Christophe Profit

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Christophe Profit (* 1961) is a French mountain guide and extreme mountaineer . In addition to his tours in the Himalayas and the Alps , he is considered the inventor of the "modern enchaînements ".

Alpinism career

During his military service , which he did from 1980 at the GMHM (groupe militaire de haute montagne, German high mountain group) in Chamonix , Profit , who came from Normandy , completed his mountain guide training in 1986.

In 1982 he climbed the west face of the Petit Dru ( 3733  m ) on the Directe Américaine route in three hours and ten minutes as the first solo ascent . In 1984 he climbed the entire Peuterey ridge on Mont Blanc in a winter solo trip in 32 hours and on the Freney pillar the Direttissima Bardill for the first time red dot . In 1985 he made the solo winter ascent of the north face of the Eiger in ten hours.

During an expedition to the south face of Lhotse ( 8516  m ) organized by Reinhold Messner , the participants failed due to heavy snowfall. On a night of bivouac , Profit and his partner Hans Kammerlander were almost hit by stones that broke through the tent. A year later, he and Pierre Béghin managed to climb that wall completely, but without reaching the summit.

In 1991 the two climbers completed the route started by Poland on K2 ( 8611  m ) over the north-west ridge and wall as well as the north ridge to the summit. This was the first ascent of the K2 in alpine style .

With ten successful tours through the north face of the Eiger, he has held the record on this wall since 2007 (as of January 2009).

Enchaînements

In the 1980s, some enchaînements were made by Christophe Profit. It means walking several difficult routes one after the other. In 1982, Profit linked the north faces of Les Droites ( 4000  m ), Aiguille de Talèfre ( 3726  m ) and Grandes Jorasses ( 4208  m ) single-handedly. In July 1984 he made four routes on the Mont Blanc ( 4810  m ) in one day , first over the Grand Pilier d'Angle ( Bonatti route ), then on the central Frêney pillar, the Direttissima Bardill and the classic Bonington route and to Graduation from the Innominatagrat. In the same year he climbed the four Frêney piers in one day. Also in 1984 the connection from Aiguille du Dru ( Directe Américaine ), Petites Jorasses west face ( 3650  m ) and Grandes Jorasses north face ( Linceul ) took place.

In 1985 he began enchaînements on the great north faces of the Alps in July . In 23.5 hours he climbed the north faces of the Eiger, Matterhorn ( 4478  m ) and Grandes Jorasses. He descended at the foot of the mountains and let himself be flown to the next in a helicopter . He climbed the north face of the Grandes Jorasses on the route over the Linceul . In 1987 he tried again, this time in winter. He started at the Croz pillar on the Grandes Jorasses, flew into the valley by paraglider and to the Eiger by helicopter. He completed its north face in the dark, but was unable to paraglide due to bad weather conditions. After the Matterhorn north face, the operation was completed after 42 hours.

Awards

  • Toni Gobbi Award for the greatest success of a mountain guide with a customer (ten visits with a guest through the Eiger north face) (as part of the Saint-Vincent Award for Mountain Professionals )

Individual evidence

  1. ^ A b Sylvain Jouty: Third Ice Field - The Trilogy of Alpinists . In: Daniel Anker (Ed.): Eiger - The vertical arena . 4. revised Edition. AS Verlag, Zurich 2008 (p. 166ff)
  2. ↑ Hans Kammerlander: Mountain addict . 6th edition. Piper, Munich 2001 (p. 81ff)
  3. ↑ see article w: fr: Perre Béghin in the French language Wikipedia
  4. ^ Beghin, Pierre: Solitude on K2 . In American Alpine Journal 1992 (AAJ Online)  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.americanalpineclub.org  
  5. ^ Erik Lambert: Legend guides to new milestone . 2007 at alpinist.com English, Retrieved January 26, 2009
  6. ↑ Uli Auffermann: Christophe Profit and the "Enchaînements" . In: Bergsteiger 09/2008 (p. 103)
  7. ↑ Volker Leuchsner: Prix Saint Vincent: Prices for professionals . 2008 on klettern.de ( Memento of the original from March 8, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Retrieved January 26, 2009 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.klettern.de

Web links

personal data
SURNAME Profit, Christophe
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French climber
DATE OF BIRTH 1961