Bavarian dream

Bavarian Dream is a climbing route on the south face of the Schüsselkarspitze in the border area between Austria and Germany. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful climbs in the Wetterstein Mountains and was one of the first tours in the Alpine region with difficulty "VIII" UIAA .

The tour leads through the flat wall between the south-east wall and the direct south wall and runs pretty much directly in the fall line of the pier head of the south-east wall. The entrance is by a distinctive chimney , to the left of the porch of the southeast wall. The wall height up to the confluence with the southeast wall is around 280 m. The up to 11 pitches take 4-6 hours. The key points are a small piazza that you need to secure yourself and an ascending cross passage. The descent is via the west ridge (II, III) down to the saddle in front of the west ridge tower and via abseiling points to the foot of the wall.

Josef Heinl and Albert Gilgenrainer opened the route after several days on August 10, 1980, with a lot of material, several bolts and fixed ropes, which Kurt Albert repeated in September without technical aids. The fourth ascent was made in 1981 by Stefan Beulke. In 1982, Andrea Eisenhut was the first woman to climb the route. In 2011 Hansjörg Auer climbed the Bavarian dream within an hour of free solo .

literature

• Alpine sport climbing routes VI-VIII , Bergverlag Rother , 1996
• Wetterstein: a guide for valleys, huts and mountains , Bergverlag Rother
• Alpin Magazin , October 1982 issue, pp. 49–50