongated ridge. This ridge forms the north-eastern limit of the Gasherbrum Group.

Gasherbrum IV, VII (with cloud) and VI as well as the Baltoro Kangri in the back right

The Eastern Nakpo Glacier and the Nakpo Peaks are located between the unnamed peaks in the east and the Northern Gasherbrum Glacier in the west and north and thus under the north face of G II and G III . These are not quite 7000 meters high and are partially separated by the western Nakpo glacier. The two Nakpo glaciers flow from south to north to the northern Gasherbrum glacier. The Nakpo Peaks at the Spur Tower, a 7476 meter high summit on the ridge between G III and G IV, are connected to the main ridge of the Gasherbrum Group.

Watershed and state border

The watershed between the Baltoro Glacier and Shaksgam Valley and thus between the Indian Ocean and the Tarim Basin runs over the main ridge of the Baltoro Muztagh. At the same time, the watershed represents the border between Pakistan and China. Seen from south to north, the border runs over the Urdok ridge and the summit of the Hidden Peak to Gasherbrum La, from there over Gasherbrum East, G II and G III and over the northeast ridge of the G IV to its summit ridge. This continues to rise to the south to the main summit of Gasherbrum IV, which is not on the watershed and therefore only in Pakistan. The border continues from the north end of the G-IV summit ridge down the northwest ridge of the mountain to Broad Saddle . Here it rises again to Broad Peak and runs over its main, fore and middle peaks, where it branches off to the east and over lower peaks to the "Saddle of the Winds", where the Gasherbrum group ends. The northern summit of Broad Peak is northwest of the watershed and thus in Pakistan.

On Pakistani territory, next to the summit of Gasherbrum IV, the mountains in its southeast ridge, G V, G VI and their secondary peaks are located. In addition, the southern summit of Hidden Peak is on the Pakistani side. China includes u. a. the Nakpo Peaks and the peaks east of the Sagan Glacier.

Surroundings

In the north - and only separated from Broad Peak by the Godwin Austen Glacier - lies the Gasherbrum Group's best-known neighbor, the K2, which towers over even the highest peaks of the Gasherbrum Group by almost 600 meters.

Sunrise on Gondogoro La. In the background K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV, III and II

West of Broad Peak and thus beyond the Godwin-Austen Glacier there are a. the mountains Skil Brum and Muztagh Tower , which, like the group itself, belong to the Baltoro Muztagh chain . The Southwestern neighbor of the Gasherbrum Group is the Baltoro Kangri , which towers over the Upper Baltoro Glacier as seen from Concordiaplatz and which towers behind the Southern Gasherbrum Glacier when viewed from the Gasherbrum Basin. Like the hipped roof-shaped Chogolisa , which connects to the west, and Miter Peak on the southwest side of the Baltoros, it belongs to the Masherbrum Mountains .

The Abruzzi Glacier rises between Hidden Peak and Baltoro Kangri on the Conway saddle. This pass currently marks the border between the Pakistani and Indian controlled parts of Kashmir .

The elongated southeast ridge of the Hidden Peak is also known as the Urdok ridge. The highest peak on this ridge is Urdok I ( 7250  m ) before the ridge rises again to the 7422 meter high Sia Kangri , which belongs to the Siachen Muztagh. The Siachen Glacier rises between Sia Kangri and Baltoro Kangri, on the other side of the Conway Saddle, and the Saltoro Mountains rise up on its southwest side .

To the east of the Gasherbrum Group, on the orographic right-hand side of the Shaksgam Valley, there are red-brown to yellow-gray limestone mountains up to over 6000 meters high, which Kurt Diemberger calls the “Shaksgam Dolomites”.

Ascent history

Broad Peak Base Camp on the central moraine of Godwin Austen Glacier. Looking north to the K2.

Outstanding ascents are listed here, which in the best case scenario affect several mountains in the group. Detailed climbing chronicles can also be found on the pages of the individual mountains.

The base camp for ascents of G I, G II and G III (from the Pakistani side) is still on the Abruzzi Glacier at 5150 m below the icefall of the southern Gasherbrum Glacier. Only the advanced base camps are then near the mountains to be climbed. Broad Peak Base Camp is on the Godwin-Austen Glacier. Since most of the other peaks have not yet been climbed, it is not possible to specify the base camp.

First ascents

After the K2 was "conquered" by an Italian expedition in 1954 , the high peaks of the Gasherbrum group no longer remained terrae incognitae . The Austrians Fritz Moravec , Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart reached the summit of Gasherbrum II on July 7, 1956. On June 9 of the following year, the Austrians Marcus Schmuck , Fritz Wintersteller , Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl succeeded in climbing Broad Peak in the Western Alpine style . Pete Schoening and Andrew Kauffman finally conquered Hidden Peak on July 5, 1958 as members of an American expedition. On August 6 of the same year, the Italians Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri climbed Gasherbrum IV over its northeast ridge. As a result of the developments that led to the Second Indo-Pakistani War , the Pakistani government closed the Karakoram Mountains from 1961 to 1974. The Gasherbrum III could not be climbed until 1975 by the Polish women Wanda Rutkiewicz , Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz and their compatriots Janusz Onyszkiewicz and Krystof Zdzitowiecki. This was the highest first ascent by a woman - an achievement that can no longer be surpassed.

Other significant ascents

In the gas boiler. Camp II ( 5900  m ) and G III, G II, G East (from left to right)

In 1975, the second ascent of Gasherbrum II was made by a French expedition led by Y. Seigneur (members of the two Polish expeditions were also successful) and the Hidden Peak by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler , who for the first time climbed an eight-thousander in pure alpine style. The summit of Broad Peak was not reached for the second time until two years later. In the 1980s, the eight-thousander of the Gasherbrum group were regularly the destination of expeditions, since the 1990s at the latest, Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak have been considered relatively easy to climb eight-thousander and are the destinations of numerous expeditions, including commercial ones. Despite its remoteness, the G II is the most frequently climbed eight-thousander after Mount Everest and Cho Oyu.

Erhard Loretan and Marcel Rüedi - members of a Swiss expedition - climbed all three eight-thousanders of the Gasherbrum group in alpine style in just 15 days in the summer of 1983, their expedition companion Jean-Claude Sonnenwyl was on the road two days longer.

In 1984 the South Tyroleans Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander succeeded in double crossing Gasherbrum II and I in alpine style without intermediate descent into a fortified camp. This expedition was documented by Werner Herzog with the film Gasherbrum - The Shining Mountain . Jean-Christophe Lafaille managed the double ascent of G II and G I single-handedly in 1996, also without any intermediate descent to base camp.

The Polish alpinists Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka crossed all three peaks of Broad Peak from north to south via north, middle and main peaks in July 1984.

The western face of Gasherbrum IV, which was long thought to be impossible to climb, was climbed by the Austrian Robert Schauer and the Pole Wojciech Kurtyka in alpine style in July 1985.

First winter ascents

Simone Moro , Denis Urubko and Cory Richards managed the first complete winter ascent of Gasherbrum II on February 2, 2011. This makes Gasherbrum II the first of the four eight-thousanders in the Karakoram and the five eight-thousanders in Pakistan to be climbed in winter.

On March 9, 2012, the two Poles Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb managed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I.

As early as 1988, the Pole Maciej Berbeka announced that he had made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak on March 6, 1988. Snow drifts on the summit ridge blocked the view. According to photos, Beberka admitted that he had only reached the 8,013 meter high pre-summit.

East Side

Only recently have attempts been made to climb the inaccessible eastern side of China. The first ascent of a summit from the Shaksgam Valley was achieved by members of a Spanish expedition, among them Oscar Cadiach , who climbed the central summit of Broad Peak in 1992 . Only 15 and 16 years later, respectively, did two more ascents on the north face of Gasherbrum II: The Swiss mountaineers Ueli Steck , Hans Mitterer and Cedric Hählen reached the 7,772 meter high east summit on July 7, 2006. In 2007 the Italians Karl Unterkircher , Daniele Bernasconi and Michele Compagnoni mastered the complete ascent of the north face in the Direttissima for the first time and reached the summit on July 20th. By descending the south side, they made the first crossing of the Gasherbrum group from China to Pakistan. The north and east sides of Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum III and IV as well as the Broad Peak main summit have not yet been climbed.

literature

Web links

Commons : Gasherbrum Group  - album containing pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Roberto Mantovani, Kurt Diemberger: K2 - Himalaya. The big challenge. Bindlach 2004, pages 20 and 32ff.
  2. ↑ DeFilippi, p. 314 (PDF: p. 384, see literature)
  3. ^ GO Dyhrenfurth: To the third pole. The eight-thousanders on earth. Munich, 1952, p. 234
  4. ^ GO Dyhrenfurth: To the third pole. The eight-thousanders on earth. Munich, 1952, p. 235
  5. ^ GO Dyhrenfurth: To the third pole. The eight-thousanders on earth. Munich, 1952, p. 100 and p. 227f.
  6. ↑ Rollo Steffens: Fascination Karakoram. The wild mountains of Asia , p. 119f.
  7. ^ GO Dyhrenfurth: To the third pole. The eight-thousanders on earth. Munich, 1952, p. 228
  8. ^ GO Dyhrenfurth: To the third pole. The eight-thousanders on earth. Munich, 1952, p. 226
  9. ^ A b Carter, H. Adams: Balti Place Names in the Karakoram. In: American Alpine Journal 1975 (AAJ Online) (PDF file; 1.7 MB)
  10. ↑ Carter, H. Adams: A Note on the Chinese Name for K2, "Qogir". In: American Alpine Journal 1983 (AAJ Online)
  11. ↑ a b c http://www.broadpeak.at/broad_peak.php
  12. ↑ Archive link ( Memento of the original from April 4, 2005 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.extrem-collect.de
  13. ↑ Rollo Steffens: Fascination Karakoram. The wild mountains of Asia , p. 28
  14. ↑ Kurt Diemberger: Departure into the Unknown. Adventure between K2, Sinkiang and the Amazon. Munich 2007, p. 59
  15. ↑ Rollo Steffens: Fascination Karakoram. The wild mountains of Asia , p. 29
  16. ^ GO Dyhrenfurth: To the third pole. The eight-thousanders on earth. Munich, 1952, pp. 226–233 (Hidden Peak), pp. 234–237 (Broad Peak), pp. 238–243 (The actual Gasherbrum group)
  17. ↑ Satellite map with detailed labeling , accessed on November 5, 2012
  18. ↑ Kurt Diemberger: Departure into the Unknown. Adventure between K2, Sinkiang and the Amazon. Munich 2007, p. 59, p. 287
  19. ↑ Rollo Steffens: Fascination Karakoram. The wild mountains of Asia , p. 126
  20. ↑ Unless otherwise noted, the books GI and GII. Challenge Gasherbrum taken from Reinhold Messner (see literature)
  21. ↑ Ascent statistics from Eberhard Jurgalski (www.8000ers.com)
  22. ^ Jozef Nyka: Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II, Enchainment. In: American Alpine Journal 1997, p. 329 (AAJ online) , accessed March 16, 2012.
  23. ^ Wojciech Kurtyka: Broad Peak, Northwest Ridge, Traverse of the North, Central and Main Summits. In: American Alpine Journal 1985 (AAJO).
  24. ^ Wojciech Kurtyka: The Shining Wall of Gasherbrum IV. In: American Alpine Journal 1986 (AAJO).
  25. ↑ Historic winter summit success on Gasherbrum II . Report on the first ascent on www.bergstieg.at ( memento of the original from August 17, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , accessed March 16, 2012. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.bergstieg.at
  26. ↑ GREAT SUCCESS OF POLISH HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINEERS - GASHERBRUM I (8.068 m above sea level) HAS BEEN CONQUERED IN WINTER FOR THE FIRST TIME . Report on the expedition's website. ( Memento of the original from March 11, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Retrieved March 16, 2012.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl
  27. ↑ Broad Peak Corrections, 1986-1987. In: American Alpine Journal 1989, p. 243 (AAJ online). Retrieved March 16, 2012.
  28. ^ Oscar Cadiach: Broad Peak Central from China. In American Alpine Club Journal 1993, pp. 39-48. (AAJO)
  29. ^ Homepage of the expedition organization of the G II north hike first climb with ascent diary ( memento of January 4, 2009 in the Internet Archive ), accessed on November 17, 2012.
  30. ↑ http://www.karlunterkircher.com/de/expeditionen_gasherbrum2.htm