Lyskamm from the Dufourspitze
|location||Border Canton Valais , Switzerland / Aosta Valley , Italy|
|Dominance||2.9 km → Zumsteinspitze|
|Notch height||381 m ↓ Lisjoch|
|Coordinates , ( CH )|
|First ascent||August 19, 1861 by a major expedition|
|Normal way||over east or west ridge|
The Liskamm (formerly also written Lyskamm ) is a mountain in the Valais Alps east of the Matterhorn and west of the Monte Rosa group . The huge, several kilometers long ridge has its highest points in the east (4533 m) and in the lower west summit (4479 m), the distance between the two peaks is over a kilometer. The summit ridge crowns the almost 1000 m high, ice-armored north-east wall, the showpiece of the Gornergrat (3110 m), the terminus of the Gornergratbahn .
On the south side, the summit ridge rises above the Lys glacier with a rock face up to 500 m high, which is severely torn and extends far down into the Gressoney valley.
The first ascent dates on August 19, 1861 by William Edward Hall , J. F. Hardy, JA Hudson, C. H. Pilkington, A. C. Ramsay, T. Rennison, F. Sibson and R. M. Stephenson under the guidance of Franz Josef Lochmatter , Jean-Pierre Cachat , Karl Mr., Stefan Zumtaugwald, Peter Perren and the carrier Josef-Marie Perren .
The normal climbs take place over the ridges:
- from Lisjoch (4152 m) over the east ridge to the east summit
- over the south ridge to the east summit
- from Felikjoch (4063 m) over the southwest ridge to the west summit and further over the long ridge to the east summit
These climbs over the ridge are technically not particularly difficult, but rather long and dangerous, as the ridge is often heavily overgrown . Quite a few mountaineers have already died here due to the broken Wechten, which has earned the Liskamm the nickname “man-eater”.
In 1921 the Liskamm became a film set when Arnold Fanck shot his first mountain film Im Kampf mit dem Berge with Hannes Schneider and Ilse Rohde . Sepp Allgeier and Fanck themselves stood behind the camera. Paul Hindemith wrote music for this (silent) film - under the pseudonym Paul Merano.
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps . 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .
- Michael Waeber: Valais Alps. Area guide for hikers, mountaineers and climbers. The most popular climbs to all important peaks with descriptions of all recommended ski tours . 11th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-2416-X .