Kunyang Chhish

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Kunyang Chhish
height 7852  m
location Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan )
Mountains Hispar Muztagh ( Karakoram )
Dominance 13.49 km →  Distaghil Sar
Notch height 1765 m ↓  ( 6087  m )
Coordinates 36 ° 12 ′ 0 ″  N , 75 ° 12 ′ 0 ″  E Coordinates: 36 ° 12 ′ 0 ″  N , 75 ° 12 ′ 0 ″  E
Kunyang Chhish (Karakoram)
Kunyang Chhish
First ascent on August 26, 1971 by Zygmunt Heinrich , Jan Stryczynski , Ryszard Szafirski , Andrzej Zawada
Normal way glaciated alpine tour
The Kunyang Chhish massif with main (7), west (-w), south (-s) and east peaks (-e) as well as Kunyang Chhish north (6) and Pumari Chhish (8).

The Kunyang Chhish massif with main (7), west (-w), south (-s) and east peaks (-e) as well as Kunyang Chhish north (6) and Pumari Chhish (8).

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Kunyang Chhish , Khunyang Chhish , Khiangyang Kish or Kunyang Kish is the second highest mountain in Hispar Muztagh , a mountain range of the Karakoram in Pakistan .

It is considered the 21st highest mountain in the world and the eighth highest in Pakistan. The Khiangyang Kish is located in the center of the Hispar Muztagh, north of the Hispar Glacier , southeast of the Khunyang Glacier and east of the Hunza Valley.

Surname

Notation

The Dutch couple Jenny Visser-Hooft and P. Ch. Visser explored the Hispar area in 1924 and named the glacier to the west of the mountain Kunyang Glacier . In doing so, they relied on names of the residents. In 1938, the British Michael Vivyan took the name of the glacier for the mountain. However, Eric Shipton published a map in 1939 showing the glacier as Khiang Glacier and the mountain as Khinyang Chhish . A 1960 Italian map uses the names Khnyang Chhish and Khnyang Glacier . The Swiss geologist and topographer Marcel Kurz used the term Khyang and referred to Shipton. Anders Bolinder and GO Dyhrenfurth finally established the spelling Khiangyang Kish, which was also used by the first Polish climbers in the run-up to their expedition. In 1971, they found that the term Kunyang Chhish was both the official Pakistani formulation and the only variant accepted by the locals.

meaning

The name Kunyang Chhish possibly means "hidden peak" (English: Hidden Peak - be warned against confusion with Gasherbrum I, the Hidden Peak in Baltoro Muztagh ). The Japanese mountaineer Kazuo Tobita wrote in the American Alpine Journal 2004 that the name means the corner peak in the language of the locals .

summit

Kunyang Chhish main peak

The main summit is at 7852 m. Around the main peak there are three secondary peaks in the massif, which are known as Kunyang Chhish South, West and East due to their location.

Kunyang Chhish South

The south summit is the highest secondary summit at 7620 meters, but it has only a low notch height .

Kunyang Chhish East

The 7400 meter high Kunyang Chhish East has a notch height of 240 meters, its south face was long considered one of the last problems in high altitude mountaineering. It was first climbed on July 19, 2013 by Hansjörg Auer , Matthias Auer and Simon Anthamatten.

Kunyang Chhish West

The Kunyang Chhish West (7350 m) is also known as Pyramid Peak , its notch height is 170 meters.

Kunyang Chhish North

In the north ridge of the Kunyang Chhish, the 7,108 meter high Kunyang Chhish Nord rises . Thanks to a notch height of 517 meters (500 meters is the threshold value in the Himalayas), it is an independent mountain .

Ascent history

Two unsuccessful ascent attempts in 1962 and 1965 each ended fatally. The successful first ascent was made in 1971 by Andrzej Zawada's Polish team from the south side. The only other ascent was made by the British Mark Lowe and Keith Milne on July 11, 1988 from the north-west side.

literature

  • Josef Nyka, Andrzej Paczkowski, Andrzej Zawada (eds.): “Summit storm in the Karakoram”. FA Brockhaus Verlag. Leipzig 1977.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Lech Wróblewski: About the name Kunyang Chhish. In: Josef Nyka, Andrzej Paczkowski, Andrzej Zawada (eds.): “Summit storm in the Karakoram”. FA Brockhaus Verlag. Leipzig 1977, pp. 145f.
  2. a b Kunyang Chhish East (and other peaks of the massif) at www.summitpost.org (accessed December 16, 2009)
  3. Kazuo Tobita: Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), west ridge attempt and Pt. 6,100m. In: American Alpine Journal 2004 (AAJO)  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (Accessed December 16, 2009)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.americanalpineclub.org  
  4. http://www.trax.de/kunyang-chhish-ost-hansjoerg-auer-loest-eines-der-letzt-grossen-kletterprobleme/id_65112964/index
  5. a b Eberhard Jurgalski : List of all mountains in High Asia with a height of more than 6750 meters, www.8000ers.com (accessed on December 16, 2009)
  6. Andrew Wingfield: Kunyang Chhish, Hispar. In American Alpine Journal 1989, p. 261 (Fig. On p. 260), AAJO  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (Accessed December 16, 2009)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.americanalpineclub.org