Les Courtes
| Les Courtes | ||
|---|---|---|
 The ridge from the Aiguille Verte via Droites and Courtes to the Aiguille de Triolet from the southwest |
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| height | 3856 m | |
| location | France | |
| Mountains | Mont Blanc massif | |
| Coordinates | 45 ° 55 '39 " N , 7 ° 0' 12" E | |
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| First ascent | First known ascent on August 4, 1876 by Henri Cordier , Thomas Middlemore, John Oakley Maund , Jakob Anderegg , Johann Jaun and Andreas Maurer; probably earlier radiator climbed. | |
| Normal way | High tour over the Glacier de Talèfre to the west northwest ridge ( PD , ice up to 45 °) | |
Les Courtes (French for the short ones ) form a 3856 m high mountain in the Mont Blanc group . They are located in the French department of Haute-Savoie .
location
Les Courtes are located in the Aiguille Verte - Les Droites - Les Courtes - Aiguille de Triolet ridge, which runs from west to south-east . Directly west is through the Col de la Tour des Courtes ( 3720 m ) separated the Tour de Courtes ( 3816 m ), a steep detached rock tower. Further west follows the 3733 m high Col des Droites , to which the Droites join. To the southeast the ridge leads over the 3601 m high Col de Cristaux to the steep rock needles of the Aiguille Ravanel ( 3696 m ) and the Aiguille Mummery ( 3700 m ), from which the ridge continues to the Aiguille de Triolet.
To the north, the Courtes drop almost 1000 meters with a steep ice wall interspersed with rocks onto the Glacier d'Argentière . In the south they carry a roughly 600 meter high rock face that merges into the Glacier de Talèfre .
Climbing opportunities
The courts are frequented and offer tours of different characters and levels of difficulty. The normal route leads from the foot of the Aiguille du Moine situated Refuge du Courvercle ( 2,687 m ) via the Glacier de Talefre and steep firn slopes in the Col de la Tour des Courtes from which the Westnordwestgrat leads to the summit. The route is an alpine tour with difficulty PD , ice up to 45 °. Another high-altitude tour with difficulty PD leads over the southeast ridge that leads from the Col de Cristaux to the summit. The Col de Cristaux can be reached from the Refuge du Courvercle and from the Refuge d'Argentière to the east . Several routes lead through the steep north walls and can be reached from the Refuge d'Argentière. The Swiss tour is a pure ice tour (TD-, in ice up to 70 °). A combined climbing tour leads over the northeast pillar (D, in the ice 50 °, rock IV ). A frequent pure ice rise with a steepness of up to 50 ° runs through the northeast face.
Development history
The first known ascent took place on August 4, 1876 by Henri Cordier , Thomas Middlemore, John Oakley Maund , Jakob Anderegg , Johann Jaun and Andreas Maurer via the Cordier route on the north side. The first ascent was probably made years earlier by spotlights on the south-west side. Today's normal route was first climbed by O. Schuster and A. Swaine on August 17, 1897. The first ascent of the northeast face took place on August 12, 1930 by P. Chavalier and G. Labor. At the end of the 1930s, the Schweizerführe (July 1938 by C. Cornaz and R. Mathey) and the northeast pillar (July 1939 by E. Frendo, A. Tournier, R. Jonquière, A. Mallol and M. Villarem) were first climbed.
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b c Hartmut Eberlein: Area Leader Mont Blanc Group. Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2000. P. 338 ff.
- ^ First names from Yves Ballu: Les alpinistes . Glénat, 1997.
- ↑ according to Institut géographique national scale 1: 25000. Swisstopo LK25 gives a height of 3711 m above sea level. M. at.
- ↑ according to Institut géographique national scale 1: 25000. Swisstopo LK25 gives an altitude of 3720 m above sea level. M. at.