Gaston Rébuffat
Gaston Rébuffat (born May 7, 1921 in Marseille , † June 1, 1985 in Paris ) was a French mountaineer and one of the most important personalities in the history of mountaineering .
Life
At the age of 16, Rébuffat discovered rock climbing for himself and quickly became an enthusiastic mountaineer. At the age of 21 he received his mountain guide diploma. He succeeded in numerous difficult mountain tours together with his friend Lionel Terray , who, like himself, was at the forefront of French alpinism. Rébuffat also appeared as a multiple book author. A year before his death, Rébuffat was appointed officer of the French Legion of Honor .
Some of his most important inspections are:
- South-west face of the Aiguille des Pélerins (1st ascent, 1943)
- Frendo pillar of the Aiguille du Midi (2nd ascent, 1943)
- East wall of the Pic de Roc (1st ascent, 1944)
- Northwest face of the Grand Pic de Belledonne (1st ascent, 1944)
- Grandes Jorasses , Walkerpfeiler (2nd ascent, 1945)
- North face of Dent du Requin (1st ascent, 1945)
- Grandes Jorasses , Croz pillar (4th ascent, 1947)
- South face of the Aiguille du Midi (1st ascent, 1956)
- Petit Dru , Bonattippeiler (4th ascent, 1961)
- In 1950 Rébuffat took part in the French expedition that was able to book the first ascent of an eight-thousander , the Annapurna . However, Rébuffat himself did not reach the summit. Together with Lionel Terray, he saved the two first climbers, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal , who would not have made the descent on their own due to exhaustion and frostbite.
- Gaston Rébuffat was the first mountaineer who was able to climb all six major north faces of the Alps - Eiger north face , Grandes Jorasses north face, Matterhorn north face, Piz Badile north face, Petit-Dru north face, Große Zinne north face.
Literature by Gaston Rébuffat
- The Matterhorn. Epic of a Magic Mountain , A. Müller 1965.
- A mountain guide tells , A. Müller 1968.
- In rock and firn , BLV Verl.-Ges./Bayer. Agricultural Ext. 1964.
- Montblanc. The story of its discovery . ISBN 3-7654-2193-6
- Stars and storms. The great north faces of the Alps , GeraNova Bruckmann 1986. ISBN 3-7654-2058-1
- Montblanc. The 100 ideal tours in the Montblanc massif , BLV Buchverlag GmbH & Co. 1975. ISBN 3-405-11485-3
- Between earth and heaven , A. Müller; 2nd edition 1964.
- Between Mont Blanc and the Himalaya , Bruckmann 1955.
Web links
Commons : Gaston Rébuffat - collection of images, videos and audio files
- Literature by and about Gaston Rébuffat in the catalog of the German National Library
Individual evidence
- ^ Maurice Herzog: Annapurna - premier huit mille . Arthaud, Paris 1995, ISBN 978-2-7003-1070-2 .
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Rébuffat, Gaston |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | French climber |
| DATE OF BIRTH | May 7, 1921 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Marseille |
| DATE OF DEATH | June 1, 1985 |
| Place of death | Paris |