Jasemba
| Jasemba - Nangpai Gosum I. | ||
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 The Jasemba is the prominent point on the left of the ridge below the Cho Oyu |
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| height | 7350 m | |
| location | Solukhumbu District ( Nepal ), Tibet ( PR China ) |
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| Mountains | Mahalangur Himal ( Himalaya ) | |
| Dominance | 5.09 km → Cho Oyu | |
| Notch height | 426 m ↓ ( 6924 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 28 ° 4 '25 " N , 86 ° 36' 52" E | |
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| First ascent | October 12, 1986 by Katsushi Emura, Yukitoshi Endo, Katsuo Matsuki and Yoshihiro Shikoda | |
The Jasemba (officially called Pasang Lhamu Chuli , but also Cho Aui , Nangpai Gosum I , Jasamba or Jasemba Peak ) is a 7,350 m high mountain on the Chinese - Nepalese border in the Himalayas .
It is located in the Solo Khumbu area and is the main peak of the Nangpai Gosum massif , an extension of the eight-thousander Cho Oyu .
The name Pasang Lhamu Chuli is reminiscent of the first Nepalese woman to climb Mount Everest . However, she died on the descent in 1993. In her honor, the mountain was given its name on the third anniversary of her death and was made accessible for ascents.
The area around the Jasemba is of cultural and historical importance, as the Nangpa La is located in the immediate vicinity , a 5716 meter high pass that has been used as a transition from China to Nepal since time immemorial. The Nangpa La is one of the highest trading routes in the Himalayas.
Ascension story
The mountain was first climbed on October 12, 1986 by a Japanese expedition. Just two days after Katsushi Emura , Yukitoshi Endo , Katsuo Matsuki and Yoshihiro Shikoda , 6 other members of the expedition were on the summit. The government has issued permits for an ascent from the Nepalese side since 1995. From this side, the mountain was first discovered in 1996 under Sirdar Ang Phurba Sherpa , mountain guide and director of Ang Rita Trek & Expedition P.Ltd. can be climbed via the west ridge. A French expedition also reached the summit. The Slovenians made the first ascent on the south side in 2004.
Hans Kammerlander's attempts to climb it
In the German-speaking mountaineering scene, the Jasemba became known primarily through the efforts of Hans Kammerlander to attempt his supposed first ascent. As part of an exploration trip, Hans Kammerlander saw the mountain for the first time in May 2004 and was enthusiastic about its magnificence: “A mountain of perfectly shaped beauty, towering steeply, free-standing, endless, icy flanks on all sides and - facing south - a mighty one Pillar that rises straight to the sky, a great challenge! ”The joy of a permit to climb the allegedly long-blocked seven-thousander was great. A first attempt in 2005 together with Luis Brugger and Karl Unterkircher had to be stopped 400 meters below the summit due to adverse weather conditions and extreme danger of avalanches. The summit was not reached in 2006 either, when Hans Kammerlander's only rope companion Luis Brugger fell fatally, and his body has not yet been found. In May 2007, Kammerlander and his new companion Karl Unterkircher finally reached the summit. On the descent, there was almost another catastrophe, as an avalanche swept away some fixed ropes . Only by daring abseiling could both of them save themselves.
Hans Kammerlander assures to this day that he did not know anything about the previous ascent, although he stated on his homepage until May 2005 that, according to the Himalayan statistician Elizabeth Hawley from Kathmandu , the summit has probably already been climbed once from the Chinese north side, possibly but without the appropriate authorization. Today Hans Kammerlander claims that he received the approval for the Jasemba in 2007 "expressly as the first ascent". Only after returning from his successful ascent in 2007 did he find out about a Slovenian expedition from 2004 which, according to Elizabeth Hawley's Himalayan Database, also reached the summit, apart from the first ascent of other ridges and walls decades ago. Hans Kammerlander argues that he did see photos of the summit ridge from the Slovenes, but none of the summit itself. His most serious allegation, however, concerns the Himalayan expert Elizabeth Hawley herself, to whom he paid a visit after his ascent in 2007 and after his Nothing about the 2004 Slovenian expedition. However, in the American Alpine Journal's report, Elizabeth Hawley is noted as author of the report on the successful Slovenian ascent.
South wall
From October 25 to 29, 2009, the three Swiss from Zermatt, Simon and Samuel Anthamatten and Michael Lerjen, managed the first ascent of the Jasemba south face. They called their alpine-style route Hook or Crook, difficulty: (VI, 1550 m, 90 °, M5).
Web links
- Nangpai Gosum, China / Nepal on Peakbagger.com (English)
- A picture from Jasembakammerlander.com
- Video of Karl Unterkirchner and Hans Kammerlander's ascent of Jasemba 2007 YouTube.com
Individual evidence
- ↑ Michel Zalio: Pasang Lhamu Peak, Second Official Ascent. In: American Alpine Journal 1997, page 295 (AAJO) , accessed November 7, 2012.
- ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski with permission from the Himalayan Database
- ↑ Ang Rita Trek & Expedition Program ( Memento of the original from May 11, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
- ↑ Tamotsu Ohnishi: Pasang Lhamu Chuli, West Ridge. In: American Alpine Journal 1997, pp. 294f. (AAJO) , accessed November 7, 2012.
- ↑ Elizabeth Hawley: Pasang Lhamu Chuli (Jasamba, Cho Aui) (7.351 m), attempt. In: American Alpine Journal 2005, page 391 and Urban Golob: Nangpai Gosum I new route; Dazampa Tse, first ascent. In: Ibid., P. 391f. (AAJO) , accessed November 7, 2012.
- ↑ official homepage of Hans Kammerlanders (as of May 2005)
- ↑ see ALPIN 2/2008, p. 42
- ↑ see ibid. P. 42f.
- ↑ Elizabeth Hawley: Pasang Lhamu Chuli (Jasamba, Cho Aui) (7.351 m), attempt. In: American Alpine Journal 2005, page 391 (AAJO) , accessed November 7, 2012.
- ↑ Hook or Crook at www.berghaben.com, accessed December 4, 2009
