Aiguille de Triolet
| Aiguille de Triolet | ||
|---|---|---|
 The ridge from the Aiguille Verte via Droites and Courtes to the Aiguille de Triolet seen from the southwest. |
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| height | 3870 m | |
| location | Haute-Savoie ( France ) / Aosta ( Italy ) | |
| Mountains | Mont Blanc group | |
| Dominance | 2.9 km → Les Droites | |
| Notch height | 301 m ↓ Col des Courtes | |
| Coordinates | 45 ° 54 '59 " N , 7 ° 1' 28" E | |
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| First ascent | On August 26, 1874 by JAG Marshall, U. Almer and J. Fischer. | |
| Normal way | High tour over the Glacier de Talèfre and the Col de Triolet ( PD , III ) | |
The Aiguille de Triolet is a 3870 m high mountain in the Mont Blanc group . The border between France and Italy runs over its summit .
location
Three important mountain ridges meet at the Aiguille de Triolet. To the northwest, the chain pulls over Les Courtes and Les Droites the Aiguille Verte , to the southwest runs a comb, which the summit of Aiguille de Talefre , Aiguille de Leschaux and the Grandes Jorasses contributes to the east, they shall appoint a wildgezackten ridge to Mont Dolent to where the French-Italian border meets the Swiss border.
The Glacier d'Argentière has its origin to the north , onto which the Aiguille de Triolet drops with a steep, partly icy wall. The west flank carries the small Glacier des Courtes, which flows into the Glacier de Talèfre . To the southeast, the summit sends a long ridge. To the east of this ridge is the Glacier de Pré de Bar , to the west of the Glacier de Triolet.
Climbing opportunities
The normal route leads from the Refuge du Couvercle over the Glacier de Talèfre and Glacier des Courtes to the Col de Triolet. The rocky summit structure is reached through a chimney. The difficulties are PD , in rock III. Degree .
From the Rifugio Cesare Dalmazzi refuge on the Italian side, a combined ascent leads over the southeast ridge (AD, III).
The Aiguille de Triolet is mainly known among mountaineers for its north face. The classic north face route was first climbed on September 20, 1931 by R. Gréloz and A. Roch. It is reached from the Refuge d'Argentière and is an almost pure ice tour with an average incline of 54 °. The route has long been considered the most difficult ice tour in the Alpine region. A. Contamine and Louis Lachenal opened a variant up to 60 ° in the upper part in 1947. Routes through the rocky part of the north face are extremely prone to falling rocks and are very rarely used. Among them, the combined route by H. Bächli, H. Horisberger, C. Jäger and M. Marchal on August 7, 1967, which leads to the summit on the left of the classic route, stands out due to its lines.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Hartmut Eberlein: Area Leader Mont Blanc Group. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2000. p. 335.
- ↑ Institut géographique national scale 1: 25000 and Swisstopo LK25
- ↑ Stefano Ardito , Montblanc. Conquering a mountain range. , Karl Müller Verlag, Erlangen 2000 ( ISBN 3860702947 ), page 28.