Raymond Lambert

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Swiss Himalayan Expedition, autumn 1952
Swiss Himalayan Expedition 1952 Autumn: in front of an Air India Lockheed L749 Constellation. Participants: (from left) Raymond Lambert, Tensing Norgay , Gabriel Chevalley, Ernst Reiss, Gustav Gross, Norman Dyhrenfurth
Mountain guide badge

Raymond Lambert (born October 18, 1914 in Plainpalais (today Geneva municipality ), † February 24, 1997 in Geneva) was a Swiss mountaineer and mountain guide .

Life

Raymond Lambert lived in Geneva and began mountaineering in the Western Alps when he was 15 . He obtained a ski instructor diploma in 1936 and a mountain guide diploma in 1937. He lost his toes and a few fingers to frostbite on Mont Blanc in 1937 , but accompanied so many people to the summit that he became the first mountain guide who could do his business from Geneva rather than from a remote mountain outpost.

In the course of his life he took part in several important expeditions, including some important first ascents and first ascents (e.g. Petit Dru, Fissure Lambert). In 1952 he was one of the most famous Swiss mountaineers. The two Swiss Himalayan expeditions , in which Lambert and Tenzing took part, explored the route to the south saddle for the first time in the spring and autumn of 1952 and paved the way for the first ascent in 1953 by Tenzing and the New Zealander Edmund Hillary . On the south ridge of Mount Everest , Lambert and Tenzing Norgay set a new world record in the spring of 1952 (approx. 8650 m ). John Hunt , the leader of the British Mount Everest Expedition of 1953 , confirmed that the knowledge that the Swiss expedition had gained a year earlier had been essential for the planning and execution of the successful first ascent.

In 1958, Lambert began pilot training and in 1964 acquired his professional pilot's license . He trained under Hermann Geiger and Fernand Martignoni (1929–1982) to become a glacier pilot and in 1971 received the qualification as an instructor for glacier pilots. In 1966 he founded the airline SATA (Société Anonyme de Transport Aérien Genève) with the pilot Charles Jacquat and the Aéro-Club . At the end of 1994 Lambert became an honorary member of the mountain aviation group of the Aéro-Club de Genève .

Lambert was married and had two children.

Alpinistic services (extract)

  • Mount Everest , 8848 m (Himalaya, Nepal / Tibet) 1952 two Swiss expeditions (spring and autumn) attempt a first ascent from the south side, Lambert sets a new altitude record with Tenzing Norgay in the pre-monsoon (approx. 8650 m).
  • Cho Oyu , 8188 m (Himalaya, Nepal / Tibet) 1954 Attempt of a second ascent together with Claude Kogan and others a few days after the first ascent through Tichy / Jöchler / Dawa
  • Yangra Kangri , 7422 m (Ganesh Himal, Nepal / Tibet) First ascent on October 24, 1955 together with Eric Guachet and Claude Kogan.
  • Distaghil Sar , 7885 m (Karakorum, Pakistan) First ascent attempt in 1959 over the southwest ridge by a Swiss expedition led by Raymond Lambert.

literature

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ^ [1] New York Times , March 3 1997: Raymond Lambert, 82, Dies; Paved the Way on Mt. Everest
  2. ↑ Pionnair GE: Raymond Lambert (1914-97) courageux émérite alpiniste, moniteur de vol en montagne, co-patron de SATA (2 vidéos)


personal data
SURNAME Lambert, Raymond
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH October 18, 1914
PLACE OF BIRTH Plainpalais (today municipality of Geneva )
DATE OF DEATH February 24, 1997
Place of death Geneva