Robert Schauer

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Robert Schauer (2019)

Hans-Robert Schauer (born August 27, 1953 in Graz ) is an Austrian mountaineer and filmmaker.

Life

Robert Schauer's passion for the mountains developed during his school days. Books on mountain topics and alpine magazines were the triggers and carriers of this passion. At first it didn't look like a mountaineering career: As a ten-year-old boy, he suffered from chronic lung problems that often took him to the Stolzalpe pulmonary hospital near Murau . The diagnosis remained unclear, chronic bronchial asthma or tuberculosis should be the cause. Long-term therapies ultimately led to healing success.

After finishing school, he completed an apprenticeship as a plumber with his father Josef Schauer, a master glazier and plumber in Graz. He later took up a medical degree, which he broke off in 1981 to work as a professional mountaineer. He financed his ascent through lectures and as an advertising medium. Since climbing Everest in 1978, Schauer has repeatedly worked as a cameraman for mountain films. In 1986 he founded the now annual International Mountain & Adventure Film Festival Graz , which he directs and which celebrated its 22nd edition in 2010. In 1987 he founded Robert Schauer Filmproduktions GesmbH and has since produced numerous mountain films, television programs and industrial films .

Services

Among other things, Robert Schauer climbed five eight-thousanders and in 1978 was the first Austrian to climb Mount Everest , which he climbed a total of three times. The first ascent of the steep west face of Gasherbrum IV with the Pole Wojciech Kurtyka in alpine style in 1985 was outstanding .

Schauer's first participation in an expedition to the highest mountains in the world led him in 1974 to Hispar Muztagh in Karakorum . Under the direction of Alois Furtner, the team, which included Schauer, Georg Bachler, Hilmar Sturm , Hias Schreder and Sepp Portenkirchner, tried unsuccessfully to climb the Pumari Chhish for the first time. Instead, they turned to a likewise unclimbed and so far nameless six-thousander (approx. 6500 m), which was conquered on August 11 by Sturm, Portenkirchner, Schreder and Schauer. Afterwards they named the mountain Skirish Sar , in German about snow pigeon tip . The following year he took part in the Austrian Karakoram expedition to Gasherbrum I (8080 m). Although manager Hanns Schell had only received a permit for the neighboring Baltoro Kangri , they were able to persuade Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler to share their permit for the Hidden Peak; however, both teams acted independently. While Messner and Habeler made the second ascent of the mountain over the north-west face in alpine style, Schauer, Schell and Herbert Zefferer reached the summit on August 11th - one day after Messner and Habeler - on the way of the first climbers. During the expedition, the first ascent of Urdok I was made on August 4th .

An expedition also led by Hanns Schell opened the so-called Schell route on Nanga Parbat ( 8125  m ) in 1976 : Schauer reached the summit on August 11th via the southwest ridge (Mazeno ridge) together with Hanns Schell, Hilmar Sturm and Siegfried Gimpel .

In 1977 Schauer was again on the road with Hanns Schell, this time in the Nun-Kun massif in the Indian Himalayas ( Ladakh ). Karl Hub, Gerhard Pressel and Schell's wife Lilo stood with them on the summit of the 7,077  m high Kun; The originally planned traverse to the 58 meter higher Now was dispensed with.

The west face of Gasherbrum IV. Robert Schauer and Wojciech Kurtyka made the first ascent in 1985.

In 1978 Robert Schauer traveled to the highest mountain on earth with an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz . Schauer managed to climb Mount Everest as part of the first rope team on May 3, together with Horst Bergmann, Nairz expedition leader and the Sherpa Ang Phu. Spurred on by two other participants in the expedition, the then 24-year-old Schauer wanted to try to climb Everest as far as possible without bottled oxygen. From around 8000 m, however, he considered additional oxygen to be indispensable. These two other expedition members, the rope team of Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler , succeeded five days later on the first ascent of the highest mountain on earth without an oxygen mask. In contrast to Schauer, Messner and Habeler had traveled to Everest with this intention. After the ascent, he expressed his interest in the Gasherbrum wall in base camp, which he thought was more attractive than the neighboring K2 . For the following year (1979) he was invited by Reinhold Messner on his K2 expedition. While Messner and Michl Dacher reached the summit, all other members of the expedition failed to succeed due to bad weather.

In 1981 Schauer climbed the fifth highest mountain on earth, the 8485 m high Makalu , without bottled oxygen and from Makalu-La ( 7400  m ) single-handedly. His trip to the Annapurna Himal ended tragically in April 1983. After his companion Klaus Schlamberger fell to his death, Schauer stopped attempting to climb Annapurna II . Schauer had reached a height of 7450  m . In 1984 Schauer climbed Broad Peak ( 8051  m ), his fifth eight-thousander. Schauer was as a cameraman for the ZDF traveled to the Karakorum and filmed his ascent for an expedition film.

The winter ascent of the Eiger north face at the beginning of 1985 was regarded as training for the ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV ( 7,932  m ), which until then was considered to be unclimbable. Robert Schauer and Wojciech Kurtyka managed to climb the 2500 m high steep face in alpine style. After eight days on the wall in partly stormy weather, they reached the summit ridge on July 20th. Due to hunger, thirst and exhaustion, they decided not to use the traverse to the main summit and immediately began the descent over the northwest ridge, which lasted another three days. A subsequent attempt to climb K2, a neighbor of the Gasherbrum group , failed again at an altitude of around 8000  m due to the adverse weather conditions on the mountain.

He received his first commission for an independent film production in 1987 from ITN London. A British team wanted to climb Everest via the northeast ridge. The project failed due to the bad weather, showers reached an altitude of about 8000 m.

In 1996 Schauer climbed Mount Everest for the second time. This time as a member of the film team directed by David Breashears that shot the IMAX film Everest - Summit Without Mercy . Schauer was the cameraman of the summit team. The film inadvertently deals with the disaster on Mount Everest (1996) , but the film work was interrupted to help mountaineers in distress.

In 2000, Schauer worked again with Breashears, this time climbing the highest mountain in Africa as a cameraman for the filming of the IMAX film Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa .

In 2004 Schauer finally stood on the highest mountain in the world for the third time and filmed there with a 35 mm camera for the production company Working Title . A film was planned about the events of the summer of 1996 based on the book In icy Heights by Jon Krakauer . In the film, the dramatic scenes during the snowstorm at that time were to be re-enacted with actors, who, however, were to be shot in the Alps or New Zealand for safety and cost reasons. The film team on Everest, which included Schauer, Breashears and the professional mountaineers Ed Viesturs and Veikka Gustafsson, members of the IMAX film team from 1996, shot (as a second unit ) authentic footage on location that was to be edited for the scenes in the film. Director Stephen Daldry was at base camp while filming. The original concept of the film was ultimately not realized, but Breashears used the footage to produce a documentary ten years after the tragedy in which survivors and eyewitnesses have their say. Remnants of Everest - The 1996 Tragedy finally ran at the mountain and adventure film festival Graz , directed by Schauer , but out of competition.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Robert Schauer: Mountaineering City Graz - So close to the Himalayas ... In: Mountaineering Special . Styria, No. 18 , 2012, p. 89 ff .
  2. ^ Alois Furtner: Climbs And Expeditions. (PDF) In: American Alpine Journal 1975. American Alpine Club, p. 215 , accessed on June 7, 2012 (English).
  3. ↑ Hanns Schell: Climbs And Expeditions. (PDF) In: American Alpine Journal 1976. American Alpine Club, p. 542 , accessed on June 7, 2012 (English).
  4. ^ Max Eiselin: Climbs And Expeditions. (PDF) In: American Alpine Journal 1977. American Alpine Club, pp. 274 f. , accessed on June 7, 2012 .
  5. ^ Günter Hauser: Climbs And Expeditions. (PDF) In: American Alpine Journal 1978. American Alpine Club, p. 611 , accessed on June 7, 2012 (English).
  6. ↑ Peter Habeler: The lonely victory. Mount Everest '78. Wilhelm Goldmann Verlag, Munich 1978, p. 149.
  7. ^ Wolfgang Nairz: Nepal. Wander through and experience. Steiger Verlag, Innsbruck, 1984, p. 57ff.
  8. ↑ Reinhold Messner: Everest. Expedition to the end point. Knaur, Munich 1978, p. 160.
  9. ↑ Reinhold Messner and Alessandro Gogna: Mountain of Mountains, 1980, p 118f.
  10. ^ Robert Schauer: Climbs And Expeditions - Makalu, Solo and Without Oxygen. (PDF) In: American Alpine Journal 1982. American Alpine Club, pp. 205 ff. , Accessed on June 7, 2012 (English).
  11. ↑ Robert Schauer: Climbs And Expeditions 1983 - Annapurna II Tragedy. (PDF) In: American Alpine Journal 1984. American Alpine Club, pp. 252 f. , accessed on June 7, 2012 .
  12. ^ Robert Schauer: Climbs And Expeditions 1984 - Broad Peak. (PDF) In: American Alpine Journal 1985. American Alpine Club, p. 316 , accessed on June 7, 2012 (English).
  13. ↑ a b Biography of Robert Schauer on www.mountainfuture.at ( Memento of the original from October 11, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.mountainfuture.at
  14. ^ Wojciech Kurtyka: The Shining Wall of Gasherbrum IV. In: American Alpine Journal 1986 (AAJO).  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.americanalpineclub.org  
  15. ↑ a b Telephone interview of the Bavarian Broadcasting Corporation with Robert Schauer from August 4, 2008  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.podcast.de  
  16. ↑ Sandy Allen: Climbs and Expeditions. (PDF) In: American Alpine Journal 1988. American Alpine Club, p. 270 , accessed on June 10, 2012 (English).
  17. ↑ http://german.imdb.com/title/tt0120661/
  18. ↑ Robert Schauer in the Internet Movie Database (English)
  19. ↑ expedition report on www.everestnews2004.com
  20. ↑ Film announcement on the website of the Berg & Abenteuerfilmfestival Graz
personal data
SURNAME Shiver, Robert
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Schauer, Hans-Robert (full name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian mountaineer and filmmaker
DATE OF BIRTH August 27, 1953
PLACE OF BIRTH Graz