Luisa Iovane

The Italian Luisa Iovane (born June 27, 1960 in Mestre , Venice ) was one of the best climbers in the world in the 1970s and 1980s . Together with her partner Heinz Mariacher , she managed numerous first ascents and repetitions of important alpine routes . She later switched to sport climbing , where, among other things, she was the first woman to succeed in a first ascent in the French level of difficulty 8a. Luisa Iovane finished second in the overall World Cup in 1989 and was Italian champion eight times in the course of her career.

Career

Luisa Iovane started climbing at the age of 14 with her father in San Felicita. Two years later she began climbing in the Dolomites , often solo in the absence of a climbing partner . In 1977 she met her partner Heinz Mariacher on a joint climbing tour at Torre Trieste, with whom she was able to climb or repeat some of the most important alpine routes of the time, for example the second ascent of the Weg durch den Fisch route ( VII- / A3 ) in 1984.

Inspired by a trip to Yosemite Valley in 1979, she increasingly turned to sport climbing. She played a key role in the development of new climbing areas, for example around Arco (Italy). In the Nikolaustal (Val San Nicolo), with Come Back, she was the first woman to succeed in the first ascent of a route with the French difficulty level 8a (UIAA IX + / X-). When the first climbing competitions took place in Western Europe in 1985 , Iovane took part and quickly became the most successful Italian woman. In 1985 she finished second at Sport Roccia , the forerunner of the Rockmaster , two years later she achieved this placement again at the Rockmaster herself. She achieved her greatest competitive success in 1989 with a World Cup victory in Russia and a second place in the overall standings.

Luisa Iovane has successfully studied geology and lives with her partner Heinz Mariacher on the Karer Pass .

Most significant successes

rock

Alpine

First ascents

All together with Heinz Mariacher

• Niagra ( VI ), Pordois peak , 1978
• Abracadabra (VII-), Marmolada , 1980
• Modern times (VII +), Marmolada, 1982
• Tempi Modernissimi (IX- / IX), Marmolada, 1986

Repetitions

• Bellenzier alla Torre d'Alleghe (VII +; third ascent), Civetta , 1977
• Via die Fachiri (VI +; fourth ascent), Cima Scotoni , 1977
• Central pillar he (VII +; first repetition), Heiligkreuzkofel , 1978
• Weg durch den Fisch (VII / A1; first repetition), Marmolada, 1984

Sport climbing

First ascents

• Come Back (8a), Val San Nicolo (I), 1986

Repetitions

• Nisida (7c), Arco (I), 1984 (?)
• Tom e Jerry (7c), Arco (I), 1985
• Polka des Ringards (7c), Buoux (F), 1985
• El Somaro (8a), Lumignano (I), 1990
• Cesar's Line (8a), Val San Nicolo (I), 1994
• Vision Thin , (8a and 5.13a / b), Rifle (USA), 1994
• Vitamin H (7c or 5.12c; onsight ), Rifle (USA), 1994

Competitions

• 2nd place Sport Roccia, 1985
• 2nd place Rockmaster , 1987
• 2nd place UIAA Masters in Serre Chevalier 1990 & 1994
• Eight times Italian champion

World Cups :

• Victory at the World Cup in Russia, 1989
• 2nd place overall ranking 1989
• 2nd place in Lyon, 1989
• 2nd place in Madonna di Campiglio, 1990
• 5th place overall ranking 1990 & 1991

Web links

• Competition results from Luisa Iovane on digitalrock.de

literature

• Heinz Zak : Rock Stars - The world's best free climbers . Bergverlag Rother , Munich 1995, ISBN 3-7633-7040-4 ; P. 152 ff.