Hansjörg Auer

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Hansjörg Auer (2012)

Hansjörg Auer (born February 18, 1984 in Zams ; † April 16, 2019 in Banff National Park , Canada ) was an Austrian climber and mountaineer. He made particular by the free solo -Begehung the route " way through the fish " (Difficulty IX) on the Marmolada south face in the Dolomites stir.

Career

Hansjörg Auer started climbing in 1996. From 2004 onwards he achieved first ascents and repetitions etc. on several expeditions. a. in Patagonia , Pakistan and in the Yosemite Valley , e.g. B. the compressor route at Cerro Torre or Eternal Flame at the Trango towers .

In sport climbing , he achieved first ascents of difficulty level 8b / 8b + ( Roxette near Längenfeld ) as well as repetitions up to level 8c + ( Darkside on the Chinamauer in Leutasch Valley , 2009).

For the first ascent of the east summit of Kunyang Chhish over the southwest face in 2013 , his three-man team was nominated for the Piolet d'Or 2014. However, no prize was awarded to them at the on-site award ceremony in Chamonix . Subsequently, according to Auer, the rope team received a call that they should be awarded the Piolet d'Or on a smaller scale, which they immediately refused, as did the offer to be part of the jury for the 2016 award. Auer justified the rejection with the arbitrariness of the award ceremony and the opinion, often held by alpinists, that among the alpine top performances they cannot differentiate between award-worthy and not-worthy performances.

Auer was awarded the Paul Preuss Prize in 2016 and was an honorary member of the International Paul Preuss Society .

In 2018 Auer opened a new single-handed route on the 7,157-meter-high Lupghar Sar West in Pakistan. It was also the first ascent of the west face of the mountain. For this achievement he was (posthumously) awarded a Piolet d'Or in 2019.

Free solo

Again and again, Auer climbed routes free solo . In 2007 he succeeded in ascent of the route Moderne Zeiten (level of difficulty 6c +) on the Marmolada, which Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane started for the first time .

On April 29, 2007, Hansjörg Auer climbed the 37 pitches or 1220 m long route Weg durch den Fisch (level of difficulty 7b +) free solo. He had already tried the route on the Marmolada south face in the Dolomites in 2004. The day before the free solo ascent, he rappelled down the route again and memorized the key points (approx. 5 hours). He finally climbed the route in 2 hours and 50 minutes without safety. The ascent is considered a milestone in free solo climbing.

Avalanche accident in Canada

Hansjörg Auer died together with David Lama and Jess Roskelley in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Banff National Park . The rope team has been missing since April 16, 2019.

The Canadian National Park Authority assumed early on after reconnaissance flights by helicopter that the climbers had died. Due to the bad weather , the bodies of the three climbers could not be recovered until April 21, 2019. The group had already reached the summit via a new rock and ice route in the left wall area and was descending through a snow channel without ropes when they were hit and carried away by the avalanche. The height of the fall was about 800 meters. The cause of the avalanche is Wecht fracture suspected. Hansjörg Auer was buried on May 1, 2019 in the cemetery of his home community Umhausen in Tyrol.

Most significant successes

Alpine climbing

First ascents:

  • Fata Morgana ( 7c , 850 m), Jebel Misht (Oman), 2009 - together with Much Mayr
  • Silberschrei (7c, clean ), Heiligkreuzkofel - together with Thomas Scheiber
  • Vogelfrei (8b / 8b +, 14 pitches, first red point ascent), Schüsselkarspitze , 2009 - was one of the last major projects in the Wetterstein Mountains
  • First ascent of Kunyang Chhish Ost (via the southwest face), Karakoram / Pakistan, July 2013 together with Matthias Auer and Simon Anthamatten

Repetitions:

  • Svec-Gebel, With or without you (8a + / 8b), Schüsselkarspitze, 2005 - first repetition
  • Steps across the boarders - vertically into the Tao , (8a), Marmolada -Südwand, 2007 - probably the third inspection
  • El Niño (8a + / 8b), El Capitan , Yosemite Valley, 2008
  • Via della Cattefrale (8a, onsight ), Marmolada, 2009 - together with Much Mayr
  • Hallucinogen Wall (5.13+ or approx. 8a +, 16 pitches, first free ascent), Black Canyon, Colorado, April 2011

Free solo visits:

  • Don Quixote (6a +), Marmolada
  • Comici (6b), large pinnacle
  • Modern times (6c +), Marmolada
  • Path through the fish (7b +, 1220 m, 37 pitches), Marmolada, 2007
  • Loosely from the stool (6c +), Schüsselkarspitze, 2007
  • Bavarian Dream (8), Schüsselkarspitze, 2011
  • Mephisto (8), Heiligkreuzkofel, 2015

Sport climbing

First ascents:

  • Roxette (8b / 8b +), Nösslach climbing garden near Längenfeld , 2009

Repetitions:

  • Coque au vin (8b +), Zillertal , 2009
  • Freetown (8c), China Wall in the Leutasch Valley, 2009
  • Darkside (8c +), China Wall in the Leutasch Valley, 2009
  • La femme blanche (8a +, onsight), Céüse , 2009

literature

Hansjörg Auer: South face: From free solo climber to professional mountaineer. Malik - Piper Verlag , Munich 2017, ISBN 978-3-89029-480-3 .

Filmography

Web links

Commons : Hansjörg Auer  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Hansjörg Auer: South wall. From free solo climber to professional mountaineer . Malik - Piper Verlag , 2017 ( full text in the Google book search).
  2. ^ Paul Preuss Prize. International Paul Preuss Society, accessed January 14, 2018 .
  3. ↑ Little hope for mountaineers Lama and Auer faz.net from April 19, 2019
  4. ↑ Alpin.de: Piolet d'Or for Lama and Auer. In: Alpin.de. Bene Benedikt, August 4, 2019, accessed on August 6, 2019 .
  5. ↑ Hansjörg Auer writes climbing history on oetztalclimbing.com; Retrieved September 23, 2010
  6. ↑ Stephanie Geiger: No more hope for missing mountaineers in Canada in: Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung updated on April 19, 2019, accessed on May 6, 2019.
  7. ↑ Avalanche drama: Little hope for Tyrolean Lama and Auer. In: Tyrolean daily newspaper. April 18, 2019, accessed April 18, 2019 .
  8. ↑ Death of Lama, Auer and Roskelley confirmed. In: orf.at. Retrieved April 22, 2019 .
  9. ↑ Stephanie Geiger: Controversy after the tragedy on Howse Peak in: Neue Zürcher Zeitung of April 22, 2019, accessed on May 5, 2019.
  10. ↑ A moving farewell to alpine legend Hansjörg Auer. Tiroler Tageszeitung , May 1, 2019, accessed on May 2, 2019 .
  11. ↑ Hot days in Oman in climbing , May 2009, ISSN  1437-7462 , p. 16
  12. ↑ Vogelfrei im Wetterstein in Klettern , December 2009, ISSN  1437-7462 , p. 16
  13. ↑ Next bang from Hansjörg Auer on oetztalclimbing.com; Retrieved September 23, 2010
  14. ↑ Yosemite Valley 2008 on oetztalclimbing.com; Retrieved September 23, 2010
  15. ↑ climbing , July / August 2011, ISSN  1437-7462 ; P. 18
  16. ↑ Mephisto - Free Solo on bergstieg.com. Retrieved July 21, 2017.
personal data
SURNAME Auer, Hansjörg
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian climber and mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH February 18, 1984
PLACE OF BIRTH Zams , Austria
DATE OF DEATH April 16, 2019
Place of death Banff National Park , Canada