Piz Bernina

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Piz Bernina
Piz Bernina from the Diavolezza, on the far right the Biancograt

Piz Bernina from the Diavolezza , on the far right the Biancograt

height 4048.6  m above sea level M.
location Graubünden , Switzerland
Mountains Bernina group
Dominance 138 km →  Finsteraarhorn
Notch height 2234 m ↓  Malojapass
Coordinates 789 947  /  139751 coordinates: 46 ° 22 '56 "  N , 9 ° 54' 29"  O ; CH1903:  seven hundred and eighty-nine thousand nine hundred forty-seven  /  139751
Piz Bernina (Bernina Alps)
Piz Bernina
First ascent September 13, 1850 by Johann Wilhelm Coaz , Jon and Lorenz Ragut Tscharner
Normal way Spallagrat from Rif. Marco e Rosa (II)

The Piz Bernina is the only four-thousand-meter peak in the Eastern Alps and the highest mountain in the canton of Graubünden in Switzerland . The national map of Switzerland gives its height at 4049  m above sea level. M. at. Like its neighbors Piz Palü , Piz Roseg and Bellavista, Piz Bernina belongs to the Bernina group or simply the Bernina. The border between Italy and Switzerland runs almost 200 meters south of the summit . Due to its dominance, the Piz Bernina offers an exceptional view in all directions and is even visible from countless peaks. Because of the conspicuous Bianco ridge, it is also easy to identify. The farthest visible point ( 43 ° 45 ′ 49.8 ″  N , 12 ° 16 ′ 30.8 ″  E ) from Piz Bernina is on a ridge between the Italian regions of Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany , 41 km southwest of Rimini and is 349 km away.


Spherical panorama from Piz Bernina Show
as spherical panorama

The mountain consists of three peaks , the middle of which is the highest. The southern summit Spalla (La Spedla, 4020  m ) is slightly lower and hardly separated from the main summit . The state border runs over its southwest and southeast ridge. The main summit is - even if this is often presented differently by the Italian side - entirely on Swiss territory. To the north of the main summit, beyond the striking Bernina Pass, is the northern summit ( Piz Bianco or Rhaeto-Romanic Piz Alv ? / I ). The north summit is the end point of the firnigen part of the north ridge (Biancograt, Romanesque: Crast 'Alva ). The latter is often considered to be the most beautiful ice ridge in the Alps. Audio file / audio sample

The Piz Bernina is connected in the southwest via the Scerscen-Scharte with the 3971  m high Piz Scerscen . In the southeast it is separated from the Crast 'Agüzza ( 3854  m ) by the glaciated Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza ( 3591  m ) . In the north, the Biancograt ends in Fuorcla Prievlusa ( 3430  m ), behind which the ridge rises again to Piz Morteratsch ( 3751  m ).

On the north side of the mountain are the Morteratsch and Tschierva glaciers, two large glaciers, both of which drain to the Danube via Flaz and Inn . The Piz Bernina is the highest point in the catchment area of ​​the Danube. On the south side is the Vedretta di Scerscen Superiore , another larger glacier. This drains through the Val Scerscen via Lanterna and Mallero to the Adda .


Alpine bases


Spherical panorama from the Bianco ridge Show
as spherical panorama

Accommodation on the Swiss side are the two Alpine Club huts of the SAC Chamanna da Tschierva ( 2583  m ) in the Roseg Valley and Chamanna da Boval ( 2495  m ) in the Morteratschtal . The Chamanna da Tschierva is the starting point for the ascent of the Bernina over the Biancograt .


On the Italian side, the usual ascent is via the Rifugio Carate Brianza ( 2662  m slm ) and the Rifugio Marinelli ( 2813  m slm ). Furthermore, the Spallagrats is there above the upper Scerscen glacier at the foot of a outworked, accessible only with glacier equipment base on 3609  m slm , the Rifugio Marco e Rosa De Marchi of CAI .

Valley locations

Valley locations are Pontresina - on the north side - and Chiesa in Valmalenco and Lanzada - on the south side.

Origin of the name

The name originally only suited the area near the pass hostel ; It was transferred to the highest peak in the area by the first climber Johann Wilhelm Coaz . It is assumed that the owner of the hostel, or the older alp, is called Bernin, corresponding to the Italian personal name Bernini .

First ascent

First to climb Johann Wilhelm Coaz

In 1850, the surveyor Johann Wilhelm Coaz (1822–1918) from S-chanf , a surveyor in Dufour's service from the Swiss Office for Topography , was commissioned to measure the then nameless summit. On September 13, 1850, Coaz began the ascent from the «Bernina Häuser» inn, together with the two measurement assistants and guides Jon and Lorenz Ragut Tscharner from Domleschg . They were equipped with nailed shoes, a hemp rope, headscarves to protect them from the sun and long sticks to probe cracks. Over the Morteratsch glacier they reached its labyrinth , known as the crevice -rich part, which they crossed with great difficulty. Via the south side they reached the east ridge, probably above the Sass dal Pos (3256 m). At 6 p.m. all three reached the summit, planted the Swiss flag and placed a bottle with a few Graubünden coins and a slip of paper with their names in a recess.

The descent was made with great effort on the same route. According to Coaz's route description, the benevolent moon took pity on her , so that at 2 a.m., 20 hours after setting off, she arrived safely back at the Bernina Inn.


The easiest route leads from the Rifugio Marco e Rosa over the Spallagrat to the Bernina summit (firn and rock ridge, difficulties in the rock up to UIAA II). Another possibility is the much-traveled Bianco ridge, a combined climbing route over the striking snow edge of the north ridge (ice up to 50 °, at the transition to the UIAA III summit). Much more demanding routes lead through the rocky west flank. The best known is probably the one that was committed by Patrick Gabarrou and Tobias Heymann on August 17, 1993 for the first time. This route is rated SS +. In addition, an extraordinarily long ridge route with a level of difficulty ZS + leads from the Porta da Roseg to the Spalla. This celebrated Paul Güssfeldt , Emile Rey and JB Aymonod on 22 September 1887 as the first.


Labeled 360 ° panorama of Piz Bernina



Web links

Commons : Piz Bernina  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. Piz Bernina on Peakbagger.com (English)
  2. Calculated 360 ° panorama ( U. Deuschle ; information ) from Piz Bernina
  3. Andrea Schorta: How the mountain got its name . Small Rhaetian name book with two and a half thousand geographical names of Graubünden. Terra Grischuna Verlag, Chur and Bottmingen / Basel 1988, ISBN 3-7298-1047-2 , p. 67 .
  4. Pioneers of alpinism in Switzerland ( Memento of October 30, 2008 in the Internet Archive )
  5. Terra Grischuna , edition 2/2010, p. 32.