Cima Brenta

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Cima Brenta
Cima Brenta from Val Rendena

Cima Brenta from Val Rendena

height 3151.7  m slm
location Trentino , Italy
Mountains Brenta Group
Dominance 17.48 km →  Cima Presanella
Notch height 1497 m ↓  Passo Campo Carlo Magno
Coordinates 46 ° 10 '48 "  N , 10 ° 53' 57"  E Coordinates: 46 ° 10 '48 "  N , 10 ° 53' 57"  E
Cima Brenta (Brenta)
Cima Brenta
Type Felsberg, partly covered with firn
rock Main dolomite
First ascent August 1871 by Douglas William Freshfield and Francis Fox Tuckett, led by Henri Dévouassoud
Normal way from the west over the Bocca del Tuckett and the Sentiero delle Bocchette Alte
particularities highest peak in the Brenta group
pd5

The Cima Brenta (also known as Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Spitze until 1918 ) is the highest peak in the Brenta Group , a mountain range in the southern Limestone Alps in the Italian province of Trentino, at 3,151.7 meters . The mountain is a popular destination for mountaineers and climbers due to its easy accessibility from the surrounding mountain huts , its not excessively difficult climbs and the attractive panoramic view . Due to its height and massive appearance, it dominates the Val Brenta ( Brenta Valley ) to the west . The Cima Brenta was first climbed in August 1871 by the English mountaineers Douglas William Freshfield and Francis Fox Tuckett , led by Henri Dévouassoud from Chamonix from Campiglio .

Surroundings

The Cima Brenta lies in the middle of the Brenta Group and is partially surrounded by glaciers . In the north, the Vedretta di Brenta inferiore extends to just below the summit , in the west is the Vedretta di Brenta superiore and in the south the Vedretta dei Brentei . Numerous peaks, jagged rocks, but also larger mountains form the rugged area around the Cima Brenta. The most important elevations are in the north, separated by the Bocca del Tuckett crossing at 2849 meters above sea level, the Cima Sella (2919 m), the Campanile di Vallesinella (2940 m) and the 2988 meter high Cima Falkner . In the south, separated by the Bocca dei Massodi at 2790 meters, are the Cima Molveno (2915 m), the Torre di Brenta (3014 m), and the Cima Brenta Alta with a height of 2960 meters. The 3133 meter high Cima Tosa is about 3½ kilometers southwest. Until the ice cap melted, it was the highest mountain in the Brenta at 3,173 meters. In the west, finally, the 3033 meter high Cima Mandron rises along the ridge . To the east, the Cima Brenta drops almost vertically into Val delle Seghe with a 600-meter-high east wall , the west ridge runs down into Val Brenta. Nearest towns are in the northwest, the well 7.5 km in a straight line away Madonna di Campiglio in Campigliotal , in the southeast, the about 6.5 km away is Molveno on Lake Molveno and about 12 km to the south, San Lorenzo in Banale .

geology

Bases and routes

The path of the first climbers in 1871 led from the Campigliotal to the west over the Vedretta di Brenta inferiore first to the smaller secondary peaks in the west, then the actual, fairly flat summit plateau was reached. It took the group five hours to climb and three hours to descend.

Today's normal route (slightest ascent) to the Cima Brenta is similar and leads from the Rifugio Tuckett - Quintino Sella ( Tucketthütte ), at 2272 meters above sea level in the upper Brenta Valley, over the Bocca del Tuckett to the Sentiero delle Bocchette Alte via ferrata , which over the so-called Garbariband leads through the east wall. From there, a steep gully and a short ridge can be used to ascend to the summit cross , leaving the via ferrata and climbing in places of difficulty UIAA II to be overcome. The Garbariband can also be reached from the south via the Sentiero delle Bocchette Alte . The starting point for this is the Rifugio Alimonta at 2591 meters above sea level, or the Rifugio Tosa (2442 m). All of these climbs are in sections via ferratas of varying difficulty with iron ladders, step stirrups and rope insurance, which should only be climbed with appropriate equipment.

It is also possible to approach from the west from the Tucketthütte via the Vedretta di Brenta Superiore glacier and the uppermost west ridge to the summit. In terms of climbing, this route is no more difficult than the normal route, but the glacier must be crossed with appropriate equipment and experience, on which objective dangers, in particular falling rocks , must be expected. The easiest route through the south face also has the difficulty level UIAA II. The starting point for this would be the Rifugio Brentei (2182 m) or the Rifugio Alimonta. Numerous other climbing routes on the Cima Brenta have been opened since the 1930s, some of which have difficulties up to UIAA grade VI.

Web links

Commons : Cima Brenta  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Meyers Großes Konversations-Lexikon, keyword Brenta Alps
  2. ↑ portals Geocartografico Trentino , Provincia Autonoma di Trento
  3. ^ Douglas William Freshfield: Italian Alps - Sketches in the Mountains of Ticino, Lombardy, the Trentino, and Venetia , London 1875, p. 264
  4. ^ Douglas William Freshfield in: The Alpine Journal , Volume V, London 1872, p. 252
  5. ^ Karl Schulz: The Brenta Group , in Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894
  6. ↑ Description of the normal route on alpintouren.com
  7. ↑ Description of the ascent over the west ridge on hikr.org
  8. ↑ Description of the ascent through the south face on vienormali.it (Italian)

Literature and map