Masherbrum
| Masherbrum | ||
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 The Masherbrum from the south from the Hushe valley |
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| height | 7821 m | |
| location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
| Mountains | Masherbrum Mountains ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 30.6 km → Broad Peak | |
| Notch height | 2457 m ↓ Masherbrum La ( 5364 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 35 ° 38 ′ 34 " N , 76 ° 18 ′ 17" E | |
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| First ascent | July 6, 1960 by George Bell and Willi Unsoeld | |
| Normal way | Glaciated alpine tour | |
 North side of Masherbrum from the Baltoro Glacier |
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The 7,821 m high Masherbrum is the seventh highest mountain in the Karakoram and is located in Gilgit-Baltistan , a special territory in northern Pakistan .
location
It rises between Baltistan in the south and the Baltoro Glacier in the north and, even before the Chogolisa, is the highest peak in the ridge south of the Baltoro Glacier, the Masherbrum Mountains , which belong to the so-called "Little Karakoram". The Masherbrum Glacier flows south from its southwest face to the Hushetal . The southeast side of the mountain drains over the Gondogoro Glacier , which begins further east at Gondogoro La and also flows to the Hushetal. The west, north-west and north-east face feed the Liligo , Mandu and Yermanendu glaciers , which flow north to the Baltoro glacier.
The 7163 m high secondary peak Yermanendu Kangri has not yet been climbed .
Surname
This striking mountain was discovered in 1856 by Thomas George Montgomerie , a member of the British Royal Engineers , and he gave it the name K1 (indicative of summit 1, namely the first of a series of very high mountains in the Karakoram when viewed from west to east). The locals call the mountain Masherbrum. This name is probably made up of the mashadar ( muzzle loader ) and brum (mountain) morphemes . (The omission of final syllables in compound words is common in the Balti language.) The name refers to the similarity of the mountain with an old rifle.
Routes to the summit
Probably the easiest, albeit not easy route leads over the southeast ridge, which can be reached via the Masherbrum Glacier, which flows south. Access is not from the Baltoro Glacier, but from the south via the Hushe Valley, which is accessed from the Shyok not far from its mouth in the Indus . The first ascent took place in 1960 by a US-Pakistani expedition. On July 6, 1960, George Irving Bell (1926-2000) and Willi Unsoeld were successful. On July 8, 1960, Jawed Akhter and Nick Clinch also reached the summit.
The 7806 meter high south-west summit was the destination of a Polish expedition in 1981. Andrzej Heinrich , Marek Malatynski and Przemyslaw Nowacki reached the highest unclimbed peak of the Karakoram on September 17th. During the descent, Malatynski and Nowacki froze to death in the night emergency bivouac on the southwest ridge. Heinrich survived because he was the only one to bivouack on the leeward side of the ridge. On the further descent, he fell and fell about 200 to 300 meters without seriously injuring himself, and reached the base camp safely.
In 1985, with the third and fourth ascent of the mountain, routes on the north side of the mountain were climbed for the first time: the difficult north face was first climbed by Japanese mountaineers under the direction of Shin Kashu. The route led from the Yermanendu glacier to the north ridge, because of the danger of avalanches it was later traversed to the northwest ridge and then into the northwest face. All 10 climbers reached the summit on July 23, 1985. At almost the same time, an Austrian expedition led by Robert Renzler opened another route in the 3600 meter high north-west face. The starting point was the Mandu Glacier. The route offers rock climbing up to the VI. Degree. Michi Larcher, Andreas Orgler and Robert Renzler reached the summit on July 24, 22 hours after the Japanese. A British expedition, however, failed because of the ascent of the east ridge from the Yermanendu Glacier.
literature
- Reinhold Messner, Alessandro Gogna : K2. Mountain of mountains . BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich undated
Web links
- Masherbrum on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Indexing history of the Masherbrum
- Masherbrum in a Google Maps
- Mashberbrum at summitpost.org (ascent history)
Individual evidence
- ^ H. Adams Carter: Balti Place Names in the Karakoram. In: American Alpine Journal 1975 (AAJ Online) (PDF; 1.7 MB), accessed on November 17, 2012.
- ^ William Unsoeld: Masherbrum – 1960. In: American Alpine Journal 1961, pp. 208-229 and picture panels (AAJO). (PDF; 5.1 MB), accessed October 6, 2011.
- ^ Józef Nyka: Masherbrum Southwest, Ascent and Tragedy. In: American Alpine Journal 1982, pp. 271f. (AAJO) , accessed November 17, 2012.
- ↑ Sadao Tambe: Masherbrum from the Northwest and Broad Peak. / Robert Renzler: Masherbrum, Northwest Face. / Michael Searle: Masherbrum Attempt and Geological Expedition. In: American Alpine Journal 1986, pp. 275-278 (AAJO) , accessed October 6, 2011.