Mount Logan

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Mount Logan
Mount Logan from the southeast

Mount Logan from the southeast

height 5959  m
location Yukon Territory , Canada
Mountains Elias chain
Dominance 622 km →  Denali
Notch height 5250 m ↓  Mentasta Pass
Coordinates 60 ° 34 '4 "  N , 140 ° 24' 20"  W Coordinates: 60 ° 34 '4 "  N , 140 ° 24' 20"  W.
Mount Logan (Yukon)
Mount Logan
First ascent June 23, 1925 by Albert H. MacCarthy and WW Foster
Normal way Hochtour glaciated
The mountain from the northeast (seen from the Kluane Icefield)

The mountain from the northeast (seen from the Kluane Icefield )

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The Mount Logan - in the Saint Elias Mountains in the southwest of the Canadian territory Yukon valley - is with 5959  meters the highest mountain in Canada and after Denali (Mount McKinley) the second highest peak in North America ; as such, it is one of the Seven Second Summits . The mountain was discovered in 1890 and named in 1891 after the then very famous geologist Sir William Edmond Logan . There are now 13 different routes to the summit, and its ascent is considered one of the most difficult in North America. In addition to the main peak, there are three other peaks over 5890  m .

Main and sub peaks

For massif of Mount Logan all surrounding peaks are with a saddle height counted less than 500 meters:

summit height Notch height Coordinates
Main summit 5959 m 5250 m 60 ° 34 ′  N , 140 ° 24 ′  W.
Philippe Peak (West) 5925 m 0265 m 60 ° 35 ′  N , 140 ° 26 ′  W.
Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak) 5898 m 0198 m 60 ° 35 ′  N , 140 ° 22 ′  W.
Houston's Peak 5740 m 0100 m 60 ° 35 ′  N , 140 ° 27 ′  W.
Prospector Peak 5644 m 0344 m 60 ° 36 ′  N , 140 ° 31 ′  W.
AINA Peak 5630 m 0130 m 60 ° 37 ′  N , 140 ° 32 ′  W.
Russell Peak 5580 m 0080 m 60 ° 36 ′  N , 140 ° 29 ′  W.
Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak) 5559 m 0219 m 60 ° 37 ′  N , 140 ° 30 ′  W.
Saxon Peak (Northeast) 5500 m 0080 m 60 ° 37 ′  N , 140 ° 28 ′  W.
Queen Peak 5380 m 0160 m 60 ° 37 ′  N , 140 ° 35 ′  W.
Capet Peak (Northwest) 5250 m 0240 m 60 ° 38 ′  N , 140 ° 33 ′  W.
Catenary Peak 4097 m 0397 m 60 ° 37 ′  N , 140 ° 18 ′  W.
Teddy Peak 3956 m 0456 m 60 ° 33 ′  N , 140 ° 29 ′  W.

Ascents

Mount Logan was first climbed in 1925 by an expedition led by Albert MacCarthy . Other participants and first climbers were Fred Lambart , Andrew Taylor , Allen Carpé , William Wasbrough Foster and Norman Read . They reached the summit on June 23, 1925.

Because of the inaccessibility of the mountain (the first climbers had to cover 180 km to get to the mountain at all), many climbers have a flight service stationed in Haines Junction drop them off on a glacier.

As with almost all Seven Second Summits, Mount Logan is considered to be more difficult to climb than the highest mountain on its continent, Denali. In terms of climbing, it is only slightly more difficult : While Denali is rated II (Alaskan grading system) on the normal route , Mount Logan has a slightly higher degree of difficulty II +. However, the extraordinary climatic conditions on both mountains pose greater challenges. The weather is determined by storms and extreme cold. In addition, the troposphere is thinner near the poles, so that near peaks there are air conditions as in the Himalayas from 7000 m altitude. All of this has a greater impact on Mount Logan, as its high plateau shape requires a longer stay at high altitudes to climb.

See also

literature

  • Jack Bennett: Not Won in a Day: Climbing Canada's Highpoints . Rocky Mountain Books Ltd, 1999, ISBN 0-921102-70-4 , Mount Logan, pp. 99 ff . ( limited preview in Google Book Search [accessed August 5, 2018]).
  • Chic Scott: Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering . Rocky Mountain Books Ltd, 2000, ISBN 0-921102-59-3 , Mount Logan - Canada's Highest, pp. 96 ff . ( limited preview in Google Book Search [accessed August 5, 2018]).

Web links

Commons : Mount Logan  - Collection of Images

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Mount Logan. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  2. ↑ Philippe Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  3. ^ Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak). In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  4. ↑ Houston's Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  5. ^ Prospector Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  6. ↑ AINA Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  7. ^ Russell Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  8. ^ Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak). In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  9. ↑ Saxon Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  10. ^ Queen Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  11. ↑ Capet Peak (Northwest Peak). In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  12. ↑ Catenary Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  13. ↑ Teddy Peak. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  14. ↑ 1925 Climb. Retrieved August 19, 2015 (English / French).
  15. ^ Chic Scott: Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering . 2000, p. 96 ff .
  16. ↑ West Buttress. In: summitpost.org. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  17. ↑ Logan - King Trench. In: Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved May 3, 2011 .
  18. ^ Weather - Denali National Park. In: National Park Service website . Retrieved August 19, 2015 .
  19. ↑ Weather on Mount Logan. In: virtualmuseum.ca. Canadian Heritage Information Network, accessed August 19, 2015 .
  20. ↑ Mount Logan (5,959 m). Retrieved March 28, 2011 .
  21. ^ The Second Seven Summits. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved December 19, 2010 .