Heinz Mariacher

Heinz Mariacher (born October 4, 1955 in Wörgl ) is an Austrian climber .

Heinz Mariacher started climbing at an early age; at the age of twelve, for example, he climbed the east face of the Rofanspitze alone . He later learned the profession of surveyor and trained as a mountain guide .

In the 1970s, Mariacher attracted attention through difficult solo alpine ascents. So he climbed the on the north wall of the western pinnacle in 1974 Cassin (VI / A0) and at the Grand Peak the nordwandige Comici (VI +) (both Three Peaks ) or the Route Vinatzer ( VI + ) on the Marmolada - south wall alone and mostly free . In 1977 he was able to open the Charlie Chaplin (VI +) route on the north face of the Lalidererspitze . Especially in the Marmolada he opened up several new tours, including 1979 Vogelwild (VII-), 1980 Abracadabra (VII) and 1982 Modern Times (VII / VII +).

In the 1980s he dealt with modern sport climbing and made significant contributions to the development of the climbing gardens around Arco , today one of the most popular climbing areas in Europe. In 1986 he opened up Kendo (8a +) in Val San Nicolò, probably the first climbing route in Italy with difficulty level X. The most difficult routes he first climbed reach difficulty level 8b +. In the Alpine area he scored the first ascent of 1,986 tempos Modernissimi (IX / IX) and in 1987 the first red point ascent of the way through the fish (VIII + / IX), turn on the Marmolada south face. This tour in particular cemented his reputation as a pioneer of modern alpine sport climbing, as he completely dispensed with bolts to secure this long, difficult and dangerous route .

Heinz Mariacher now lives with his partner, Luisa Iovane , who is also a successful climber , on the Karer Pass in South Tyrol and works as a product manager for a large sporting goods company (Scarpa). He also wrote several Alpine Club guides .

Publications

• Alpine Club Guide Dolomites Rosengarten Group. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother , Munich 1988, ISBN 3-7633-1250-1 .
• Alpine Club Guide Dolomites Marmolada main ridge. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1983, ISBN 3-7633-1305-2 .

literature

• Malte Roeper: In free spaces. Portrait of Heinz Mariacher. In: Panorama 5/2015, pp. 98-101.

Web links

• Interview in the Süddeutsche Zeitung
• personal homepage

Individual evidence

1. ↑ ^{a b} Michael Meisl, Martin Lochner: Arco - climbing from Lake Garda to the Brenta . Ed .: Martin Lochner. 2005, ISBN 3-928026-25-9 ( guidebook-arco.com [PDF; accessed September 23, 2009]). Arco - climbing from Lake Garda to the Brenta ( Memento of the original from June 17, 2009 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
2. ↑ ^{a b} Uli Auffermann: Heinz Mariacher and the way through the fish . In: Mountaineers . No. 8 , August 2008, p. 102 .
3. ↑ ^{a b} Uli Auffermann: Decision in the wall . Schall Verlag, Alland 2010, ISBN 978-3-900533-62-5 .