Lupghar Sar
| Lupghar Sar | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Lupghar Sar can be seen from the Hunza Valley on a clear day |
||
| height | 7200 m (or 7181 m ) | |
| location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
| Mountains | Hispar Muztagh ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 3.83 km → Momhil Sar | |
| Notch height | 730 m ↓ ( 6470 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 36 ° 20 '54 " N , 75 ° 1' 33" E | |
|
||
| First ascent | West and Central Summits: 1979; East summit still unclimbed | |
 Close up from the Hunza valley |
||
The Lupghar Sar is a 7200 m (or 7181 m ) high mountain in Pakistan .
location
_Moonrise_(25845264036).jpg)
It is the westernmost seven-thousander of the Hispar Muztagh in the Karakoram main range . Together with its southeastern neighbors Momhil Sar and Trivor , it forms the Momhil group . The Lupghar Sar is located east of the Hunza Valley at the level of the village of Gulmit .
Its name comes from the Wakhi language and means "the top of the great rock".
It ranks 105th in the list of the tallest mountains on earth and is the 37th highest mountain in Pakistan.
The Lupghar Sar has three peaks: West, Central and East. All three peaks are about the same height and lie on a long ridge. Nevertheless, the mountain from the Hunza valley appears in profile as a pointed pyramid.
Ascent history
The western summit of Lupghar Sar was first climbed on June 18, 1979 by Hans and Sepp Gloggner, members of the so-called Tegernsee expedition. The ascent route led from Gulmit up the Gharesa glacier to the foot of the south-western ridge of the mountain. They reached the summit via the southwest ridge. In 2018, Hansjörg Auer opened a new single-handed route on the 7,157-meter-high Lupghar Sar West. It was also the first ascent of the west face of the mountain.
An eight-person Japanese expedition managed to climb Lupghar Sar in the same year. Their ascent route also led over the southwest ridge. On August 4th, Tatsuo Nazuka, Yuichi Watanabe and Hitoshi Shimizu first climbed the western summit and then the central summit. There have been at least two attempts to climb the east summit. The ascent route to the east summit leads from the Momhil Glacier up to the ridge between Lupghar Sar Ost and Dut Sar .
In 1986 a Japanese expedition tried in vain to reach the saddle on the ridge. An Italian expedition also failed to climb the eastern summit in 1993.
Web links
- Map at himalaya-info.org
Individual evidence
- ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: High Asia - All mountains and main peaks above 6750 m (list of all mountains in Asia with a height of more than 6750 meters) at www.8000ers.com, as of July 22, 2012 , accessed on January 29, 2013.
- ^ A b c Hans Gloggner: Asia, Pakistan — Karakoram, Lupghar Sar West . American Alpine Journal, 1980, vol. 22nd
- ↑ Little hope for mountaineers Lama and Auer faz.net from April 19, 2019
- ↑ a b Masakatsu Doi: Asia, Pakistan — Karakoram, Lupghar Sar West and Central . American Alpine Journal, 1980, vol. 22nd
- ↑ a b Hideo Odashima: Asia, Pakistan, Lupghar Sar East Attempt . American Alpine Journal, 1987, vol. 29
- ^ A b Giacomo Scaccabarozzi: Asia, Pakistan, Lupghar Sar East Attempt and Ascents of Dut Sar and Chikkorin Sar, 1993 . American Alpine Journal, 1995, vol. 69.