Hanspeter Eisendle

Hanspeter Eisendle (born November 8, 1956 in Sterzing , South Tyrol , Italy ) is a professional mountain guide . In his career, the mountaineer has undertaken numerous tours in the Alps , the Himalayas , Patagonia , the Yosemite National Park , but also in Oman . In addition, there are some first ascent and solo ascent, mainly in the local Dolomites . He is married and has three children.

Alpine biography

In 1980 Eisendle was able to take and pass the mountain guide exam. Two years later he was invited by Reinhold Messner to an expedition on Cho Oyu , but the winter ascent to the 8188  m high mountain failed. An attempt on Dhaulagiri ( 8167  m ) also failed in 1984. After that, Eisendle shifted his focus more to (alpine) sport climbing in the Alps. In 1986 he traveled to the United States to the Yosemite National Park climbing center. Here he climbed the nose on El Capitan in eleven hours. In 1989 he and Hans Kammerlander successfully climbed Aguja Poincenot ( 3002  m ) in Patagonia . Two years later he again climbed the north faces of Ortler ( 3905  m ) and Großer Zinne ( 2999  m ) with Kammerlander in one day . They covered the 247 kilometers in between by racing bike . Further climbing ventures took him to Sweden and Norway in 1995 and to the High Tatras in Poland in 1999 . In 2000, Messner went to the Himalayas again, this time to Nanga Parbat ( 8125  m ). The attempt to climb the summit via the north face of Diamir failed, but they were the first to succeed in climbing the face; they reached an altitude of ( 7500  m ).

Bone find

Hanspeter Eisendle was the mountaineer who found a bone on July 26, 2000 at the foot of the Diamirwand at an altitude of about 4,300  m . This is a man's right fibula. According to an investigation from the beginning of 2004, it most likely came from Reinhold Messner's brother Günther Messner , who died during the Sigi Löw memorial expedition to Nanga Parbat on June 29, 1970 under circumstances that have not yet been clarified.

Climbing successes

mountain	wall	route	Degree	annotation
Second Sella tower		Mirage	VII–	First ascent
Gold cap	South wall	Vitus dance	VI +	First ascent
Piz Ciavazes		Shit Hubert	VI +, A2	First ascent
Rear white tip		Direct north face	IV +, ice 70 °	First ascent
Meisule's Towers		Menhir	X	First ascent
Speaking stone		Purzigogl	X	First ascent
Small pinnacle	South wall	Yellow brick wall	9–	Onsight
Cinque Torri		Telefono Azzurro	9+	Onsight
Meisule's Towers		Bird free	9–	Red dot
Marmolada	South wall	Way through the fish	8+	Red dot
Piramide Armani		il canto del Cigno	8+	Red dot
Great pinnacle	North face	Hasse-Brandler	8+	Red dot

Web links

• CV Hanspeter Eisendle on his website
• Interview with Hanspeter Eisendle on bergundstieg .at (PDF file; 200 kB)
• Personal folder for Hanspeter Eisendle (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)

Individual evidence

1. ^ Ralf Peter Märtin: Operation Nanga Parbat . In: Die Zeit, 33/2000 (accessed on January 22, 2009)