Cima falconer
| Cima falconer | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Cima Falkner in the center of the picture, on the left the Cima del Grostè |
||
| height | 2988 m slm | |
| location | Trentino , Italy | |
| Mountains | Brenta Group | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 11 '36 " N , 10 ° 54' 17" E | |
|
||
| Type | Felsberg | |
| rock | Main dolomite | |
| First ascent | 1882 by Alberto de Falkner and the mountain guide Antonio Dallagiacoma from the south through a rubble channel | |
The Cima Falkner (sometimes also called Cima del Falkner ) is a, according to the map, 2988 meter high mountain in the Brenta Group , a mountain range of the southern Limestone Alps in the Italian province of Trento . It has been named after the Italian alpinist Alberto de Falkner since 1881 . It belongs to the massif of the 2898 meter high Cima del Grostè in the northern part of the Brenta. The Felsberg is easily accessible thanks to the Sentiero delle Bocchette path, which is partially developed as a via ferrata , in the Via Benini section and is therefore easy to climb. Climbing routes lead through its southwest and west walls . The mountain, then known as Rocca di Vallesinella , was first climbed in 1882 by Alberto de Falkner and the mountain guide Antonio Dallagiacoma. However, it can be assumed that local hunters were on the summit long before that.
Surroundings
The Cima Falkner is located in the northern part of the Brenta group, the Grostè massif . The small Vedretta di Vallesinella inferiore glacier stretches below its 300 meter high west face . Adjacent mountains along the short south ridge are the 2940 meter high Campanile di Vallesinella , immediately to the north is the Campanile dei Camosci with a height of 2914 meters and, separated by the Bocca dei Camosci gorge , the Cima del Grostè , the highest with 2898 meters Mountain of the massif. To the northwest the area runs out into the Vallesinella ( Sinella valley ), to the southeast the Val delle Seghe runs . Nearest towns are in the northwest, the well 7.5 km in a straight line away Madonna di Campiglio in Campigliotal , in the southeast, the about 6.5 km away is Molveno on Lake Molveno and about 12 km to the south, San Lorenzo in Banale .
Bases and routes
Today's normal route (easiest ascent) on the Cima Falkner is also the route of the first climber. It leads from Rifugio Tuckett - Quintino Sella ( Tucket hut at 2268 meters above sea level), located in the upper Brenta Valley, or from Rifugio Giorgio Graffer al Grostè (2261 m), at the mountain station of the Grostè cable car, via Via Benini to the south-southeastern side of the Cima Falconer. Through a gully that is at risk of falling rocks , it goes up to a notch that is often filled with snow and heads west without difficulty to the summit. The walking time from the huts is around 3 hours.
A serious climbing route, on the other hand, has been leading through the southwest face as the Detassis route since 1947 . Here key points in UIAA grade V have to be overcome, with a wall height of 350 meters. Another well-known tour, opened in 1975 by M. Andreolli, J. Casiraghi, U. Lorenzini and G. Villa, leads through the west face in difficulty level V +.
Literature and map
- Karl Schulz in The Development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894
- Heinz Steinkötter, Alpine Club Leader Brenta Group , Munich 1988, ISBN 3-7633-1311-7
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 51, Brenta group
Individual evidence
- ↑ Annuari della Società degli Alpini Tridentini , Volume V, Trento 1881/82