Claude Kogan

Claude Kogan (* 1919 in Paris ; † October 2, 1959 at Cho Oyu ) was a French mountaineer .

Life

Claude Kogan lived as a fashion illustrator in Nice . With her husband Georges Kogan († 1951) she undertook numerous ascents in the Alps and the South American Andes.

From 1950 she took part in several important international expeditions (Andes, Caucasus, Greenland, Himalayas). You will get some important first ascents and first ascents. In the fall of 1954, she set the world record for women at Cho Oyu at 7600 meters.

In the fall of 1959 she led a women's expedition on Cho Oyu; when an exceptionally large avalanche struck, she died along with Claudine van der Stratten, Ang Norbu Sherpa and Chowang Sherpa.

Alpinistic services (extract)

• Salcantay , 6271 m ( Cordillera Vilcabamba , Peru), first ascent 1952 together with George Irving Bell , Fred D. Ayres, David Michael Jr., WV Graham Matthews and M. Bernard Pierre
• Quitaraju, 6036 m ( Cordillera Blanca , Peru), ascent in 1952
• Well , 7135 m ( Himalaya , India), first ascent in 1952 together with Pierre Vittoz
• Cho Oyu , 8188 m (Himalaya, Nepal / Tibet) 1954 attempt of a second ascent a few days after the first ascent; Claude Kogan set a new height record for women with 7800 m.
• Yangra Kangri , 7422 m ( Ganesh Himal , Nepal / Tibet) first ascent on October 24, 1955 together with Eric Guachet and Raymond Lambert .

Honors

A primary school in Villeurbanne is named after her.

literature

• Claude Kogan and Raymond Lambert : Record à l'himalaya Hachette Verlag (France, 1963)
• Luisa Francia : The lower heaven. Women in Icy Heights , Nymphenburger Verlag (1999)
• Charlie Buffet: Première de cordée: Claude Kogan, femme gainace et de passion (France, 2003)
• Reinhold Messner : On top. Women at the top , Munich (2010)

swell

1. ↑ Reinhold Messner : On Top. Women at the top , Munich (2010), p. 85ff.