Batista Vinatzer

Batista Vinatzer, the first sitting from the left, with the co-founders of the Val Gardena section of the CAI-Alpenverein Südtirol.

Giuani Batista Vinatzer , also Johann Baptist Vinatzer , Hans Vinatzer or Batista Vinazer de Val (born February 24, 1912 in Ortisei in Val Gardena ; † November 3, 1993 ibid), was a mountaineer from Val Gardena .

Life

Vinatzer, not to be confused with the hunter and first to climb the Furchetta, Johann Baptist Vinatzer, came from a farming family and, like many of his peers, began an apprenticeship as a sculptor in the village. However, he was passionate about mountaineering from an early age, which at the time was not well respected either by society or by the clergy. So, as he himself said, he had to hide the rope in his rucksack when he went through the village.

Already in the early 30s he achieved astonishing mountaineering performance, which he also often performed barefoot due to lack of money and with extremely economical use of rock hooks . Therefore, Vinatzer is considered to be the forerunner of free climbing . Nevertheless, due to his reticence and withdrawn way of life, he initially remained little known internationally. Only after a failed attempt to repeat it in 1949 on the south face of Punta Rocca by Italian alpinists did the mountaineering scene become aware of Vinatzer's ascent of the 1930s. Reinhold Messner and Erich Abram counted him among the greatest alpine mountaineers of his time.

Even in later years, Vinatzer, who had been a climbing instructor for the Club Alpino Italiano since 1935 and occasionally wood sculptor , remained active in mountain sports. He was a ski instructor and head of the ski school of Ortisei . In 1954 he was co-founder of the climbing guild of the Catores in Val Gardena.

On July 30, 2001 Adam Holzknecht and Diego Zanesco climbed five mountain routes of Vinatzers in one day: Marmolada south face, north face of Furchetta, north face crack of Stevia, third Sella tower and the southwest face intersection of Piz Ciavazes .

First ascents

• October 18, 1931 with Vinzenz Peristi left direct south wall of the Steviola, one of the towers in front of the Stevia .
• August 8, 1932 with Johann Rifesser north face of the Furchetta (named after the experiments of Emil Solleder and Hans Dülfer Dülferkanzel , today Vinatzerweg )
• August 21, 1933 with Luis Rifesser north wall of the toboggan healing peak in the Sella group
• September 4, 1933 with Vinzenz Peristi Sass Fosch in Vallunga (Stevia)
• September 8, 1933 with Vinzenz Peristi North wall tear of the Stevia
• July 1, 1934 with Luis Piazza Westriss on Piz Ciavazes
• 1934 with Luis Rifesser intersection of the southwest face on Piz Ciavazes
• August 1934 with Vinzenz Peristi right Vinatzerriss on Sas de Mesdì in the Geisler peaks
• June 23, 1935 with Vinzenz Peristi west wall of the Third Sella Tower
• July 1935 with Vinzenz Peristi direct south wall chimneys of the Stabelerturm in the rose garden
• July 26, 1935 with Vinzenz Peristi directly north-west face of the Rosengartenspitze
• September 9, 1935 with Vinzenz Peristi southeast face of Mugoni southern tip in the rose garden
• August 30, 1936 with Ruggero Bonatta on the west-south-west edge of Piz Ciavazes
• 2nd and 3rd September 1936 with Ettore Castiglioni south face of the Marmolada to Punta Rocca

bibliography

• Nadia Chiocchetti: Nosta Jent. Persones y personalités dla Ladinia. Union Generela di Ladins dles Dolomites. Fotolito Longo (no year), texts in Ladin Dolomitan with a summary in German and Italian, ISBN 88-901703-4-4
• Hanspaul Menara and Hannsjörg Hager: Mountains and mountaineers. Alpine history of South Tyrol. Athesia, Bozen 1994, ISBN 88-7014-809-2
• Paula Moroder: Batista Vinatzer de Val . In: Union di Ladins de Gherdëina, Calënder de Gherdëina 1979 , Ortisei in Val Gardena, pp. 67–71 (Ladin).
• (Franz) Runggaldier: N lecort a bera Batista Vinatzer de Val . Union di Ladins de Gherdëina, Calënder de Gherdëina 1995 , Ortisei in Gröden, pp. 108–116 (Ladin).
• Florian Trojer: Batista Vinatzer - King of free climbing . In: AVS-Mitteilungen . December 2012, pp. 44–45

Web links

• Personal folder for Batista Vinatzer (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Moritz y cumpanies: 5 vies de Batista Vinatzer de Val ta Seul Tues. Union di Ladins de Gherdeina, Calënder de Gherdëina 2002 , Ortisei in Val Gardena, pp. 216–217 (Ladin)