Gasherbrum IV

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Gasherbrum IV
The west wall of Gasherbrum IV, shining in the evening light

The west wall of Gasherbrum IV, shining in the evening light

height 7932  m
location Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan )
Mountains Gasherbrum Group ( Karakoram )
Dominance 2.37 km →  Gasherbrum III
Notch height 715 m ↓  ( 7217  m )
Coordinates 35 ° 45 '40 "  N , 76 ° 36' 57"  E Coordinates: 35 ° 45 '40 "  N , 76 ° 36' 57"  E
Gasherbrum IV (Karakoram)
Gasherbrum IV
First ascent August 6, 1958 by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri
The west wall of Gasherbrum IV

The west wall of Gasherbrum IV

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The Gasherbrum IV is with 7932  m height the seventeenth highest mountain on earth and the sixth highest peak of the Gasherbrum group , for which it was named. The border between Pakistan and the People's Republic of China runs over its northeast and northwest ridge .

The summit ridge with the main summit is south of the border and thus in Pakistan. When the weather is right, its west wall shines in the evening sun, which is why Gasherbrum is often translated as “luminous wall”. The real meaning is "beautiful mountain".

Ascent history

On August 6, 1958, an Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin, led by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, achieved the first ascent of the G IV over the northeast ridge.

The west face has long been considered one of the last great problems of alpinism . In 1985, the Austrian Robert Schauer and the Pole Wojciech Kurtyka climbed this wall in alpine style , i.e. without porters, high camps, fixed ropes or bottled oxygen. The two reached the north summit, exactly 20 meters lower. Because of the bad weather and their exhaustion, they did not use the traverse over the summit ridge to the main summit.

The main summit was not climbed a second time until June 22, 1986. Greg Child , Tim Macartney-Snape and Tom Hargis were successful over the northwest ridge.

In 1997 a Korean team managed to climb the west face for the second time using a different route.

Web links

Commons : Gasherbrum IV  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth: To the third pole. The eight-thousanders on earth. Munich 1952, p. 238
  2. ^ Himalaya, Pakistan, Gasherbrum IV . American Alpine Journal, 1959, vol. 11.
  3. ^ Wojciech Kurtyka: The Shining Wall of Gasherbrum IV. In: American Alpine Journal 1986 (AAJO). , accessed October 9, 2012.
  4. ↑ a b Gasherbrum IV's Northwest Ridge . American Alpine Journal, 1987, vol. 29
  5. ↑ Jae-hag Jung: The West Face of Gasherbrum IV . American Alpine Journal, 1998, vol. 40.