Piz Scerscen
| Piz Scerscen | ||
|---|---|---|
 In the middle of the picture the Piz Scerscen, on the right the Piz Roseg , just to the left of the picture center the Piz Bernina with the Bianco ridge |
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| height | 3971 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Graubünden , Switzerland ; Sondrio Province , Lombardy , Italy | |
| Mountains | Bernina group | |
| Dominance | 0.56 km → La Spedla | |
| Notch height | 89 m ↓ Fuorcla Scerscen-Bernina | |
| Coordinates , ( CH ) | 46 ° 22 '40 " N , 9 ° 54' 1" O ( 789 354 / 139.25 thousand ) | |
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| First ascent | September 13, 1877 by Paul Güßfeldt with Hans Grass and Kaspar Kapat over the ice nose | |
| Normal way | From the Tschiervahütte via the Eisnase or from the Rifugio Marinelli-Bombardieri via the southwest couloir. | |
The Piz Scerscen is 3971 m above sea level. M. high mountain in the Bernina group . The border between the Swiss canton of Graubünden and the Italian province of Sondrio ( Lombardy ) runs over its summit . It is the direct southwestern neighbor of Piz Berninas , the only four-thousand-meter peak in the Eastern Alps.
location
The Piz Scerscen stretches as a mighty, almost one and a half kilometer long wall from Piz Bernina in the northeast to the southwest Porta da Roseg ( 3522 m above sea level ), which leads over to Piz Roseg . The border between Italy and Switzerland runs over this ridge. It has five listed points on the Swiss national map , the highest of which is 3971 m above sea level. M. is about in the middle of the ridge. To the south, the entire chain drops into steep cliffs on the Italian Vedretta di Scerscen Superiore. The north flank is mostly icy and carries a mighty hanging glacier that leads over the ice nose into a rock ridge. In this rock ridge rises at 3252 m above sea level. M. the Piz Umur.
Climbing opportunities
The normal route leads over the Eisnase and is considered a difficult alpine tour . The starting point is the north at 2573 m above sea level. M. lying Tschierva Hut ( SAC ). Vadret da Tschierva is reached from the hut on a moraine path. Going around the Piz Umur rock ridge to the west, you come to a ridge that leads over the ice nose - a steep ice step - to a hanging glacier. The route leads over this to a short, steep ice wall, over which the summit is reached.
From the Italian side the normal route leads through the south-west couloir ( quite difficult ), which is 2813 m above sea level. M. high Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri ( CAI ) is reached. The route is at risk of falling rocks in the couloir.
The crossing is also done from the Porta da Roseg over the southwest ridge to the summit and from there on over the northeast ridge to Piz Bernina. An alpine climbing tour (up to V + ) leads through the south face .
history
Origin of name
For a long time the Piz Scerscen was only considered the shoulder of the Piz Bernina and therefore remained nameless. The name Scerscen probably comes from the Latin circino (= boiler , valley head ). In Italy the summit is called Monte Rosso di Scerscen or Monte Scerscen for short .
Ascent history
The first ascent took place on September 13, 1877 by the German geologist Paul Güßfeldt together with Hans Grass and Kaspar Kapat. They used today's normal route from the Tschiervahütte over the Eisnase. Paul Güßfeldt also managed other first ascents: Two years later, on September 15, 1879, together with Hans Grass, the first ascent of the Southwest Couloir, today's normal route from the Italian side. Likewise, the longitudinal crossing from the southwestern Porta Roseg to the northeastern Piz Bernina took place on September 22, 1887 by Güßfeldt together with Emile Rey and JB Aymonod.
Walter Risch made his first winter ascent on March 29, 1938 through the southwest couloir.
Ludwig Norman-Neruda and Christian Klucker climbed the west face for the first time on July 9, 1890. This tour is rarely used today due to the risk of ice fall.
literature
- Pierino Giuliani: Alpine guide Bündner Alpen 5 - Bernina massif and Valposchiavo . SAC-Verlag 2007, 6th edition.
- National map of Switzerland: Piz Bernina . No. 1277
Web links
- Piz Scerscen on the ETHorama platform