Christoph Hainz

Christoph Hainz (born July 23, 1962 in Mühlwald ) is a South Tyrolean extreme mountaineer .

Life

Hainz has been a certified mountain and ski guide since 1990 , has been part of the South Tyrolean mountain and ski guide training team since 1998, and has been a sport climbing and canyoning instructor since 1999. From 1995 to 2011 he lived with his then wife Claudia in Reischach , South Tyrol. Since 2011 he has lived in Nasen , also in South Tyrol. He has a son and a daughter.

Although he only began to take a serious interest in the mountains at the age of 20, Christoph Hainz has carried out over 2000 mountain tours so far, climbed routes up to grade X / X + , mixed routes up to grade M13 and also mastered numerous alpine routes up to 10th level of difficulty as well the Eiger north face free solo in 4.5 hours. His special achievements also include the fastest solo ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia in 9 hours and the first ascent of the Shivling North Pillar together with Hans Kammerlander in India. He climbed the Superdirettissima on the north face of the Großer Zinne solo in 8 hours in winter. As a sport climber he was in numerous countries such as B. Australia, the USA, South America, Canada, Switzerland, France, Spain, Italy, Jordan, Morocco, South Africa, Austria and Slovenia on the way. He won seven times in a row at national and international mountain guide championships. Together with the Swiss Roger Schäli , he opened a new route in the Eiger north face - Magic Mushroom - with 21 pitches, 600 meters of climbing and the rating 7c. In the Dolomites he opened about 40 first ascents up to difficulty level X.

Special alpine achievements

This article or section needs to be revised: list ends 2006, but before that it is overcomplete. WP is the wrong platform for keeping a tour list up to date. Tighten.
Please help to improve it , and then remove this flag.

• 1987 First ascent of the "Waldepfeiler" Mur des Pisciadu (VI + / VII-)
• 1988 Winter ascent of the "Via Italia 61" Piz Ciavazes (V / A2)

Winter ascent of the "Kofler-Mutschlechner" Gardenaccia (VII-)

• 1989 Winter ascent of the "Messner" Kreuzkofel central pillar (VII +)

Eiger north face

First ascent "Geierwally" Geierwand / Höhlensteintal (VIII)

• 1990 First ascent: "Geierkralle" Geierwand / Höhlensteintal (VIII +)

First ascent: "Elefantenohr" Murfreidspitze / Sella (VIII- / VIII)

First ascent: "It must be fun" Murfreidspitze (VII)

First ascent: "Sorcerer's Apprentice" Cima Scotoni SW-Wand / Fanis (IX)

First ascent: "Claudia's nightmare" Unterebenkofel / Sextener (VII-)

First ascent: "Hair in the ass" Piz Miara pre-summit / Sella (VIII +)

• 1991 First ascent: "Geierhochzeit" Geierwand / Höhlensteintal (VII-)

First ascent: "Hexenbeisser" Hoher Zwölfer , Sextener (VIII A2)

First ascent: "No rest of longing" Civetta NW wall (VIII-)

Variant to the Palfrader route / Geierwand (VI +)

1. Repetition of the "Claudio Barbier Memorial Path " Great Zinne -North Face (IX-)

"Salathe" at El Capitan ( Yosemite )

• 1992 " Weg durch den Fisch " ( Marmolada -Südwand) on sight (IX-IX) in 11 hours

1st free ascent "Meyer-Schliessler" Peitlerkofel (VIII-)

1st free ascent "Molin" Hoher Zwölfer, Sextener (VIII)

• 1993 Winter ascent of the Matterhorn north face

First ascent "Zombie" Cima del Lago Fanis (VII +)

First ascent of the Shivling direct north pillar with Hans Kammerlander (VII / WI4)

• 1994 Solo ascent "Via Franco-Argentina" on Fitz Roy / Patagonia (VIII / A2) in 9 hours from the base camp

First ascent "Friedl Mutschlechner and Carlo Grossrubatscher-Gedächtnisweg" Kreuzkofel (IX-)

First ascent "On the rocks, you monkeys" Kreuzkofel (VIII)

"Maestri-Route" 1st free ascent of Rotwand / Rosengarten (VIII +)

• 1995 First ascent "Ride with the camel" Jebel Rum / Jordan (VIII)
• 1996 First ascent of "The Phantom of the Peaks" Great Pinnacle North Face (IX +)

First ascent "Südtiroler Profil" in Ulumertorsuaq / Greenland (IX)

• 1997 Solo winter ascent of the Superdirettissima “Sachsenweg” on the Große-Zinne-Nordwand (A2 / A3) in 8 hours
• 1998 First ascent of the "Alpenliebe" western pinnacle north face (IX)
• 1999 Hochtobleisfall in Rein in Taufers (WI- / 7-)

Repetition "Highlander" Gasteinertal (M8 + / WI6)

1st winter ascent of the "Claudio-Barbier-Gedächtnisweg" Great Zinne north face (IX-)

• 2000 First ascent "Ötzi meets Yeti" Kleine Zinne (VIII +)

Repetition of the "Symphonie de libertè" in the north face of the Eiger / Geneva pillar (X-)

First ascent of the mixed route "Pustertaler Halbgefrorenes" Rein in Taufers (VIII- / WI6 / M4)

First ascent of the mixed route "Zapfenlos" in Rein in Taufers (VIII- / WI6 / M3)

• 2001 First ascent of "Beer drinking" Braies / South Tyrol (WI5 / M9)

First ascent of "Rondo Veneziano" Torre Venezia Southern Civetta (IX-)

First ascent "Egg of Columbus" Marmolada south face (VII / A3)

• 2002 First ascent of the “Moulin Rouge” on the Rotwand / Rosengarten in June with partner Oswald Celva (IX-), first red point ascent on September 14th.
• 2003 1st repetition of "Fly in the wind" (M 10), currently the most difficult mixed route in South Tyrol on January 14th (first ascent in 2002 by Kurt Astner )

Eiger north face single-handedly on March 24th via the Heckmair route in just 4½ hours

• 2004 First ascent of "Donnafugata" at Torre Trieste (7a, A2 or 8a)
• 2005 First ascent of the mixed route "Misch ich fix", Höhlensteintal (M10 +)
• 2006 First ascent of the 18- pitch route "Tartarugo" on Asta nunaat East Greenland (7b, A2)

Book publication

• Christoph Hainz: Exit into the vertical , BLV-Verlag, Munich 2005. ISBN 3-405-16988-7 .
• Christoph Hainz / Jochen Hemmleb: Only the mountain is my boss. The life of the South Tyrolean extreme climber and mountain guide , Tyrolia-Verlag, Innsbruck 2019. ISBN 978-3-7022-3753-0 .

Web links

• The homepage of Christoph Hainz
• Literature by and about Christoph Hainz in the catalog of the German National Library

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Mixed M13 at the age of 46. Retrieved December 13, 2014 . 
2. ↑ Christoph Hainz, Successes. Retrieved December 13, 2014 .