Snowy nock

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Snowy nock
Snowy Nock from the north, to the left of the summit in the ridge course initially P.3203, then Fernerköpfl, Frauenköpfl and Magerstein

Snowy Nock from the north, to the left of the summit in the ridge course initially P.3203, then Fernerköpfl, Frauenköpfl and Magerstein

height 3358  m slm
location South Tyrol , Italy
Mountains Rieserferner Group
Dominance 4.2 km →  Hochgall
Notch height 544 m ↓  Antholzer Scharte
Coordinates 46 ° 54 '20 "  N , 12 ° 5' 4"  E Coordinates: 46 ° 54 '20 "  N , 12 ° 5' 4"  E
Schneebiger Nock (South Tyrol)
Snowy nock
First ascent October 6, 1866 by Archduke Rainer of Austria, Count Heinrich Wurmbrand, mountain guide Georg Auer, Johann Oberarzbacher from Rein and Georg Weiss, innkeeper
Normal way from the Kasseler Hütte over the north ridge

The Schneebige Nock ( Monte Nevoso in Italian ), also known as the Ruthnerhorn in old literature , is at 3358  m the second highest mountain in the Rieserferner Group , a mountain range in the western part of the Hohe Tauern, after the Hochgall . The mountain is located in the Italian province of South Tyrol in the Rieserferner-Ahrn Nature Park ( Parco Naturale Vedrette di Ries-Aurina ). It was first climbed on October 6, 1866 by Archduke Rainer Ferdinand of Austria , Count Heinrich Wurmbrand and the mountain guides Georg Auer and Johann Oberarzbacher from Rein in Taufers and Georg Weiss, innkeeper from St. Johann in Ahrntal . Today the Schneebige Nock can be reached from the northeastern Kasseler Hütte (also Hochgallhütte) or from the south from the Rieserfernerhütte and, due to its distinctive pyramid shape and pronounced ridges, it is an often-visited panoramic mountain.

Location and surroundings

The Nock lies in front of the Rieserferner main ridge to the north and is surrounded by glaciers that are rapidly shrinking to the north and east . In the north lies the Schneebiger-Nock-Ferner ( Vedretta di Monte Nevoso ), in the east the western Rieserferner extends to just below the southeast ridge. A former small glacier in the south has melted since the middle of the 19th century due to climatic changes . Neighboring the Schneebigen Nock along the southeast ridge are the Fernerköpfl , the Frauenköpfl ( 3251  m ) and the 3273  m high Magerstein . A little off the beaten track along the northwest ridge, the Gatternock rises at 2888  m . The Antholz Valley runs southeast of the Schneebigen Nock, the Reintal to the northwest and the Bachertal ( Val del Rio ), a branch of the Reintal , to the northeast . Important places in the north are Rein (Riva), about 5 km as the crow flies, and Antholz-Mittertal is also 5 km to the south .

geology

From a geological point of view, the Rieserferner Group lies in the so-called Old Gneiss zone , an area east of the Eisack valley that also includes the Rieserferner Pluton . The Vedrette main ridge to Magerstein Fernerköpfl and is of medium to fine-grained Tonalit which here in large thickness is present , is formed. The tonalite has foliation and therefore takes on a gneiss-like appearance. This hard plutonite is responsible for the height of the mountains due to its extensive resistance to erosion.

The gneisses of the Altes Dachs on the Schneebigen Nock, which belong to the Oberostalpin, are polymetamorphic . During the Variscan mountain formation , their parent rocks were amphibolite facially deformed and then later again overprinted by the alpine metamorphosis. The contact between the gneiss and the underlying tonalite is relatively steep on the Fernerköpfl, but then flattens out noticeably below the snowy Nocks.

Ascent history

In autumn 1866, on the occasion of his stay in the Hohe Tauern, during which the Großglockner was also being climbed, Rainer Ferdinand of Austria also wanted to undertake a first ascent. The previously unclimbed Schneebige Nock, also called Ruthnerhorn (after Anton von Ruthner ) by Karl von Sonklar , was ideal . The group was next to the Archduke nor of the kk Major Count Heinrich Wurmbrand and the two mountain guides Georg Weiss and Johann Arzbacher from pure. The innkeeper of Sankt Johann from Reintal joined them, presumably as porter. They set out from Rein at daybreak and initially headed east through the Bachertal. Via the somewhat icy north-west ridge you reached the firn-covered summit after a good 5 hours using crampons and climbing rope . According to literature, Paul Grohmann is said to have reached the summit second. On September 16, 1875, he went up the Archduke's path, but for the descent he chose today's normal route over the north ridge. As early as 1871 a surveying officer from the Imperial and Royal Military Geography Institute in Vienna reached the notch between the Schneebigen Nock and the Gatternock. Johann Stüdl from Prague and Reinhold Seyerlen from Stuttgart managed the first direct ascent over the western Rieserferner , led by Hans Ausserhofer from Rein on July 31, 1877.

Tourist development

Southeast ridge of the Schneebigen Nock

Since 1877 there has been a refuge on the north-facing slope at an altitude of 2276 meters , which was expanded in 1910 to become the Kasseler Hütte ( Rifugio Roma alla Vedrette di Ries ). Another possible starting point is the Rieserfernerhütte ( Rifugio Forcella Valfredda ) to the south at 2791  m . This hut, built in 1980, replaced the former Fürth hut built in 1902 . The normal route leads from the Hochgallhütte in a southerly direction with block climbing and glacier contact in 3 to 4 hours over the north ridge. The glacier passage is often aperitif in midsummer (bare ice without snow cover). The difficulty is UIAA I . The variant over the northeast ridge is a little more difficult, here difficulties up to UIAA II + with crumbling rock are to be overcome. The route over the southeast ridge is only slightly more difficult, with the key point being insured as a via ferrata .

Literature and map

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Raimund von Klebelsberg: Geologie von Tirol , Berlin 1935, pp. 405 ff.
  2. ^ Yearbook of the Austrian Alpine Club , Volume III, 1867, Vienna 1867, p. 337
  3. ^ Carl Diener in: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 118 f.
  4. ↑ Helmut Dumler: Area Guide South Tyrol 3 , Bergverlag Rudolf Rother , Munich 1987, p. 381

Web links

Commons : Schneebiger Nock  - Collection of images, videos and audio files