Mont Dolent
| Mont Dolent | ||
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 Mont Dolent |
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| height | 3820 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Valle d'Aosta ( Italy ) / Canton Valais ( Switzerland ) | |
| Mountains | Mont Blanc group | |
| Dominance | 1.77 km → Aiguille de Triolet | |
| Notch height | 330 m ↓ Col du Dolent | |
| Coordinates , ( CH ) | 45 ° 55 '19 " N , 7 ° 2' 46" O ( 569 548 / 85673 ) | |
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| First ascent | July 9, 1864, A. Reilly, Edward Whymper with Michel Croz , H. Charlet and M. Payot | |
| Normal way | Southeast ridge | |
The Mont Dolent is located in the eastern part of the Mont Blanc group . Just to the west of the summit, which reaches a height of 3820 m, the borders of the three neighboring states of Switzerland , Italy and France have culminated since the Treaty of Turin in 1860 , the summit itself lies on the Italian-Swiss border .
This three-country summit represents a magnificent pyramid, which has always had a great attraction for all alpinists. Of the four main sides of the mountain, two are in Switzerland, one in Italy and one in France. The view of the mountain from the east from the A-Neuve basin is particularly impressive.
Surname
According to the French researcher Ernest Nègre, the name of the mountain comes from the French-Provencal patois word doulèn, an adjective that means "sad" in German. In the 19th century the mountain was sometimes called Mont Grapillon; this name applies today to a pre-summit on the south ridge of Mont Dolent.
geography
The mountain lies in the territory of the communes of Orsières in Switzerland, Courmayeur in Italy and Chamonix-Mont-Blanc in France.
On the four flanks of Mont Dolent, separated by mountain ridges, there are separate glaciers: in the north the Argentière glacier , in the east the A-Neuvegletscher , in the southeast the Dolent glacier and in the south the Pré-de-Bard glacier .
Alpinism
On July 9, 1864, the English mountaineers Anthony Adams Reilly , Edward Whymper with the mountain guides Michel Croz and Michel-Clément Payot and the porter Henri Charlet from Chamonix succeeded in the first ascent of the mountain. This marked the beginning of Whymper's successful series of pioneering alpine activities.
The four ridge routes on Mont Dolent were developed around 1900.
The normal route for the ascent of Mont Dolent starts at Rifugio Elena and leads from the Fiorio bivouac (20 places) over the Glacier de Pré de Bar to the snow saddle at approx. 3580 m and over a gully prone to falling rocks up to the summit ridge and to the highest point which on September 19, 1954 a statue of Our Lady was erected.
The Galletgrat from Dolent-La Maye Bivouac is interesting, wild and lonely . You can also combine both routes. Only these two bivouac boxes are suitable for overnight stays . The Mont Dolent is also popular as a ski tour on the Italian side.
Around 1990 the French extreme skier Pierre Tardivel made several descents over the glacier flanks of Mont Dolent.
On August 1, 1993, the mountain was the scene of a spectacular mountaineering action by Mountain Wilderness . 60 climbers simultaneously climbed all four walls and the ridges of Mont Dolent in between. The aim was to support the project of an international nature park on Mont Blanc and at the same time set an example for peace between nations.
literature
- Marcel Kurz : Le Mont Dolent. n: L'Écho des Alpes , 1910, pp. 180–220.
- Marcel Couturier : La face française du Mont Dolent. In: Alpinisme, 1935, pp. 9-20.
- F. Lavizzari: Il Mont Dolent cima italo-svizzera. In: Le Alpi, Rivista mensile del Centro Alpinistico Italiano , 58, 1938-1939, pp. 137-140.
location
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Location of Mont Dolent in the Mont-Blanc group, within the entire Alps, see right. |
