Toni Egger

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Toni Egger (born September 12, 1926 in Siebeneich ; † February 2, 1959 at Cerro Torre , Argentina ) was an Austrian climber and mountaineer .

Life

Toni Egger became known through his death while attempting to climb Cerro Torre ( Patagonia ) for the first time, together with Cesare Maestri . He was probably hit by an ice avalanche that cut his rope. With him, the camera also disappeared, which, according to Maestri, contained the summit photo, which should have served as evidence of the summit's success. Toni Egger's rope partner Maestri survived.

After Egger's death, a sub-peak of Cerro Torre was named after him. The 2685 meter high Torre Egger is, like the Cerro Torre, one of the most difficult peaks in the world. He is also the namesake of the Eggerturm, a rock tower west of the summit of the Seekofel in the Lienz Dolomites .

Important ventures

  • 1954: Ascent of the north faces of the Westlicher Zinne and the Großer Zinne in one day (11 hours).
  • 1957: Participant in the Austrian Cordilleras Expedition . First ascent of Jirishanca (6,126 m).
  • 1959: First attempt to climb Cerro Torre with Cesare Maestri.

First ascents

  • 1951: Red Tower north face, Lienz Dolomites
  • 1951: Cellar tower north face, Carnic Alps
  • 1952: Laserzwand south wall chimney, Lienz Dolomites
  • 1953: Laserzwand-Direct South Face, Lienz Dolomites
  • 1954: Laserz north face, Lienz Dolomites
  • 1955: Kleine Zinne -South Face, Sexten Dolomites
  • 1956: Punta Ombretta - south pillar, Dolomites
  • 1957: Jirishanca , Cordillera Huayhuash
  • 1958: Patteriol -Südostpfeiler, Verwall group
  • 1958: Cima Bois south-west edge, Dolomites

Web links

  • Personal folder on Toni Egger (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)

Footnotes

  1. ^ Rolando Garibotti: A mountain unveiled. A revealing analysis of Cerro Torre's tallest tale. In: American Alpine Journal , vol. 2004, ISBN 0-930410-95-5 , pp. 138–155, here p. 154.