Jannu

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Jannu
South view of the Jannu

South view of the Jannu

height 7711  m
location Taplejung District ( Nepal )
Mountains Kangchenjunga Himal ( Himalaya )
Dominance 7.57 km →  Kangbachen
Notch height 1036 m ↓  (6675 m)
Coordinates 27 ° 41 '2 "  N , 88 ° 2' 40"  E Coordinates: 27 ° 41 '2 "  N , 88 ° 2' 40"  E
Jannu (Province No. 1)
Jannu
First ascent 28/29 April 1962 by R. Paragot, P. Kellar, R. Desmaison , Sherpa G. Mitchu, J. Ravier, L. Terray , Sherpa Wangdi
Normal way glaciated alpine tour
Jannu from the west, a pass between Olung and Gyalbla

Jannu from the west, a pass between Olung and Gyalbla

The impressive north face of Jannu

The impressive north face of Jannu

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Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD1
Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD2

Of Jannu (also Kumbhakarna ) is a west of Kangchenjunga situated, 7711  m high mountain in the Himalayas , Nepal . It is connected to the Kangchenjunga by a long ridge, but does not count as a secondary peak. It is the 32nd highest mountain on earth . It is mainly known among alpinists for its very demanding northern routes and the extreme climatic conditions (cold and storms).

Kumbhakarna East

The Jannu has a secondary peak, the 1.71 km east-northeast located Kumbhakarna Ost ( 7468  m ⊙ ). This has a notch height of 148 m.

First ascent

The first ascent of the mountain took place on April 28, 1962 by Robert Paragot, Paul Kellar, René Desmaison and the Sherpa Gyalzen Mitchu and on April 29, 1962 by Jean Ravier, Lionel Terray and the Sherpa Wangdi. They chose a route across the Yamatari Glacier south of the mountain to a large plateau called the Throne . The further way went over the southeast ridge to the summit.

Routes on the north side

With a wall height of up to 3000 m, the north flank of the Jannu is one of the largest and most demanding alpine destinations on earth. Well-known mountaineers like Erhard Loretan failed on this rock face.

  • Northwest Face: The first route on the north side of the Jannu was opened by a Japanese expedition in 1976 on the Northwest Face. It has been repeated twice so far, including by an Australian expedition in 2000, which had to give up the attempt to climb a new route for the first time and switched to the Japanese route. The Catalan Jordi Tozas tried in September 2007 single-handedly on a new route in the northwest face, but failed at 6900  m altitude.
  • Northwest ridge: The very long and difficult northwest ridge , on which a French expedition failed in 1994, was first climbed from October 14 to 21, 2007 by the Russians Valeri Babanov and Sergey Kofanov.
  • North face: In 2004 a Russian expedition in the big wall style climbed for the first time through the north face of Jannu, which has long been courted by various top mountaineers and which is one of the most difficult faces to climb. Tomo Česen allegedly found another route on a solo ascent as early as 1989, but it is doubtful whether he even reached the summit.

Web links

Commons : Jannu  - collection of images, videos and audio files

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