Peter Aschenbrenner

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Peter Aschenbrenner , also known as " Himalaya- Peter" , (born May 6, 1902 in Ebbs , † January 25, 1998 in Kufstein ) was an Austrian alpinist and mountain sports pioneer.

Life

Peter Aschenbrenner was born in Ebbs, Tyrol , on May 6, 1902. He was a mountaineer , mountain guide and hut host of the Stripsenjochhaus . He became internationally known primarily through his Himalayan expeditions in the 1930s and 1950s, which earned him the nickname "Himalaya Peter". He built the Aschenbrenner Berghaus at 1140 m above Kufstein. In 1930 he designed the "ash burner ice ax ", which is still on sale in an improved form today. Peter Aschenbrenner died on January 25th, 1998 at the age of 96 in Kufstein. His Nanga Parbat expeditions were historically reviewed by Markus Kronthaler in 2004 and 2005.

Expeditions

Himalayan expeditions

Aschenbrenner was a member of the "German-American Himalaya Expedition" to Nanga Parbat as early as 1932, under the direction of Willy Merkl . The ascent should be via the rakhiot side. The mountaineers came within a few hundred meters of the “gate” to the summit region, the Silbersattel, but did not reach the summit. On this expedition, Peter Aschenbrenner, together with Hugo Hamberger, achieved the first ascent of Chongra Peak (6448 m) and with Herbert Kunigk that of the 7070 meter high Rakhiot Peak.

In 1934 Aschenbrenner was a member of the disastrous "second German Nanga Parbat expedition" under Willy Merkl, which claimed numerous lives. The enterprise became a national affair under the National Socialists. Further members were among others Erwin Schneider and Willi Bernard. Alfred Drexel died of pneumonia in Camp II . Altitude sickness , hurricanes and fresh snow forced Aschenbrenner and Schneider to turn back at 7895 m. Uli Wieland , Willo Welzenbach , Willy Merkl and six high porters had a fatal accident on the descent in a snow storm.

In 1953 Aschenbrenner was finally won over as mountaineering expedition leader for another Nanga Parbat expedition, where Hermann Buhl was able to conquer the summit for the first time on July 3, 1953 at around 7 p.m.

Mountaineering / climbing

Aschenbrenner made important first ascents in the Wilder Kaiser such as As the Christa Tower "Southeast edge," butcher "Aschenbrenner-gap" and Leuchsturm south wall. On September 12th and 13th, 1933, he and his younger brother Paul made a direct route on the north face of the Große Zinne on the occasion of the second ascent. The brothers succeeded as the second team on the north face of the Königspitze in 1935. In total, Aschenbrenner has climbed around 2,400 peaks, including 400 three-thousanders and 68 four-thousanders.

  • 1928 First ascent of Christaturm-Südostkante "Christakante", V / A0 ( UIAA ), 200 m, 2170 m, (Wilder Kaiser)
  • 1928 first ascent of Grundschartner-Nordkante, V + / A0 (UIAA), 900 m, 3064 m (Zillertal Alps)
  • 1928 First ascent of the Mugler north-west edge (Zillertal Alps)
  • 1929 10th inspection of the meat bank south-east face "Wießner-Rossi", V + (UIAA), 2187 m (Wilder Kaiser)
  • 1930 First ascent of the Leuchsturm south face "Alte Südwand", V + / A0 (UIAA), 300 m altitude difference, 2275 m (Wilder Kaiser)
  • 1930 First ascent of the Fleischbank east face "Nördlicher Weg", 2187 m (Wilder Kaiser)
  • 1930 First ascent of the Fleischbank east face "Aschenbrenner-Lucke", VI + / A0 (UIAA), 500 km, 2187 m (Wilder Kaiser)
  • 1931 ascent of the Mont Blanc -Brenva flank (Mooresporn), III (UIAA), 50 °, 1500 m altitude, 4807 m ( Mont Blanc area)
  • 1931 Weisshorn- Ostgrat, 4505 m (Valais Alps)
  • 1932 Participation in the German-American Nanga Parbat Expedition (Himalaya, Pakistan)
  • 1932 Participant in the Nanga Parbat expedition and first ascent of Chongra Peak , 6848 m (Himalaya, Pakistan) and first ascent of Rakhiot Peak , 7070 m (Himalaya, Pakistan)
  • 1933 First ascent of Friedrichsturm-Ostkante, III (UIAA) (Wilder Kaiser)
  • 1933 Second ascent (first ascent direct variant), Große Zinne north face "Comiciführe", VI + (UIAA), 400 m, 2998 m (Sexten Dolomites)
  • 1934 First ascent of the Travnik north face, Aschenbrenner Route V-VI (UIAA), first climbed by Peter Aschenbrenner and Tiefenbrunner in 1934.
  • 1934 participant in the Nanga Parbat expedition ascent to the Silbersattel, 7895 m (Himalaya, Pakistan)
  • 1934 ascent of southern Chongra Peak, 6400 m (Himalaya, Pakistan)
  • 1935 Second ascent of the Königspitze -Nordwand, IV (UIAA), 60 ° ice, 625 m, 3859 m (Ortler group)
  • 1937 First ascent of the Fleischbank north-west side of the "Nordwestpfeiler", IV (UIAA), 300 m (Wilder Kaiser)
  • 1937 First ascent of Äbeni Flue north face "Direkt", 750 m, 55 °, 3960 m (Bernese Alps)

Web links

credentials

  1. ↑ 100 years of the DAV Rosenheim ( Memento of the original from May 3, 2006 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (PDF file; 9.17 MB) Chapter first ascents @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.dav-rosenheim.de
  2. ↑ a b Kronthaler, World of Mountains Ascent History Nanga Parbat on the website of Markus Kronthaler .
  3. ↑ www.alpinwiki.at ( Memento of the original from January 30, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.alpinwiki.at
personal data
SURNAME Aschenbrenner, Peter
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Himalayan Peter
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Austrian mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH May 6, 1902
PLACE OF BIRTH Ebbs , Tyrol , Austria-Hungary
DATE OF DEATH January 25, 1998
Place of death Kufstein , Tyrol , Austria