Roger Schäli

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Roger Schäli (born August 8, 1978 in Sörenberg ) is a Swiss mountaineer .

Life

Schäli spent his childhood and school days in Sörenberg in Lucerne. There he had his first experiences in the mountains. After completing his training as a carpenter , he graduated as a mountain guide in 2001 .

In 2002, together with Bruno Hasler and Stephan Harvey, he managed the first ascent of the Arwa-Spire central summit over the route "Fior di Vite" and the Arwa-Spire western summit. For these achievements, they were nominated for the Piolet d'Or in 2002. In March 2006, Schäli completed the Patagonia trilogy of Cerro Torre , Cerro Stanhart and Torre Egger . In 2008 he climbed the six big north faces of the Alps ( Eiger , Matterhorn , Grandes Jorasses , Große Zinne , Piz Badile and Dru ) within the first six weeks of the year and thus achieved a new record.

In August 2010 he climbed the spectacular Tsavagattaq in East Greenland to great media coverage in Switzerland .

He conquered the Eiger for the 50th time in his career in 2019.

First ascents

mountain country route Co-climber date
Arwa Spire Central India Fior di vite Hasler, Harvey May 2002
Arwa Spire West India Capsico Hasler, Harvey May 2002
Jungfrau north face Switzerland Weber / Schäli route Weber
Torre Trieste Italy Donnafugata Hainz August 2004
Eiger north face Switzerland Magic mushroom Hainz September 2007
Eiger north face Switzerland John Harlin Direttissima Jasper October 2010
Eiger south face Switzerland Ice cream couloir Jasper
Gstellihorn Switzerland Desperados -
Morgenberghorn Switzerland Duodess -
Schwändelifluh Switzerland Jaegermeister bird
Reversible sticks Switzerland Troy Iff, Pitelka
Mürrenfall Switzerland Redline Leveler
Staldenfluh Switzerland Fly Iff, Pitelka
Undercutting Switzerland Come on baby Hunger bunch
Taghia Morocco La Mano del Maroc Hainz May 2005
Wetterstein Mountains Austria Black Beauty Hainz , Kreuzeder
Asta Nunaat Greenland Tartaruga Hainz , Fichtner
Tsavagattaq Greenland Big Wall (northeast) Gietl, Kopp, Ulrich
Icefall near Gudvangen Norway Fossil monster Jasper February 2009
Aguja Poincenot Argentina Feel strong but not immortal Gietl December 2009
Staldeflue Switzerland FLY Alexander Megos June 2014
Devils Paw United States Black Roses Gietl May 2015

Honors

Roger Schäli has received the following honors and prizes

  • 3rd place in the Swiss Mountain Guide Climbing Championships 2001
  • 9th place Ice Climbing World Championships 2004
  • 3rd place Int. Mountain Guide Climbing Championship 2004
  • 3rd place Swiss Championships ice bouldering 2005
  • 1st place Int. Mountain Guide Climbing Championship 2006
  • Nomination Piolet d'or in Paris 2002
  • Award “Silla Ghedina Appollonio Menardi”, Italy 2005

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Dossier. Roger Schaeli ( Memento from February 3, 2013 in the Internet Archive )
  2. ↑ a b Modesty despite top alpine performance - Roger Schäli , accessed on May 10, 2010 (archive)
  3. ↑ Blogging from the Big Wall. Outdoor blog from July 12, 2010.
  4. ↑ Samuel Tanner: He has to come through this wall. In: NZZ am Sunday , September 15, 2019, p. 43.
  5. ^ Eiger north face, portrait: Roger Schäli In: Focus Online . Retrieved May 2, 2012
personal data
SURNAME Schäli, Roger
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Schaeli, Roger
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH August 8, 1978
PLACE OF BIRTH Sörenberg