Way through the fish

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Marmolada south face. In the center of the picture is the fish niche

The way through the fish is an alpine climbing route on the Marmolada -Südwand in the Dolomites . It is 1220 meters long (wall height 920 meters), has 37 pitches and the difficulty is freely climbed UIAA IX- . The name comes from a rock niche in the middle of the wall that is shaped like a fish.

First ascent

The route was opened in August 1981 by the two Czechs Igor Koller and Indřich Šustr (then only 17 years old) using technical climbing without the use of bolts (VII, A1 ). Due to the extraordinary length, the poor protection and the brittle rock in the lower and upper parts, it is one of the most demanding climbing routes in the Alps.

The first ascent is considered a milestone in climbing history, as it was the first time that an extreme lead was climbed without bolts.

Further inspections

Luisa Iovane and her partner Heinz Mariacher succeeded in repeating the route for the first time in 1984 . In 1987 he succeeded in doing the first red point ascent together with Bruno Pederiva . Maurizio Giordani was able to conquer the Solo route in 1990 , whereby he required a self-belay in a total of 9 pitches. The South Tyrolean Roland Mittersteiner and Hanspeter Eisendle were able to book the first onsight ascent in 1992. Christoph Hainz also climbed the tour onsight in 1992.

On April 29, 2007, the then 23-year-old Hansjörg Auer managed a free solo ascent of the route. He only needed two hours and 55 minutes for this (a normal two-person rope team usually needs two days for the ascent). The preparation for his attempt consisted of abseiling down the route the day before, during which he memorized the key points.

Web links

literature

  • Heinz Mariacher: Alpine Club Guide Dolomites Marmolada-Hauptkamm , Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1983, p. 156 ff., ISBN 3-7633-1305-2 .
  • Mountaineer , May 1982

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Milestones in modern climbing
  2. ↑ Incredibly ALONE . In: Alpin , edition 08/2007. P. 82.