Piz Ciavazes
| Piz Ciavazes | ||
|---|---|---|
 The south face of Piz Ciavazes with the Sella towers |
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| height | 2828 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol , Italy | |
| Mountains | Sella , Dolomites | |
| Dominance | 0.5 km → Piz Sëlva | |
| Notch height | 100 m | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 30 '44 " N , 11 ° 47' 7" E | |
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| First ascent | August 18, 1892 by H. Bertram, H. Binn, H. Lorenz, O. Nafe, Th. And M. Smoluchowski | |
| Normal way | North-east ridge from the saddle to Piz Sëlva | |
 Summit construction from the east, on the right the notch to Piz Sëlva, in the background on the left the Langkofel and on the right the Raschötzer Alm . |
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The Piz Ciavazes (also Piz de Ciavazes ) is a mountain in the Sella group in the Dolomites. With its height of 2828 m slm it forms the mighty southwest corner pillar of the group. To the west, the Ciavazes runs out in the Sella Towers to the Sella Pass. From the north, the mountain is not particularly noticeable as a single elevation, while its south face rises imposingly directly above the Great Dolomite Road between the Sella Pass or Canazei and the Pordoi Pass. In the northeast, the high plateau Piz Lastiës and Piz Sëlva ( 2941 m slm ) connect . The actual summit is a small rock structure that is surrounded by rubble and is rarely visited.
history
The Piz Ciavazes appeared in a document as "mons Cauaz" as early as the late 11th century , when a certain Grimold compared himself with ambassadors from the Hochstift Freising about ownership and usage rights to Val Gardena alpine pastures .
The mountain was first climbed on August 18, 1892 by H. Bertram, H. Binn, H. Lorenz, O. Nafe, Th. And M. Smoluchowski from the north-eastern saddle ( 2730 m slm ) between the summit and Piz Sëlva . Today's normal route leads difficulty I from Sella pass over the Pößnecker fixed rope to a large debris field on the north side of Ciavazes and traversing from there, below the summit to the east, to nämlichem saddle and continue on the Piz Sëlva. The summit of the Ciavazes is usually not climbed, but an ascent is easily possible from the saddle to Piz Sëlva via the northeast ridge.
The showpiece of Piz Ciavazes is its south wall, which is divided in the middle by the distinctive chamois ribbon . Thanks to the short approaches and the solid rock in the lower part, this wall is a popular climbing destination which, due to its south-facing exposure , is dry and climbable again early in the year and shortly after bad weather. Several first-class routes lead through the wall, the most famous of which is the Great Micheluzzi ( Luigi Micheluzzi and Ettore Castiglioni on September 26, 1935, VI- or V / A0). The Gamsband, on the other hand, allows the entire south face to be traversed on paths with individual climbing points of difficulty I.
literature
- Egon Pracht: Alpine Club Guide Dolomites Sella Group . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother , Munich 1980, ISBN 3-7633-1303-6 .
- Gunther Langes : Dolomites climbing guide 1b, Sella, Marmolata and Pala groups . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1974, ISBN 3-7633-2303-1 .
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Martin Bitschnau , Hannes Obermair : Tiroler Urkundenbuch, II. Department: The documents on the history of the Inn, Eisack and Pustertal valleys. Volume 1: By the year 1140 . Universitätsverlag Wagner, Innsbruck 2009, ISBN 978-3-7030-0469-8 , p. 222, no. 250 .