André Roch
André Roch (born August 21, 1906 in Hermance near Geneva ; † November 19, 2002 ibid) was a Swiss alpinist , mountain guide , ski racer , avalanche protection expert and author .
Life
André Roch was introduced to the mountains by his father Maurice Roch, and he was a passionate skier and mountaineer from a young age. He studied engineering at the ETH Zurich and in the USA, joined the Academic Alpine Club Zurich and in 1928 the Swiss Alpine Club .
As a member of the student national ski team, he became world champion in downhill in 1926. In 1934 he reached an altitude of over 7000 meters above sea level on skis in the Karakoram . He managed difficult ascents in the Alps, including 25 first ascents, plus 27 first ascents or ascents on several expeditions in the Himalayas. In 1938 he took part in a Greenland expedition of the Academic Alpine Club Zurich, 16 peaks were climbed for the first time. In 1952 he reached the South Col with a Swiss expedition on Mount Everest . This paved the way for Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay to reach the summit the following year.
For 30 years Roch worked as an internationally recognized avalanche protection expert at the WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF in Davos . In 1936 Roch was called to Aspen (Colorado) to help build the ski resort. He co-founded the Aspen Ski Club, laying ski routes and giving ski lessons. In addition to a large number of honors, the Swiss Alpine Club and the Academic Alpine Club Zurich made him an honorary member.
Roch published several books, made films and was a talented painter. He was married twice, had a son and two daughters. A daughter died in a mountain accident in 1962, in which he himself was there.
First ascents
(Selection)
- 1926 First ascent of Dent du Requin in winter (Mont Blanc area)
- August 24, 1929 Wellenkuppe north face (with Jimmy Bélaieff)
- September 20, 1931 North face of the Aiguille de Triolet (with Robert Gréloz)
- 1934 Participation in the first ascent of Baltoro Kangri (7300 m) and Sia Kangri in the Karakoram
- August 1, 1938 Mont Forel (3383 m) (with Dr. Pidermann, Carl Baumann)
- August 6, 1945 Zinalrothorn east face (with Robert Gréloz, Ruedi Schmid)
- August 3, 1944 Dent Blanche . Grand Couloir West Flank (with Robert Gréloz, Jean Weigle)
- July 25, 1946 Aiguille du Plan West Face (with Robert Gréloz)
- July 5, 1939 First ascent of Dunagiri (7066 m) (with Fritz Steuri , David Zogg )
- August 1, 1947 first ascent of Satopanth (7075 m) (with René Ditterit, Alexander Graven, Alfred Sutter)
- 1947 first ascent of Nanda Ghunti (6310 m)
- 1950 Second ascent of Mount Logan (5959 m), Canada
Works (selection)
- Les conquêtes de ma jeunesse. Editions Victor Attinger, Neuchâtel 1942
- In rock and ice. Amstutz, Herdeg & Co., Zurich 1946
- Mon carnet des courses. F. Rouge, Lausanne 1948
- Karakoram / Himalaya: Conquering seven thousand meter peaks. Rascher Verlag, Zurich 1947
- The summit world of the Haute Route between Montblanc and Saas Fee. Rascher Verlag, Zurich 1954
- Everest, 1952. Jehaben, Genève 1952
- Mechanism of avalanche release. Wilmette, Illinois, 1956
Individual evidence
- ↑ On the death of an exceptional alpinist. The Alps 1/2003. Journal of the Swiss Alpine Club
- ^ Obituaries: Andre Roch, 96; Swiss Mountaineer, Avalanche Researcher In: Los Angeles Times of November 23, 2002 (English)
- ↑ Élodie Le Comte: Citadins au sommet. L'alpinisme genevois (1865-1970): un siècle d'histoire culturelle et sportive. Editions Slatkine, Genève 2008
- ^ Ruedi Kaiser: 100 years of the Academic Alpine Club Zurich
- ↑ André Roch. Swiss climber and expert on avalanches. The Independent. London, November 20, 2002
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Roch, André |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Swiss alpinist, mountain guide, ski racer, avalanche protection expert and author |
| DATE OF BIRTH | August 21, 1906 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Hermance near Geneva |
| DATE OF DEATH | November 19, 2002 |
| Place of death | Hermance near Geneva |