Bruno Detassis

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Bruno Detassis (* June 1910 in Trento ; † May 8, 2008 in Madonna di Campiglio ), called King of the Brenta , was an Italian mountaineer and mountain guide and long-time host of the Brentei hut in the Brenta .

Bruno Detassis comes from a working-class family in Trento. His father was a senior local union official. Detassis started climbing at an early age, at the age of 15 he stood on the Campanile Basso for the first time , which he was to climb 180 times in his life. He became known as a climber in 1932 with the direct route through the southeast face of the Paganella .

Further first ascents:

  • North-east face of the Brenta Alta (VI), Via Trento , 1934 with Enrico Giordani and Ulisse Battistata.
  • North-east face of the Crozzon di Brenta (VI-), Via delle Guide , 1935 with Giordani
  • Southwest face of the northwest tip of the Croz dell'Altissimo (V +, some places VI), 1936 with Giordani
  • Right east pillar of the Cima Tosa (V, some points VI), 1937, with Giorgio Graffer
  • Via Canna d'Organo on the Piccolo Dain in the Valle Sarca, 1938, with Rizieri Costazza

Detassis opened over 200 routes in the Brenta , Pala , the Sella and other Dolomite groups, often together with Ettore Castiglioni , with whom he had a deep friendship. Detassis was one of the formative mountaineers of the 1930s in the Dolomites. During the Second World War, Detassis trained mountain guides at the Alpini military school in the Aosta Valley before he was deported to Germany as a prisoner of war in 1943.

After the war, in 1949 he became the hut manager of the Maria e Alberto ai Brentei refuge in the Brenta and remained so for decades. He played a leading role in the construction of the Sentiero delle Bocchette . In 1957/58 he led the first Trentino expedition to Patagonia , which failed due to the ascent of Cerro Torre from the east side.

Bruno Detassis was an honorary member of the Trento Film Festival .

Web links

  • Bruno Detassis . (Italian, Bruno Detassis [accessed March 1, 2010] Biographical obituary at www.paretiverticali.it). (Italian)
  • Spigolo della Madonnina on the Brenta Alta, Bruno Detassis at the age of 82 . (Italian, YouTube video [accessed March 1, 2010]). (Italian)
  • Bruno Detassis - Grande alpinista e uomo delle Dolomiti del Brenta . (Italian, trentofestival.com [accessed March 1, 2010]). (Italian)
  • Personal folder on Bruno Detassis (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)

Individual evidence

  1. Bruno Detassis (1910 - 2008), honorary member of the Trento Film Festival ( Memento of December 29, 2011 in the Internet Archive ), accessed on June 7, 2017